ElCap Report

Submitted by Tom Evans on Thu, 04/23/2009 - 01:44

Welcome to the ElCap Report website.  Below you will find the reports I have written for the past several climbing seasons in Yosemite.  I use a 500mm and a 600mm lens for the images you will see below.  Many of the reports were written before I was able to post images, so don't expect to see images with all the reports.  Originally the reports were done on Supertopo.com so you will find references to that site in the writings.  I started this site in late April of 2009 and have been pleased with the interest you readers have shown.  Website design and operation by Chris Falkenstein of El Portal, CA.  Many thanks Chris!!

IF YOU SEE ANY SPAM IN THE COMMENTS SECTIONS PLEASE DO NOT CLICK ON IT AS IT ONLY ENCOURAGES THE BASTARDS!

DISCLAIMER: 

THESE REPORTS ARE THE MUSINGS OF AN OBSERVER WHO IS FAR FROM THE ACTION AND ANY RELATION TO THE TRUTH IS THE MEREST OF COINCIDENCE.  SOME OF WHAT IS WRITTEN IS SIMPLY  A FABRICATION, WRITTEN TO MAKE THE STORY "BETTER".  SO DON'T TAKE THIS STUFF TOO SERIOUSLY.  IT IS MEANT AS ENTERTAINMENT FOR THE MOST PART ALTHOUGH I DO TRY TO GET THE CLIMBING FACTS RIGHT.  THESE REPORTS ARE WRITTEN FOR CLIMBERS SO DON'T BE SURPRISED IF YOU, A NON-CLIMBER, DON'T GET THE TERMINOLOGY.  THIS REPORT IS IN NO WAY "OFFICIAL" AND IN NO WAY REFLECTS THE OPINION OF ANY GOVERMENTAL OR PRIVATE AGENCY.  ALL CONTENT IS STRICTLY MY OPINION.

Read and enjoy the exploits of the climbers who take on El Capitan.  They are a diverse group with a common bond and each has a unique story to tell.

Many thanks to those who have made a donation to the site... all donations are really appreciated no matter the amount!  It is for all of you who read the reports, and for the climbers who are in them, that I spend the many hours it takes to keep this thing going. If you want to read about my life then click on the "About Tom Evans" box above.

A new feature of the site is the Photo Gallery above.  If you just want to see some pics from 2009 then click on this box or click on any images in the thumb nails grouped on the left of the page, or the Monthly Archive for April 2010.   Be sure to click on "original" to see a larger image of the shot.  Enjoy!!

Best wishes,  Tom Evans

  The "read more" for this section will give you additional information about getting pictures and processing, and comments.

ElCap Report 5/24/13

Submitted by Tom Evans on Sat, 05/25/2013 - 02:56

ElCap Report 5/24/13
By Tom Evans
Yo… Wow!! Another beautiful day for climbing on the Captain. Sunny and cool conditions will not last much longer, as a storm is expected on Monday. It seems that Zodiac is still the climb to be on these days. Several climbers are taking a wait and see attitude before committing to blasting. Spring lighting is making for some difficult photography, but fortunately Capt. Tom knows all the tricks, to make shots work out right. BUT… help me out here climbers! The shadows are long and dark this time of year so … LOOSE THE DAMN DARK SHIRTS AND PANTS!! They combine with the shadows to make humans look like long, dark blob. Do you really want a once in a lifetime shot of you to be a head with a dark blob for a body? Really?  You aren’t doing it for me…. I have a couple hundred thousand shots of climbers on ElCap and another blob shot just gets given to you not me! Women!!! Dress your man! 

ElCap Report 5/23/13

Submitted by Tom Evans on Fri, 05/24/2013 - 04:11

ElCap Report 5/23/13
By Tom Evans
Yo. Today we had a beautiful Spring day but it was kind of chilly and the wind was blowing pretty good too, although not as bad as yesterday. The story today was a lot of Zodiac and a little of the Nose. There are other routes going on but I was not in a position to see them directly… so… who knows?
The big weekend is at hand… remember… do not come to Yosemite this weekend…you will not be happy if you do!

ElCap Report 5/22/13

Submitted by Tom Evans on Thu, 05/23/2013 - 03:33

ElCap Report 5/22/13
By Tom Evans
Yo…  I arrived at the Bridge this morning to find a very strong, cold wind blowing hard from the West. The air was full of all kinds of particulate matter, brought from a great distance away. Climbers on the Nose’s lower third felt the blast the worst, and all were decked out in wind jackets and puffy’s. They all bailed!! Only climbers high on the route proceeded up the route. The wind has backed off, as I write the Report, and hopes are that it will not reappear in the morning.

ElCap Report 5/21/13

Submitted by Tom Evans on Wed, 05/22/2013 - 04:32

ElCap Report 5/21/13
By Tom Evans
Yo… The beauty of Spring weather continues to intrigue. There was lots of action on just a few of the routes today. Things are settling down a bit now after the terrible Sunday we had a couple of days ago. Erik Sloan is manning the Bridge on Tuesdays and Wednesdays for a while, giving me a much needed break. Some of the shots today are really neat so you are in for a treat… as if you aren’t always in for a treat! The climbing season is going good now and more climbers are expected around the first of June… so hold onto your helmets, big wall freaks!

ElCap Report 5/20/13

Submitted by Tom Evans on Tue, 05/21/2013 - 03:16

ElCap Report 5/20/13
By Tom Evans
 
Yo… another day of perfect climbing weather but due to recent circumstances the cliff is very vacant. The action these days is on the three most popular routes on ElCap. Of course, those routes are, the Nose, the Salathe, and Zodiac. So I am going to share the action with you.  At the end of this report is an analysis of yesterday's accident, as told to me my Marc Venery, the surviving member of the team.

ElCap Report 5/19/13

Submitted by Tom Evans on Mon, 05/20/2013 - 01:18

ElCap Report 5/19/13

By Tom Evans

 

Yo… it started out a beautiful spring day.  The three person mixed team on the Nose did the King Swing and was motoring along when I left.  There was a team on the Salathe that was doing well too.  I saw a wall team from yesterday climbing above Camp 5 this morning.

I arrived at the Bridge around 9:20am and was immediately approached by Ranger Ben Doyle who had reported that a call for help had come in from a party high on ElCap.  I set up my instruments and viewed the scene… I was horrified to say the least, and I will not go into any details at this time as an investigation is underway.  One of the team was killed in a fall.  Yosemite Search and Rescue immediately swung into action and did a “from the top” extraction of the deceased climber and is presently evacuating the surviving partner.  In all my 18 years of photographing ElCap I have never seen such a grisly, terrible scene. 

ElCap Report 5/18/13

Submitted by Tom Evans on Sun, 05/19/2013 - 02:52

ElCap Report 5/18/13

By Tom Evans

 

Yo… another spectacular day here in Yosemite Valley.  Sunny and cool, with clean, clear air, to shoot through.  Lots of action on the few routes being climbed, at the moment.  I heard from Dave Allfrey that he and Alex Honnold were going to pick some “Low hanging fruit” today.  Check it out below! 

Most of the teams on the Cap are nearing the top now, so we need some replacements!  That could be you, my faithful reader…. Where the hell are you?  Sitting home watching sports on the Tube?  Well man up, Puke, and show the world what you got!!  I can’t make you world famous if you aren’t in front of my 600mm Nikon f/4 lens.  Imagine the glory, and climbing groupies, you are letting slip away!

ElCap Report 5/17/13

Submitted by Tom Evans on Sat, 05/18/2013 - 03:07

ElCap Report 5/17/13
By Tom Evans
 
Yo… You know all that rain that seems to have everyone on edge these days? Well, it failed to materialize today. It was a beautiful day with a deep blue sky and   puffy white clouds sailing along! Perhaps now everybody will get off their butts and do some climbing on the Cap!! The people are here… minus the will to climb! Thus, today’s report is going to be on the thin side… live with it!!

ElCap Report 5/16/13

Submitted by Tom Evans on Fri, 05/17/2013 - 01:27

ElCap Report 5/16/13
By Tom Evans
 
Yo … I awakened, around 6:15 this morning, to find the sky a solid mass of high gray clouds. The forecast was for rain today… well 30% anyway. I motored down to the Cap around 9am and immediately went out west. With no deep shadows on cloudy days, I am able to shoot any face or feature without the harsh contrast of a sunny day. I was psyched! All the action was on the South West Face, from the Nose to the Salathe route.  
Stop browsing those other sites and stay here for a day of chilly, drab conditions but  good climbing on the Captain!

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