|Submitted by Tom Evans on Thu, 09/27/2012 - 02:19|
ElCap Report 9/26/12
By Tom Evans
Yo… The late summer weather continues for the foreseeable future… pretty warm up there but not blazing hot. No rain in the forecast for as far out as can be predicted, with some accuracy. The Big Routes are getting big attention with the Salathe still number one on the hit list. The air is spectacularly clear and I am getting such good photos that I really look forward to processing the images at day’s end.
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!
Zodiac: The Brits, Vic and Guy, showed up today and climbed from the 4th to the center of the Circle, where they will bivy. They look to be solid climbers and should really enjoy the route.
Guy leading into the Circle while Vic is lost in his thoughts at the belay.
Vic starting to clean Guy's lead on some beautiful SE Face rock.
Trip: The two guys from yesterday were not seen today but the first two remain fixed. I hear they are fixing for Andy Kirkpatrick and his 13 year old daughter. Keep her away from the lads at the rescue site Andy!
Higher up Oli Warlow continues to climb well and is getting pitches done pretty fast and in good order.
Solo climber, Oli at the belay at the start of the 9th pitch.
NA Wall: This two man team is moving along really well and are off by now I think. Sorry to have missed so much of their climb.
The belay above the huge Cyclopes Eye, high on the route.
New Dawn to Genesis: The boys stayed in very late today, not starting climbing until 1:30pm. Part of the plan I assume?! They had nothing fixed above and I think Jon’s prediction that they will be off Friday is a pipe dream. But you never know about those guys. A cold one says they are not off Friday!
The “Show”, amongst some of the most interesting rock on the route, thus far.
New Dawn: Kenny Bokelund is back, sporting his usual shitty looking shirt, in the company of a much better dressed guy named Tom. I spotted them just through the trees this morning after they fixed some yesterday. I think they will be on LLL tonight.
Nose: Several teams are on this historic route. The three man team from yesterday, the 2 Scots, a 4 man team from the 3D, and a NIAD team were all in line this afternoon above the Great Roof. All will top out today.
Lower down there was a wall style team low in the Legs and not looking to spunky. Below them were two guys making a Dolt run ....but so late in the afternoon that they hadn’t reached the Legs by 3pm. Their gonna die!
Scott Deputy does his part of the double swing after Aaron Smith nailed his run. This is the second NIAD by Deputy in the past week. For an old dude, Scott’s doing pretty well!
Salathe/Freerider: The route is almost full now but a couple of the higher teams are headed off this afternoon.
First light finds a climber, on ElCap Spire, looking at the route above.
Lowest on the route is a pretty well dressed team of three who are not so fast but seem to be persistent. 2out of 3 isn't bad!
Cool shot of one of the Freerider teams jugging past the headwall and hauling kit.
The Japanese team topped out this afternoon.
Last pitch of the Salathe Wall.
Cosmos: I spotted Skiy and Amanda at the right end of Thanksgiving Ledge this afternoon. They will take a hard left and traverse the 800 feet to the Lurking Fear finish.
Mystery route of the Day. It is on ElCap. Yesterday’s was the 2nd pitch of the Trip.
In other news: The Facelift is in full swing now and the roadsides are littered with litter seeking volunteers. The shows look interesting every night but get there early if you want a seat, as the place fills up fast.
On a personal note… I want to wish my son, Tom, all the best wishes, tomorrow, on his 40th birthday. He is a fine man and a great father!! I am proud to be his father!!
Andrea, Tom, Ellie, Thomas on a recent Hawaii trip.
So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 26th day of September, 2012.