ElCap Report 9/17/2015

ElCap Report 9/17/15

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Continued spectacular weather is dominating the climbing here in Yosemite.  Warm sun, blue skies, and a cool breeze are making conditions perfect for big wall climbing.  The action is heating up on the Captain so stay tuned for the rundown on all things climbing related.  I am here to report the happenings so that you will know what is going on and how your friends and loved ones are doing.  It is not an inexpensive task to do what I do, and I really appreciate any donations you can send my way.  If you got pictures from me and haven’t sent a donation then please consider doing it.

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

Waterfall Route: Brandon Adams has re-established the line that was destroyed back in 2010.  He has now joined the original route and has taken a few days off… good for him as we had a rockfall come down there this morning… so a word to the wise.. EC is still active you know!

Zodiac:  Two parties are on the route at the moment.  The lead team is composed of two Italians, Roberto and Alberto.  They allowed a mixed team to pass them late this morning. 

1)  The mixed team climbing from the top of the Black Tower pitch this afternoon.





























2)  Lower down, big wall legends, Steve Gerberding and Scott Stowe, hoofed over to the Zodiac to fix a couple.  They are escorting Scott’s two daughters up the route over the next three days.  Here they are leaving the line-up.  Steve is on the right.





























3)  Trip:  The three Italian climbers are moving right along on this steep, strenuous route.  Two more days will see them to the end.






























4)  North America Wall:  Libby Sauter and Chantel Astorga are attempting to make a speedy ascent of this historic route.  Here is a shot I got of them through the trees this morning as Libby started the 2nd pitch.





























5)  Chantel’s block started below the Mazatlan roof and here she is racking up for the scary chimney above.






























6)  Mescalito is seeing a team of two moving steadily along.  Here they are at the end of the long right leaning corner that makes up the lower third of the route.






























7)  Later in the day the sun was departing, as they hauled kit to the start of the Molar Traverse.






























Nose:  The Nose is seeing a lot of action these days.  Most of the climbing was done in the middle of the route.  A few teams languished on the early pitches today with no stand outs and a lot of aid climbing.

8)  This team brought up the rear of the middle groups.  Here they are on the Texas Flake.





























9)  Higher, the dark man, from yesterday in the Legs, did some bouncing before doing the King Swing.






























10)  A mixed team avoided the Lynn Hill traverse by going the classic way.  Here the woman is lowering from the pendulum point to reach the start of the Gray Bands Traverse.































11)  Later in the afternoon the action moved up to the Great Roof and Pancake Flake where this shot was taken.






























3D:  I did see Pete, Anita, and Mike appear to bail from the Gray Ledges this afternoon.  They had a time constraint… something one shouldn’t have when climbing with Pete.  Whoa!!  Seems like things were not as they appeared!!  I saw them lower down again but I think is was for logistical reasons... maybe moving some more kit up... THEY DIDN'T BAIL!!!  Good on you guys...keep it going!!!

12)  Salathe:  I got this shot this morning as a two man team was sorting gear on the Hollow Flake.  I last saw them on the pitch to the Alcove.






























13)  We had a nice crew show up in the EC Meadow mid afternoon.  Lots of spray and Cobras were in evidence!






























So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 17th day of September, 2015.

More later, Capt. Tom


Yo this the Brandon working on the waterfall. The route is actually going to be pretty solid. As with any fresh area, the blocks have to be knocked but Ive encountered mostly solid stretches. A word to the wise? Must be pretty stupid to go have an adventure these days huh? Hahaha. Im stoked to take it to the top soon.

Remind Steve not to toss his Sh-t

When I climbed Zodiac last year Steve was leading a big group above us. They tossed their garbage in the night nearly hitting us. The tossed all their poop bags too. We cleaned up the poop and burned it before we launched. Perhaps he can carry his crap off this time. Times have changed for lower impact on the wall. Tom please remind him to think of others below. Thanks. And welcome back I will send you a finanacial case. Cheers Scott W