ElCap Report 6/26/09

ElCap Report 6/26/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… splendid here today with some smoke from a so called “controlled burn” out to the west.  Kind of warm on the Big Stone too.  The day started rather poorly with Holly Beck taking a plunge short fixing on the start of the Nose route.  She decked from about 40ft and had facial cuts that produced a lot of blood, a concussion, and a possible broken arm.  Fortunately her partner, Jeff Webb, is a SAR ranger and got to her fast and called in for a rescue.  She was taken down and flown out.  Werner reported that she was very alert and her legendary ability to talk, was not altered.  We are all wishing her the best of recoveries.
Today’s report is brought to you by Eirk Sloan, who’s birthday is today.   With his image upgrade, via the 98 Firebird I sold him, and his new job at the MRB, he has a very bright future ahead.  Best wishes on your 35th Erik!!
Today’s report…. Hot off my computer… here in the Yosemite Café..

Waterfall route:  The vacationing couple, Ammon and Cheryl, continue to sleep in late and climb in the afternoons when the sun is on them.  Ammon climbed the water soaked pitches high on the route and was headed to the sweet, brown corner that tops the route. 
McNeeley, looking for dry ground, Water Fall Route, Upper East Side, El Capitan.

























Bad Seed:  The wall campers rousted fairly early and Kate was seen to finish a pitch mostly in the shade until the sun came on in the early afternoon.  She was sporting her very sexy, Russian aiders and managed to navigate through what looked like very confusing terrain.  They are on the move.
Kate amidst some interesting geology, Russian aiders and all.


























Trip:  Stefan Brunner, Austrian climber, who has been sending some good EC routes this season, (Shield, Nose, Zodiac) started off on the Trip via the LA, Virginia start this morning.  This is his first EC solo and he looks to be ready for some fun.
Stefan going solo on the trip.
























Mescalito:  Josh did the Molar Traverse this morning and it went smoothly for the lad.  He then lead the pitch up the wide, broken section and was about to clean it as I departed.
Josh starting the Molar Traverse.

























Josh dancing across the pendulum on the Molar Traverse.























Reticent:  Dana, Skiy and Heide did stay on LLL last night and the bags they hauled yesterday were just excess stuff not needed for the night.  Dana spent most of the late morning and early afternoon on the long, thin pitch up to where the route crosses the WEML.  The other two lounged in luxury as he fought for his life above!!
The Sky Loungers.

























Nose:  The Korean team of three did make DT last evening and were seen to continue on in the morning.  They were going slowly along and there is no chance they will make their flight on the 28th, baring a miracle.  I last saw them around 3:30pm at the ledge across from the top of the Boot Flake.
Korean leader, stickin it to the Jardine Traverse.




















Lower down a plethora of climbing teams appeared in the Legs, one of which was rumored to be a 6 person Korean team… I don’t know the particulars as the view from the bridge is not so good and they never got above the trees that block part of my view.  A two man Spanish team was fortunate to skip in front of the mass assault and were well on their way to DT as I left.  It could get ugly … 

Aquarian:  A North Carolina climber, Peyton, stopped by today on his way to the route.  He is going solo and is pretty psyched to get on it.  You may remember he and his Brother Stanley did a very nice ascent of Zodiac last year… I’ll keep an eye on him.

Blast from the Past:

Parking lot Queens, Siretza and Gabriella, were a big attraction in the woman starved C4 parking lot in the summer of 1997.  They ruled the place!!
























In other news:  The summer is fast approaching and anyone who wants to squeeze in an EC route had better do it soon.  We had a nice gathering at the bridge this afternoon with many climbers hanging around watching the teams on the Big Stone.  It was quite nice here this afternoon as the Tourons were lightly represented and I was able to get a little time hanging with the Bros.  Martin, the Dutch climber, just down from soloing Lurking Fear, came by and made burgers for lunch and hung out all afternoon.  Bask in the glory lad, bask in the glory!!  The big news of the day was, of course, our friend Holly’s situation.  If you don’t know about her climbing, then where the hell have you been?  She is one of our most prolific and enthusiastic female climbers and probably has the record for the most EC routes done by a woman, at somewhere north of 20.  Best of wishes go out to her from all here friends here at the bridge and in the climbing community at large.
So that’s the way it is for this the 26th day of June 2009.
Later Tom Evans


"Interesting topography?!"

Holy frig! Those flakes Kate hooked across on Bad Seed were frighteningly loose! Way too scary to cam, or leave anything for pro. She ran it out thirty or forty feet over that junk. It was even scary to clean - one of those big boys was wobbling in my hands.

North Carolina Climber

Hey Tom,

The NC climber is my brother, Peyton. Can't wait to follow his progress via ECR. I just wish I were out there with him getting in another el cap route! Got a call from him last night from the top of pitch 3. This is his first solo and he was looking for some morale boosters so he made a few phone calls. He was looking to get to Timbuktu by the end of day 2 (Saturday) and I think he said you'd be able to see him from then on.

You've provided us with some fantastic images of our various el cap exploits over the years and we owe you a huge thanks. You'll be getting a donation (or several) from us at some point, for sure.

All the best,

Nice hotties!! Yeeeooow. All

Nice hotties!! Yeeeooow.

All the best to Holly -- heal fast, girl.

Epic Ed


Good Report Tom.....Dammit! I spent that season in Sequoia. Ah, well....Skully


Yo That's my man stefan of the famous duo the "Stefan's" On the TRIPPY? Good work my brother, way to make the most of your trip. I wish you well!

Josh Mucci

1997 looked like a good year!

Thanks for the update. Ammon likes his late morning starts. He's on vacation! Hope Holly is feeling no pain.