ElCap Report 6/27/09

ElCap Report 6/27/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Pretty nice here today but a little on the warm side.  A lot of the regulars have headed up to the high country to escape the heat and get some fresh mosquito bites.  The Nose was pretty busy today but all above ECT as the huge Korean party in the Legs were no longer on the wall… nice!  The rest of the routes are getting done at steady, if not fast pace. 

There is still time for you to get on something.  I will be out of here in a week so if you want the pics then you had better show yourself soon.
Today’s report is brought to you by Billy Russell, Yosemite Guide, who brought me some shots of the first ascent of the route Pete and Kate are presently climbing, Bad Seed.
Today’s report… right now… no shit…

Waterfall:  Ammon and Cheryl were up early and climbing with the arrival of the morning sun.  I think they knew it was time to wrap this route up and they were off in the early afternoon.
1)  Last bivy on the Waterfall route.



























2)  Getting with the program with the first sun light, Waterfall Route.




























Bad Seed:  Now established in the better rock the team is climbing on some pretty interesting features.  I hadn’t noticed any of these before shooting them on the climb.  Kate was out in front early in the day, most likely to take advantage of the cooler temps before the baking they were to get in the afternoon.
3)  Kate leading the “Time Bomb Flake” in the morning shade as Pete manages the show.

























4)  Kate leading up to the “Y” in the early afternoon.


























Mescalito:  Josh made good time today and is most likely going to bivy on the classic Bismarck ledge.

Reticent:  The SAR team is moving steadily up the route.  They put a couple of pitches behind them on their way to Wine Tower. 
5)  Dealing with the logistics to start the days climbing.























Nose:  All the lower parties from yesterday are history.  Only the two speedy Spanish climbers made it from yesterday.  They did the KS, with some effort.  The swinger ran the equivalent of the distance from LA to SF in managing the task.  It wasn’t pretty, but it was done.   I last saw them heading into C4 as I departed a bit past 3pm.
Higher up the NIAD/Dome link-up team of Eric and Scott flashed up the route so fast that I didn’t see them until the Grey Bands.  However they soon ran into the three person Korean team who were still at it in spite of the obvious impossibility of finishing the route at the rate they were going.  Eric and Scott waited at C4 for an hour to be able to get on the Roof as the Koreans were taking forever to lead it.  Some friends of the Koreans came down for a little chat on the radio and learned that the team was just about out of water and were putting their entire hopes on finding water higher on the route.  They were thinking maybe two more days.  Not the 2 day ascent plan they started with.  Eric and Scott passed through them and I suppose realized their plight.  They gave up their link-up plans and lead to the top setting lines for the Koreans to jug out on.  I would have hated to see what would have happened if the two Americans had not done the route today!
Actually, this situation is a prime example of reckless behavior and lack of good judgment on the leader of the Korean teams part.  They should have bailed at the end of the first day when it became apparent that they did not have the speed or water to do the route in a reasonable time.  The result of these poor decisions could have been very bad, not to mention having to endanger the members of YOSAR who would have had to come and fetch them off the wall.  Don’t let your bull headed pride overcome your judgment.  They didn’t make the ascent anyway as jugging out on someone else’s lines is not climbing the route.

6)  Eric leading the Pancake Flake during the Korean salvage operation.




























Blast from the Past:
7)  Troy Johnson, climbing high on the route on the first ascent of Bad Seed.  Bill Russell photo.


























In other news:  We had a nice contingent of climbers here at the bridge today and quite a few Tourons too.  The outstanding Korean climber, Ki Bum Lee stopped by to hang out and watch the progress of the Korean Nose team. 

8)  He shook his head in disgust as he pronounced the proceedings described above as a “rescue”.  He chatted a while with young guns Alex Honnold and Hayden Kennedy while his son, Elan Lee was unimpressed with the company and promptly fell asleep in the chair next to his dad!!























The teams on the other routes are doing well and none seem to be suffering from the heat thus far.  The weekend is upon us and the place is jammed.  Parking spots are hard to come by.  Next weekend should be the end of the world here!!  I’m out of here pretty soon.
So that’s the way it is for this the 27th day of June 2009.
Stay calm… Tom



Hey Tom, good to see you for 2 seconds last night at the lodge. Heading into Vogelsang for the summer tomorrow. Miss seein' ya around E dorm this summer, please tell Mara I said hello! Thanks, for all your hard work, love readin' the report everyday! Have a good summer,

Sarah Butler

tangerine or zodiac is what I

tangerine or zodiac is what I heard they were climbing. Yep they are there for sure. Hope this isn't too late of a response.

Sat on El Cap?

what route are they planning on doing? Does "perhaps" mean they are on the rock for sure? That rock is a big place and the lads don't wear name tags so it is very hard to ID people as to what their names are.
Let me know if you can.

Sat on El Cap

Great site, looking for a couple of lads who perhaps are climbing this weekend on El Cap, Christopher and Jeremy. Probably have a book or two with them or maybe a chess board, always thinking, those two. Maybe tomorrow we will see a snap of them?


Nice pic of Troy "Tron" Johnson on the BS. He has given me alot of good stories and this is one pic I am definately going to try and get to him. Thanks bill and tom for the picture post!


Thanks, Tom.
I dunno about all that weird eastend shortstone.