ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 1/12/15 Special Dawn Wall Edition Day 17

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By Tom Evans

Yo.. Today was catch-up day for Kevin.  A good effort would bring each team member’s high point to Wino Tower.  Since Tommy’s high point was already there, Kevin had to climb pitches 18, 19, 20.  The weather was kind of a problem.  The day was partly cloudy and, when the sun was out, it was really warm, but when clouds obscured the sun, it was quite chilly.  There is much talk around town, concerning summit day… when was the question?  Everyone has a different idea.  The media darling of rock climbing, Alex Honnold, said it will be Wednesday, mid day.  I think it will be a day later, perhaps two.  (EDITED LATER.. Honnold was right and I was wrong!)  In mid morning, the day after the summit day, there is to be a press conference, with the men, in the ElCap meadow.  Well…remember Captain Tom’s saying, “You never have it made, until you have it done.”  Climbing to start at 10am tomorrow morning!

ElCap Report 1/10/15 Special Dawn Wall Edition Day 15

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By Tom Evans

Yo… Day 15 on the climb started out very overcast with rain lurking.  It was cooler too and conditions looked right for Kevin to catch up a couple pitches on Tommy.  Kevin had texted me that they were going to start around noon and I had some interviews to do for the media, so I went early.  By the time I arrived the clouds had thinned out and the sun was peeking through.  Soon the boys were set to climb.

ElCap Report 1/9/15  Special Dawn Wall Edition Day 14

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By Tom Evans

Yo… Today's weather changed from sunny to cloudy, with a drop or two of rain, every now and then.  The conditions were better for climbing due to the absence of the direct sunlight on the rock.  It was humid and warm in the meadow but must have been pretty good on the rock, as Kevin had chosen this day to make his attempt on the notorious 15^th pitch.  The crowd started gathering just after noon and grew with each passing minute.  It was a mixed group with quite a few Tourons who had been following the news and climbers who knew the significance of the climb and wanted to witness the historic event. 

For Kevin it was the day of reckoning.  In the last few days, Tommy had climbed way above Kevin’s high point, and he needed to get past these super difficult pitches, and catch up with Tommy at Wino Tower, and soon.  Kevin was feeling the pressure of all those days, months and years spent working on the route.  Success or failure, the die would be cast today, as he is running out of time and finger pads, so now it's fish or cut bait.

ElCap Report 1/8/15  Special Dawn Wall Edition Day 12

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By Tom Evans

Yo.. Will winter ever come back?  I recall, at the start of this grand adventure, that I was freezing by buttocks off every day I was out shooting.  Today it was shirt sleeve weather in the meadow, until darkness came that is… then I scurried for the car like a flushed quail.  This sure beats a driving snow storm, but that’s about it!  Kevin had another day of not climbing, and belayed in support of Tommy’s efforts to climb pitches 19 and 20.

ElCap Report 1/7/15  Special Dawn Wall Edition Day 12

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By Tom Evans

Yo… the unseasonably warm weather continues here, much to the delight of the Tourons and detriment of the climbers.  The men have been forced to climb at night, so the rock will be cold enough for their specialized climbing shoes to get maximum traction.  Tommy is really on a roll now and has past the major technical difficulties of the climb.  Kevin is nursing finger injuries, but with a little rest I think he too can get past the hardest parts.  They are a team, and each has spent many days and weeks over the past years working on this climb.  Late this evening, Tommy put the 17^th pitch behind and as I departed was starting the 18^th.

ElCap Report 1/6/15  Special Dawn Wall Edition Day 11

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By Tom Evans

Yo.. great weather for general climbing and watching the happenings on ElCap.  But, not so good for extreme climbing.  Way too warm on the Cap.  The men decided to wait until darkness was falling to start today’s climbing.  Thus the pics are a bit on the sketchy side… but pretty neat really.  For the past two days I have been handling media requests from all over the planet!  Wow!  What a ride that has been!  You may have seen the nightly news reporting on the climb and the use of my shots in the reporting.  Pretty cool for this old timer!  Suddenly I am an overnight success… only 20 years in the making!!

ElCap Report 1/4/15  SPECIAL DAWN WALL EDITION DAY 9

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By Tom Evans

Yo.. Today started out with heavy clouds, low temperatures, and a smattering of light snow.  I hid in the car until I could find out what the climbing plan was for the day.  Kevin was champing at the bit to go back on the 15^th pitch which he worked without sending yesterday, late into the night.  So I was ready to set up at a moment’s notice. 
Around 11am the clouds suddenly disappeared, heading south, the sun came out and it was nice and comfortable in the EC Meadow!  Nice for me but not good for the climbers.  So they did a 180 and decided to wait for cooler temps around 4pm to start the climbing.  So I hung around talking to Erik Sloan and later the Big Up crew stationed in the meadow.  Around 4pm the action started….

ElCap Report 1.3.14  Special Dawn Wall Edition Day 8

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By Tom Evans

Yo … Big time climbing here in Yosemite!  This climb, “The Climb of the Century”, is getting world-wide attention, as Kevin and Tommy are seemingly riding the winds of success to what looks like victory.  The NY Times has the famous reporter, John Branch, here to cover the story.  The story is being carried by regular media, not just climbing related media.  Psyched to be here, in the thick of the action…albeit from a thousand yards away!  But, as you faithful readers know, distance is erased by my Big Gun, which zooms us up close to those micro holds and tic marks.  They have been on the wall 8 days so far… you can smell them from here!!

So … the holidays are over and most of you are back at work.. Cubicle Pukes.. arise!!  Take a break and come with me…your man at the scene of the most memorable climb in many a year.  Forget about those flash and dash climbs and all the hype they generate… this is the real deal and you are right there, up close and personal! 

ElCap Report 1/1/15  Special Dawn Wall Edition Day 6

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By Tom Evans

Yo.. Beautiful day on ElCap after several difficult days of wind and cold.  It was almost warm in the sun today… but the long shadow of Middle Cathedral Rock soon dispelled that myth!  The guys had a big day today sending two difficult pitches of 13c and 14d.  If you come to watch them, be aware that they don’t climb until past noon.  Not because the conditions are better but because of logistical reasons.  Tommy and Kevin are responsible for the safety of the photographers so they spend considerable time arranging ropes and belays to keep everyone safe.

ElCap Report 12/31/14 Special Dawn Wall Edition Day 5

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By Tom Evans

Yo.. The weather got a little out of hand last night with busting winds and falling trees.  Kevin and Tommy weathered the storm and when I texted Kevin this morning he said they were going to climb in the afternoon.  Unfortunately, the road from EP was closed for most of the morning, due to fallen trees.  By noon the road was cleared and I headed to the EC Meadow to set up and get what shots I could.  The wind howled all afternoon but I was able to hide behind my ancient SUV and shoot without too much trouble.