ElCap Report 9/18/13

ElCap Report 9/18/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… Cooler today with some high clouds.  The Cap had a fair number of climbers on it but could hold a whole lot more.  That means that all you “Real” climbers should plan on hitting it soon.  I need to get some sleep do I will dispense with the normal bull crap and get right to the Report.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  I was wrong about Aaron and Crista getting off yesterday as they bivied on Peanut Ledge and climbed off in the late morning.  Cruiser climb for them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brian and Diana also topped out today but later in the afternoon.

Here they are climbing the pitch above Peanut Ledge with Brian on the sharp end.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down,Yosar heroes Todd Bartlow and Bud Miller, teamed up to do the route in a push.  I last saw them finishing the Black Tower and later heard that  they bailed from the Circle... didn't actually observe that myself.  Here we see Tod "the bod" finishing the third pitch where he met Saku, the solo from Finland who is moving along just great.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Higher up I shot Bud leading the Tower.  Come on Bud!!  You know better than to wear those colors! 

Congratulations Bud Miller.... WORST DRESSED CLIMBER OF THE DAY!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lost in America:  Jim is looking good and moving smartly along.  Here he is breaking down the belay this morning on some cool looking rock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tribal Rite:  Kevin DeWeese is on the Tribal part for good now and I caught this shot of him climbing the 3rd pitch on the route, which starts at the top of the Boot.  Looking good Kevin!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  A couple of teams stopped by the Bridge yesterday to say they were starting last night and climbing for a NIAD.  This morning I saw just one of the teams on the rock.  Dean and John, from Washington state were seen around ECT and I watched them climb to the Boot, and later the Great Roof.  Here they are on the King Swing where Dean got a little lost and belayed way below Eagle ledge. However they soon figured out the situation and moved along.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Above them was the gaggle of Korean climbers, who managed the ropes and stances pretty well for such a large group.  They were above the Great Roof as I departed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunkist:  It is unusual to have one party on this beautiful route much less two.  Matt and Keenan climbed to Grey Ledges while I was there and should have pushed higher.  Here they are a pitch below Gray.  They are looking good and should do fine higher.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Above them is the British team of Dominic and Bill who are now on the headwall and are moving up smartly.  Their friends say they are relentless and will get the job done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  The two Germans and the Scot finished the route late in the morning.  Here we see Andy waiting to jug the last part of the route as the sun came on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dihedral to Horse Play:  Pete must have climbed late yesterday and was on the 5th pitch around 2pm.  His kit almost looks normal, as opposed to the junkshows of the past.  He is an excellent solo climber and is wanting to do the work in hopes of getting in better condition.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  I have noticed the brakes on my van are making some awful noises and upon inspection found that my pads are way shot.  So I planned to change them out when I could find a couple of free hours some afternoon.  Fortunately, while hanging at the Bridge I learned that fellow Bridge Rat, Joe, is a mechanic.  So while I shot Joe replaced the pans and I will not be killed driving back and forth to the Bridge!  Thanks Joe!!  Here he is hard at work, while Scott helps with the music!  Edit later... some people say that it may be against the regulations to fix a car in Yosemite and one must use the local garage.  If so be warned!  It makes sense that they don't want to have car parts scattered around the place as it is a scenic wonder!  Sorry!!  Maybe one of my ranger friends will post up below and let us know what the regulation is so all us dirt bag mechanics won't get in trouble.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheyne Lempe got the job at the bridge today and we had a nice time hanging and talking shit on a very slow day.  Good fun.  Blake came by later after walking from Curry for the exercise.  We are in the Café having dinner at the moment.  Internet is pretty good here but the noise impressive… ear plugs for me! 
BTW donations came on the internet for the Bridge Beer including one from Poland!!  I went to the store and stocked up for the crew.. thanks to all who donated!!!  Also those that have donated to the site... I really need the help this season.. so a hardy thank you to all donators!!!

So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 18th day of September, 2013.

I’m outta here!!

Capt. Tom

thank you Tom!

thank you Tom!