ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/20/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Splendid fall weather abounds and climbers abide.  This is it folks… all the god weather a climber could ever want.  As a result there is lots of action on the Captain.  Today is the first day of the Facelift and the masses are out in force, sweeping Yosemite clean of a years worth of junk and trash.  It is a great cause and we still need more people to help out, so head to the Visitors Center and sign up!  

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The photogenic team from yesterday bailed from the top of the 4th today.  Other parties seem mildly interested in replacing them but from what I have seen they lack the necessary grit to actually get up there.

Trip:  The three person team did bivy at the start of the 1st bolt ladder, as predicted, but crawled along all day and were still a couple of pitches from the top when I departed.
1)  Up early to clean and jug.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Continental Drift:  Piton Pete and the crew is moving up faster now but did something today that displeased many of the cliff watchers and ElCap lovers.  For some reason they flew a banner all day that many found offensive and inappropriate.  Is this how we want the public to see climbers?  Here is the pic of the team and banner and you can make the call.   BTW I have no idea of who Adam Gill is.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

North American Wall:  I heard there was a team on this historic route but didn’t see them until this afternoon.  Their leader had reached the top of the 4th pitch by mid afternoon.
3)  Belay at the start of the chimney pitch on the NA Wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PO Wall:  Adam, Bill, and Jordan are now on the home stretch of this famous route.  They bivied at the start of the Bearing Straights and slowly climbed toward the Island in the Sky as the afternoon progressed.
4)  Breaking the Bivy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Bill Levanthal leading up the Bearing Straights.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mescalito:  Hugh and Duncan topped out late this morning.  Good on you guys!
6)  Last pitch on Mescalito!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  A solo, named Brent I think, has started into the long corner leading to Lay Lady Ledge.  He looks strong and is moving right along.

Nose:  Three different NIADs were on the route today, including the team of Cory and George who were onsighting the route.  The solo from the 3D, colorado Kevin,  was just ahead of the NIAD’s all the way to the top of the changing corners.  I think they all got off just fine.
7)  The solo, Kevin,  is in red high up in the Changing Corners.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were a couple of teams below them.  Cory and George got a late start and were thus far behind the other NIADs.  They were at Camp 4 around 3pm and have a long evening ahead.  Lower down a team of three languished in the Legs for most of the morning and afternoon.
Higher up the Timmy and Dave, show featuring Heath and Jeff, topped out with the two rookies having to jug free hang lines up the last pitch while wily vets,

8)  Dave and Tim lead and cleaned the pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shield:  I saw a couple of teams heading up the 3d cutoff and know only the destination of Kyle and Alec, which is the Shield.
9)  Kyle and Alec heading to the Shield.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  I did see three parties on this route today.  A two man team up high around the Boulder Problem, a three man team heading to Hollow Flake, and a two man team climb rapidly up to the Spire between the other teams.
The lead climber was ID’ed by Hondo as one, Matt Ciancio.  Anyway he was in yellow and free climbed very nicely to the Spire via the Monster Crack with belayer in tow.
10)  First light on Hollow Flake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Chimney above Hollow Flake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dihedral Wall:  I barely made out the horribly dressed team of three as they passed near the big roof high on the route.  Maybe Thanksgiving Ledge tonight.

In other news:  Another accident near Half Dome today, as a hiker or perhaps a climber, wheeled off the so called “Death Slabs” approach to the lower face.  Fortunately he got off lightly with a broken leg for his trauma.
YOSAR was right there to quickly evacuate the injured man.  I love those folks!!
Half Dome has turned into the most dangerous place in the Valley with the exception of moving water.  So a word to the wise… be extra careful these days friends.
Gene Malone showed up at the Bridge with refreshments and his great attitude.  The Bridge was good today as Erik was on duty and I just talked shit and took shots.  Back on duty tomorrow however!

So that’s the way it is for this Tuesday, the 20th day of September, 2011.
I’m off to the evening show at the Facelift… see you there..
Later Ansel Evans