ElCap Reports from June 2009

ElCap Report 6/30/09

ElCap Report 6/30/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Well the day has come for the last ElCap Report of the Season.  It has been an unusual Spring here in the Valley in regards to the weather.  But that didn’t stop climbers from reaching deep into their dreams and making them come true.  Some of the world’s greatest climbers were seen on the Captain this season, and some of the most obscure climbers you never heard of got to share the spotlight, here on the ElCap Report.  For me it is always a rewarding experience to watch my fellow climbers as they express their passion and deal with their limitations on the greatest stage in all the world.  We saw speed climbers blazing their way up the cliff and we saw crawlers going at what seemed agonizingly slow paces.  Each climber had their own goals to reach and yet they were rewarded in quite similar ways.  That is one of the great things about our sport.  We congratulate all those who came forth with the courage and commitment to strive to be their best, no matter what the outcome.

ElCap Report 6/29/09

ElCap Report 6/29/09
By Tom Evans

ElCap Report 6/28/09

ElCap Report 6/28/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Pretty damn hot here today but everyone was going up anyway.   I talked to Scott, of the NIAD team who salvaged the Koreans off the Nose yesterday…  He said when he reached them at the Great Roof they told him in broken English that they were out of water and said “we are going to die” and made the classic knife across the throat sign.  That was enough to convince the lads that they should help them out!!  They did and the Koreans were able to jug off the route and get down in time to head out today for SF and their flight home.  Hopefully the Koreans will take the lesson to heart and not let that kind of thing happen again.

ElCap Report 6/27/09

ElCap Report 6/27/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Pretty nice here today but a little on the warm side.  A lot of the regulars have headed up to the high country to escape the heat and get some fresh mosquito bites.  The Nose was pretty busy today but all above ECT as the huge Korean party in the Legs were no longer on the wall… nice!  The rest of the routes are getting done at steady, if not fast pace. 

ElCap Report 6/26/09

ElCap Report 6/26/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… splendid here today with some smoke from a so called “controlled burn” out to the west.  Kind of warm on the Big Stone too.  The day started rather poorly with Holly Beck taking a plunge short fixing on the start of the Nose route.  She decked from about 40ft and had facial cuts that produced a lot of blood, a concussion, and a possible broken arm.  Fortunately her partner, Jeff Webb, is a SAR ranger and got to her fast and called in for a rescue.  She was taken down and flown out.  Werner reported that she was very alert and her legendary ability to talk, was not altered.  We are all wishing her the best of recoveries.

ElCap Report 6/25/09

ElCap Report 6/25/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Ok, I told you… now is the time for you to get with the program and come on out.  Pick any route you want…. Zodiac?  Empty.  The Trip?  Empty.  The Nose?  It will be empty tomorrow.  Salathe?  Empty.  The big Trades are all empty.  This is it!  If not now… when?  Beautiful here today with sunny skies and light winds.  The spring season is coming to a close and I will be leaving soon… yes, that’s right… only another week or so of the ECR and you will have to suffer through a long, hot summer with no ElCap fix… Be afraid, be very afraid!  If you have enjoyed all the great pics and on the spot reporting, then don’t be afraid to pony up a few bucks through the donate button on the left.  Any amount will be greatly appreciated and will go toward making this site continue through the fall.

ElCap Report 6/24/09

ElCap Report 6/24/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… The answer is “Yes“.  Your question was, “Is the weather perfect in the Valley these days?”  The sky is as blue as Kim Schmitz’s eyes.  The wind is as calm as Elik Sloan’s yoga class.  Wherever you are… is the wrong place.  You really need to be here. But since you can’t, then you force me to be your replacement eyes and ears.  So here I am, slugging it out every day, just for you, here at the gateway of adventure… the Iconic, yet mundane… ElCap Bridge.  The view is spectacular, the company, among the best to be found anywhere, and every day is a great day, to be remembered far into the future.  Someone had to do it… so.. old, broken down, little Tommy Evans picked up the ball and is struggling forward with optimism, as he slowly dissipates into the cosmic abyss.  Sounds like something Chongo would write!!

ElCap Report 6/23/09

ElCap Report 6/23/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… splendid day here… you missed it again didn’t you?  Lots of parties topping out today, so the routes are once again needing adventurers.  The weather has reached the early summer equilibrium, so now is the time to get that route in before the sweltering days of summer descend upon the place.
We had a nice hang at the bridge and I took some nice bridge shots …. But… wouldn’t you know… I forgot to put a memory card in my camera and thus lost all the shots.  Luke… those shots didn’t come out so we need to do them again if you are around tomorrow.

ElCap Report 6/22/09

ElCap Report 6/22/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Another gorgeous day here in the Valley of Adventure!  We talked about your not being here yesterday, so I will let you off the hook today.  Still… you missed it man!  Once again climbers are getting high on the routes and thus they are getting empty fast… more room for you my dedicated reader!

ElCap Report 6/21/09

ElCap Report 6/21/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… All right… Listen up Pukes of all stripes… this was a way sweet day to be here in the Trench.  The weather was perfect… the climbing was perfect… the bridge was chocked with perfection… and where were you?
I don’t want to hear about it… if you weren’t here, then you blew another day of your life and some of you, by the laws of statistics, don’t have too many days left to blow.  So change your plans, take a break from your consumption based existence, lie to your boss, tell your friends you are going to rehab for a few weeks and by all means …. Get your sorry ass with the program, and come to the Valley of your dreams….. Yosemite.

ElCap Report 6/20/09

ElCap Report 6/20/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… yes it is true… I am back at the throttle on the ElCap Bridge, so tie in tight, check your knots, and get psyched up for the latest news, from the most important rock on the planet.  I drove all night to get here early this morning so I could have a full day at the “office”.  The Trades are pretty full and a few climbers are venturing onto, soon to be, Trade Routes.   High clouds and moderate temperatures set the stage for a great day of climbing on the Captain.

ElCap Report 6/15/09

ElCap Report 6/15/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Cloudy and on the cold side today… but no rain.  The Captain is sparsely populated now that the Korean teams have finished their routes.  The SW Face is pretty empty.  The Nose had a team going over the top and a team in the lower stove legs.  So the place is wide open to anyone with the time and the plan.  The strange spring continues. 
Today’s report is a brief one so don’t blink or you will miss it…
Today’s report…

ElCap Report 6/14/09

ElCap Report 6/14/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Wow, what a beautiful late April day we had today!  Nice, puffy clouds and intermittent sunshine make it sweet… unfortunately, the wall was nearly empty.  Two solo’s were on the starting pitches of Zodiac and OK Tony and Clay, with his son, stopped by on their way to start the Nose.  Clay’s son, Grant is just 11 but seems to have been well trained by Clay.  He did look a little concerned when I said “Son you are going to die”, the traditional good luck send off for climbers heading to ElCap.  They walked off with the two adults trying to reassure the lad that all would be well!

ElCap Report 6/13/09

ElCap Report 6/13/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Ok, so it does rain more than ten minutes in Yosemite.  The skies opened up around 12:30 pm today and it rained pretty hard but it was short in duration… short enough that I was going to poo poo it on the report.  But, around 3pm it really opened up and drenched the Captain.  However, the climbers on the SE Face continued to climb unhindered…with the exception of the Korean climbers on day 7 on LA.  They were on the third from last pitch and exposed to the elements.  They were hosed to be sure.  Still… I encourage climbers to just forget about the weather forecast and get on a route, if only just to fix a couple of pitches.  The action is getting thin on the Captain and we need replacements to head up to the front line! 

ElCap Report 6/12/09

ElCap Report 6/12/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Another killer day here in the ditch.  It was breezy and cloudy most of the day… Sweet!!  Many of the teams are getting pretty high up on the routes now and it seems that there are not many replacements.  While the forecast continues to call for 30% rain it has not happened.  These temps are making for low water consumption and higher energy levels to climb with.  Better than the weather for the usual June.  So come on out before the real summer weather arrives… you will be glad you did!

 

ElCap Report 6/11/09

ElCap Report 6/11/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Another very nice day for climbing on the Cap.  A bit windy but the right temps for free climbing on the big stone.  We still have supposed wall climbers sitting in the café waiting for the weather to have a 0% rain forecast… get over it Pukes!  Routes are being climbed every day now no matter what the chance of rain.  No more of these lame excuses dudes… WTF.. you invested hundreds of dollars in that Gortex rain gear and you lug it up the Cap just in case… so go climbing!!  Actually there are a lot of climbers on the wall now so I guess I shouldn’t complain… still it bugs me to see climbers sitting around bemoaning the weather when it is really perfect!!  If it was a normal June I guess they would be sitting around bitching about the heat!

ElCap Report 6/10/09

ElCap Report 6/10/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Brilliant (as the English like to say) climbing day here in the Trench.  Cool temps, with mostly overcast skies, make for good climbing and good photography.  This weather is far from normal and has been for weeks on end…. But that said, wall climbers are a persistent crew and not put off for long when they see a way to get the job done.  Several teams sallied forth to the big routes on the SW face of the Captain.  The Salathe still sits idle but several other routes on the face are getting some attention.  The Tourons have shown great interest in the Major Phil story and many came back today asking how his ascent was going.  More on that below.

ElCap Report 6/09/09

ElCap Report 6/9/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Sweet day here, with cool temps and no rain for a change.  The Cap was pretty busy and more teams are mounting up.  The Korean teams are doing well on the SE Face of the Captain.  The Trip and Straw teams topped out early in the day after good climbing on the routes.  We are hoping for continued good weather, as several new teams are striking out on the SW Face.

So saddle up and grab the reigns, because you are going for a ride on the Big Daddy of all the big Yosemite stones!

ElCap Report 6/08/09

ElCap Report 6/8/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… It was really nice climbing weather today… right up until 4pm when a 10 minute, tropical downpour, drenched everything in its path.  The teams on the SE Face hardly took notice but the Nose must have been pretty wet.  However, it was soon enough gone.  Still, the weather just doesn’t want it to be June and we will just have to keep dealing with it.  Zillions of Tourons continue to learn, the “real deal,” about climbing, here at the bridge, so much so that there seems to be little room for the climbers to hang out!!  But it is all good and everyone is enjoying the action on the hill.

ElCap Report 6/07/09

ElCap Report 6/07/09
By Tom Evans
Yo…. Sweet day today with no sign of rain!  It was pretty chilly but probably just right on the wall.  There were teams on the Nose but most of the action is still on the SE Face of the great rock.  The crowds were mild but several climbing friends stopped by to say hi and see what was up on the Captain.  Everyone is moving up or topping out. 
So drop what you are doing and clear your schedule because the weather is perfect and you are coming with old Tom for one more ride on the Captain.

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