ElCap Report 6/5/13Submitted by Tom Evans on Thu, 06/06/2013 - 03:32 |
ElCap Report 6/5/13
By Tom Evans
Yo… Warm today, with considerable humidity. We had another of those magic clouds appear over ElCap late in the afternoon, and a thunderstorm threatened but evaporated. About 30 climbers were on the wall today. The throngs still cling to the Big Trade Routes, while the more adventurous seek less traveled fare.
So put the dog on the porch, send the spouse to the store, crack a cold one and saddle up with the old 6th Cav.
Captain, Captain Tom. We’re riding hard and fast on the heels of the greatest rock climbing on the planet.
Today’s ElCap Report….written just for you…unique in all the world!!
Zodiac: I did see a couple of well dressed troopers working the first two pitches today and got a shot of them … but I’m kind of jaded about Zodiac these days, as many play climber, at the base but few continue higher.
Lost in America: Jean and Jonas have the first fixed and have yet to return… Hello? ElCap Calling!! Hello?
Tangerine Trip: Dan and Mike fixed to the top of the 4th yesterday and ran a little late after an alien came apart
with the head in the crack and the stem on the deck! They blast in the morning.
North American Wall: Word from the base walkers is that there is a team on this route but for the life of me I can’t seem to spot them!
New Dawn to Tribal: Big Andy Kirkpatrick and his partner, Steve Bate have decided to let Max Jones and Muscle Mike step up to the plate first… most likely so they can continue their Pizza and Beer regimen at the Bridge! International cooperation… sweet!!
1) Max Jones hauling some kit low on the route. Notice the ramp up and behind Max. It is the 3rd pitch on South
Seas.
Nose: The Ninja Team from yesterday, Drew Marshal and Ryan Grant,shed most of their black clothing and had a good go at the middle of the route today. They did a variation of the King Swing technique which most wouldn’t do but it worked for them!
2) Safe!!!... at the end of the King Swing.
Highest was the team from yesterday, Aaron and Jackson, who had most of the route to themselves.
3) This leader likes to climb! Free climbing on the 10b crack after several days on the route. Pretty stout!! His partner seems to be relieved! They topped out shortly thereafter.
Scott Stowe and client climbed from ECT to Camp 5 today, as is customary for the old guide. Operations went smoothly … until the Great Roof!
4) Stowe to client, “Hey Son, that ain’t no fixed gear back there! Get your butt back and clean it!!”
Lower down … several teams of various compositions hacked and clawed their way up the Stovelegs this afternoon…. They will all bail!
Shield: Yann Camus climbed from the end of the roof this morning and was last seen leading the Triple Cracks as I departed.
5) Yann hauling kit to the start of the Groove, as the sun comes on. We have a real climber here folks!
6) Yann leading the Triple Cracks this afternoon.
Sunkist: Cheyne Lempe and Mark Hudon are conspiring against me again! I figured to get some primo shots, over the next several days, of them on the Headwall. So, what do they do today? They climbed the whole damned headwall!
7) Cheyne leading, while Mark hides in his hammock, early in the morning.
8) Cheyne hauling kit. The Canoe is on the lower right of the shot.
9) Mark cleaning the belay.
Salathe/Freerider: Three teams are playing tag high on the route today.
10) The top team are the Costa Rican’s who climbed over the Roof and onto the headwall this afternoon.
11) The next team down was Chris and Oli who dicked around trying to free the corner to the roof. Did I see aid slings?? Behind them was Mike, who is seen here climbing to Sous le toit Ledge while Chris relaxes on its cramped stance.
12) West Buttress: Pete, Mark and JP have arrived at the start of the Grand Traverse and we all wait, with deep yawns, to see what they will do with the kit. Here they are seen lining up for a picture.
In other news: Bad news floated in on email this evening. Jim Donini has pulled a muscle and is out for the record NIAD try, until next spring. Other than that…nothing much to report.
So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 5th day of June, 2013.
Ok, you can dismount now, and go back to the mundane life you are struggling to make meaningful! We here, have no such problem… we know ours is meaningless!
Later, Capt. Tom
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well done Mark and Cheyne
what a send!
was great to see you on the bridge, tom. until next time!
alice
x
Thank you Tom!
What a excellent report. Thank you sir! Awesome photos and dialogue.
Good one Tom! You had me
Good one Tom! You had me laughing out loud before 8am!
Costa Rica Team!!
Thank you Tom!!! You have been guiding us these days!!! The Costa Rica Team should reach the top today :) please keep your lense on them!!!
excellent!
Tom,
Your reports are the highlight of my evening web browsing! Thanks and please keep at it. I and friend will be down there next week, 6/14 to 6/17 for a NIAD. Hope to talk to you beforehand, meet the man behind the "no punches pulled" brilliance!
John
Impressive shots Tom
How or where was that first shot of Max hauling gear taken from?
Couldn't have been from the bridge.
Must have been in the afternoon jaunt to the west side for a different view.
WOW!!
My little life has been made a little better from your view of my dreamland.
Thanks Tom