ElCap Report 9/27/13

ElCap Report 9/27/13

By Tom Evans

Yo.. The weather continues to be sunny but with a chilling wind up high and down below.  Lots of action on the Nose and Salathe.

We had a new mixed team speed record on the Nose and I will show several shots below. 

The last night of shows are going on tonight so I will cut to the chase so I can get to bed at some reasonable time tonight.

I also wanted to mention that Jim Bayer, if you didn’t read about it in a previous report, became the oldest person to solo ElCap by virtue of his recently completed Lost in America solo.  He was 57 years 11months at the time.  Congratulations to Jim!

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Solo climber, Mike Ierien, climbed from the top of the second to the top of the 4th while I was there.

NA Wall:  This may just be the last shot I post of these guys.  As you can see they are not very photogenic.  They climbed above Mazatlan Ledge as I departed.  WORST DRESSED TEAM OF THE DAY!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sea of Dreams:  The Swiss team is blasting in the morning.

Nose:  The Nose saw a couple of NIAD’s today, including the record setting one, by Sean Leary and Mayan Gobat.  This strong, mixed team, cruised the route in 4:22.  That was the same time as the former men’s record was several years ago!  They could go lower by a considerable amount, given the right conditions on the route.  Congratulations are in order for sure!!

Sean Leary, aka Stanley, is seen here breezing through the pitch to the start of the Jardine.  Sean is well known here and has been on expeditions around the world.  A great climber and great guy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mayan Gobat is seen here pulling line from the traverse off Dolt Tower.  She was injured yesterday in a bike accident but sucked it up and gave her best effort today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This girl is no Jr. High Cheerleader!  She blazed across the King Swing and got it on the first go!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sean likes to free climb on the Great Roof, a pitch that puts most others in their aiders right from the start!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mayan, bringing them home, on the 10.C crack leading to the bolt ladder finishing the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The speedy team passed Stefan Brunner and his partner Teno who also did a very respectable NIAD.

Here is Stefan on the pitch into the Gray Bands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were several other parties on the route too and below are two shots of random climbers in the middle of the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Climbing to the Boot from Texas Flake.  Shot from way out west.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3D:  Higher up I spotted Mash Alexander and his partner Jeff finishing the route.  Here is Mash heading into the Alcove.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  The lower Salathe had a swarm of climbers too numerous to keep track of as the parties merged and separated.  So I have some shots of the mob over there.

Jugging off Hollow flake ledge, with the bags, while other climbers heckle the lad.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a long shot of the area around the Ear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This shot is of the climber leading the charge to the Alcove.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Horse Play:  Old Pete is out there day after day, calmly intoxicated, and getting the job done.  He is seen here on the beautiful corner leading a couple hundred feet above the arch.  I got this from way down south and liked the power it displays.  Not Pete, but the rock!  SHOT OF THE DAY!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  It is late now and I have returned from the show and need to get this finished so I can go to bed… so… no other news tonight.

So that’s the way it is, for this Friday, the 27th day of September, 2013.  This day is also the 41st birthday of my son, Tom.  He is a fine father and a wonderful son of whom I could not be more proud!  Happy Birthday Son!!!

Off to bed….

Capt. Tom

 

 

 

 

 

Love the photos!

Hi Tom! Any news from Lurking Fear this week? This is David B.'s wife and I've been absolutely eager to know how all is going. I know you don't usually photograph that side but ever curiouser as I twiddle my thumbs waiting for contact. David and I are regular readers of your blog and always enjoy seeing the action through your amazing lens. - Diana B.

 

yo  Dave delayed his start because of a weather forecast that was not so good.  I think he actually went up to the route yesterday.  I looked at 3pm and didn't see him.  I will look further today.  Tom Evans