ElCap Report 6/28/09

ElCap Report 6/28/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Pretty damn hot here today but everyone was going up anyway.   I talked to Scott, of the NIAD team who salvaged the Koreans off the Nose yesterday…  He said when he reached them at the Great Roof they told him in broken English that they were out of water and said “we are going to die” and made the classic knife across the throat sign.  That was enough to convince the lads that they should help them out!!  They did and the Koreans were able to jug off the route and get down in time to head out today for SF and their flight home.  Hopefully the Koreans will take the lesson to heart and not let that kind of thing happen again.

Scott also said they helped a Spanish team below who had gotten stuck inside Texas Flake and were not able to advance.  That team eventually bailed from Camp 4 late yesterday as they were running low on water.  Smart move.
BE WARNED:  THE TEMPS ARE TO BE OVER 100 DEGREES FOR THE NEXT SEVERAL DAYS… so don’t go on the wall if you are not prepared to deal with the conditions.  Especially avoid the SW Face of the Captain as the afternoons are nearly unbearable over there.
Today’s report is brought to you by Eric and Scott, heroes of El Cap who were there to help their fellow climbers when the shit went down.  Nice work men, you have our admiration and respect!!

Bad Seed:  Pete and Kate are getting near the end of the independent pitches on this route.  They were up early, to beat the heat most likely, and got a lot done while still in the morning shade.  Pete got a pitch higher in the afternoon heat and they were hauling freight was I left a bit after 3pm.
1)  Kate going to work while Pete cleans the house.



























Trip:  Solo Austrian climber, Stefan Brunner was back on the route today.  He made short work of the 5th , 6th , and 7th pitches in hot conditions this morning and afternoon.  He was leading the 8th pitch as I left and will most likely do the 9th too… the lad is getting it done in fine style under some harsh conditions.
2)  Stefan cleaning the classic 5th pitch on Tangerine Trip.



























Mescalito:  Josh did make the Bismarck Ledge for a sweet bivy last night.  I caught him leading the pitch above around 9 in the morning.  He quickly dispatched it and was leading above when I left in early afternoon…  I think he will be off late tomorrow if he has no hitches.
3)  Josh McClure, heading into the business on the Bismarck, Mescalito.



























Reticent:  The YOSAR climbing team did make it to Wino Tower last night and are comfortably installed.  Dana manned up and lead the cruxie pitch off the ledge this morning.  He looked solid all the way and made good time.  Later, as the shade came on, Skiy cleaned the pitch and lead the next one.  The are on for another night on the Tower after fixing above.
4)  Dana leaving the security of Wino Tower as Skiy and Heide indifferently reorganize.



























5)  Skiy heading off in the cool shade of the afternoon, high on the Reticent Wall.

























Nose:  The top is now clear of all teams.  Two teams came over from Sickle ledge and marched up the Stovelegs in the shimmering heat of the afternoon.  Thanh and Andy were in the lead but I think the party behind just might catch up soon and pass above DT.  They both should make ECT by late evening.  I didn’t see much wind on the route today so the suffer factor was probably pretty high.

Aquarian:  I did see Peyton, the North Carolina climber, taking a long break on Timbuktu late in the morning.  He was hydrating up and soon was back to work hauling the pitch above.  Then he lead the next pitch beneath some fierce looking overhangs and scary flakes.  He was hard at it when I departed.
6)  Peyton, swilling hard on Timbuktu.

























Blast from the Past: 
Tom Evans and Jamison Crosby chillin at Seneca Rx WVA, in 1987.





















In other news:  Lots of climbers laid up at the bridge today as the heat in the sun was oppressive.  Quite a crew hung out and swilled the day away.  Ammon and Cheryl were down from the Waterfall route and had only good things to say about their, vacation style, ascent.  Clay (Dude #1) came into day after a long absence.  Dude #2 is sick at home and will be in later.  Tomorrow lots of the monkey’s are heading up to the high country as the weather is too harsh for most climbing here.  I heard that two guys pushed Zodiac last night but I didn’t see any sign of them this morning and wonder if it really happened.  The spring season is in it’s last days now and it looks like summer is full on.  The Captain will be pretty empty in the near future and there will be little to report on… so it will be time for me to depart,  within the week.
Bridge Rats: Standing: Joey, Mich, Mason, Clay, Matt, Ammon and Amanda.  Down in front: Klaas, Eric, and Logan.























So that’s the way it is for this the 28th day of June 2009.
Keep cool and be smart… Tom


Way to go Peyton! He told me by phone last night that he majorly underestimated his water need. He's actually consuming about 2 gallons a day! He was severely dehydrated by Timbuktu and was extremely thankful to find 5 gallons on Timbuktu!! But, ever the gracious dude, he only took 3 gallons - leaving 2 for another party that might be in a similar situation.

Heard from him tonight, too (6/29) and he's at 13 and doing great. A little worried about some storm clouds over el cap, but otherwise on schedule and looking to be off in three days.

Go Pman!


Good on you NIAD, helping our own out when they needed it.

Loved the light on the 5th pitch of the Trip.

Thanks Tom



good work NIAD people!

dang, Tom, you're a badass!


Great shot's, PT.
Awesome hero shot(your past blast), too!
WooHoo! (indeed)