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ElCap Report 6/6/13

Submitted by Tom Evans on Fri, 06/07/2013 - 02:43
ElCap Report 6/6/13
By Tom Evans
Yo… More hot and humid, but the afternoon clouds come drifting down from the high country, and shade the great rock. Right now, it looks a lot like we will get a shower out of storms active in the high country… but nothing so far! Lots of action on ElCap, so I will get right to it.
Today’s ElCap Report….written just for you…unique in all the world!
Zodiac: Suddenly the “Zod” is drawing them in, like earlier in the season. Perhaps  its’ location, in a mostly rain proof area, is an attraction with forecasts for afternoon showers on most days.
1) I spotted a speedy team, who appeared to be Korean’s, below the Great Circle when I arrived. See tomorrows report for their identidy!  They are short fixing and looking good. Here is a shot of the Circle from way out west this afternoon.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
There was another team below them who climbed from the 3rd to the start of the Black Tower while I was
shooting. I think they are Robert Mehrens and Kevin DeWeese.
Lower was a climber doing the so called, “Direct Start” to the route. 
2) This guy missed two interesting and fun pitches by doing the much maligned Direct start.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
3) Tangerine Trip:  I saw one of the guys up at the belay at the top of the 4th but I didn’t see any climbing while I
was there.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
NA Wall: I talked to John Tylka and Matt Watford before they blasted on this route today. It is an interesting route to photograph and should give us some good shots.
4) Tribal Rite: Max and Mike climbed the corner pitches up to Lay Lay Lady ledge this afternoon. Here Mike is on the sharp end.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Nose: Scott Stowe and client topped out late this morning and were later followed by Drew Marshal and Ryan Grant who topped out in mid afternoon.
Highest on the route were Justin Vandever and Travis Heidepriem, who did the double King Swing, and are on their way to a NIAD.
5) Justin getting more air than I have ever seen on the King Swing!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Lower down a mixed NIAD team climbed rapidly to the Boot and were last seen heading to Camp 5 this afternoon. I hear that Josh McClure is the guy and, Miranda Oakley was the woman.  Both are Yosemite Mountaineering School guides.... She was killing it all day!! Justin and Travis let them pass at the Great Roof and missed their NIAD by a few minutes.  Doesn't matter though as they all had a great day not to be spoiled by a few minutes here and there!
6) Miranda, sending the right side of the Boot, in an effortless display of technique.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
7) Higher up, Miranda is seen here doing the splits, to reach the belay across from the top of the Boot.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
8) Lower down a team climbed from Sickle Ledge and are seen here on the pitch to the start of the Jardine Traverse.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
9) Lowest down is the team of Ryan, Matt, and Ivan heading toward the Stovelegs from the top of Sickle Ledge.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
10) Shield: Yann Camus enjoying a break on the fabled “Chickenhead” Ledge at the top of the Shield headwall. Hudon and Lempe, just down from Sunkist, had nothing but praise for the man.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
11) Salathe/Freerider: This shot shows all three teams, featured in the past few days, at the start of the last pitch of the route, this afternoon.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
12) West Buttress: The Hotel de Pete has moved onto Lurking Fear now. The guy in orange is a climber on Lurking Fear passing by. The generous Pete, probably offered the guy a beer or some wine and cheese as he jugged by!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
In other news: Good routes are getting done now and the summer weather is not far off…. So … it is now or never for your climbing plans, this season. Come on out!
So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 6th day of June, 2013.
Please take a moment to remember the brave men, who landed on European soil, on June 6, 1944 bringing freedom back to Europe. 
Signing off for now,
Capt. Tom
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
#1Submitted by Anonymous on Sat, 06/08/2013 - 19:48.

Thanks!

Thanks for the great photos Tom! We had an incredible day of climbing.

-Justin

#2Submitted by Anonymous on Sat, 06/08/2013 - 01:44.

Guys on Zodiac

Hey you got Kevin right on Zodiac, but the other guy is Robert Behrens (i think that's how you spell his last name) aka munge climber.

#3Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 06/07/2013 - 19:54.

SPEED

Wow! Way to go Mark and Cheyne on Sunkist. That was quite the speedy ascent. Nice work, you are making all of us climbers who bivy more than 4 nights look bad.

Jordan Webster

#4Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 06/07/2013 - 21:23.

Miranda Oakley...

Haha, "The woman" is the fantastic Miranda Oakley (Josh's gf). She crushes for sure.