ElCap Report 6/24/13

ElCap Report 6/24/13

By Tom Evans

Yo…  The weather closed in this morning, and that sent several teams hustling for the top, or looking for a place to hide.  At the present time we are experiencing lots of low clouds but not a lot of rain.  It is chilly on the cliff, but not yet really cold.

Today’s is the last ElCap Report for the 2013, Spring season.  It has been a difficult season for all of us, as the odds finally came up again, and we lost two excellent climbers and really fine men.  We will remember Mason and Felix for their skill, humor, and character.  They will be missed. 

The weather, this Spring, was very nice for a change, with just a few days of real heat and no big spring storms.  The Captain was not nearly as busy as it has been in years past, and it seems the Trade routes were all that is being done.  I want to thank all those who have supported the Report this year and in years past.  It would not be possible without your continued support.  So for the last time this spring…

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Waterfall route:  Pete was able to retreat from the route and be safely down by this morning.  He did have to leave some of his kit on the climb but will go back to remove it when conditions are better.

Zodiac:  Steve Bate bivied on Peanut last night and climbed the pitch above as the rains started to fall.  He is in a good location and should be fine for the night, if he doesn’t make a run for the top today.

1)  Steve reaching down to clear some line, at the top of the Peanut pitch.

























Lower down, the 2 man Korean team, climbed the pitch past the Brow and could end up on Peanut, if they push a bit.  They have radioed, IC Kang, their fearless leader, that they are out of food, but are ok for water.  I suggested they just suck it up and go on… easy to say from the deck!!

2)  Suk Min Moon, pounding in a little insurance.

























3)  Lower down his team member, Min Joon Kang is wrapped in the rain fly and encountering the team leader from below, from the Rob and Kindal team.

























Tangerine Trip:  I talked with Kiri and Ryan this morning and they have decided to abandon their attempt on the route.

Higher up, the 3 person Korean team, was spotted leading the last technical pitch.  Woman climber, Eum A Kim, got the job of leading and was caught in the rain about 60 ft from the end of the pitch.  She pushed on and finished the lead and the team was last seen hauling kit at 2pm.  They should be off by now.

4)  Eum A Kim, leading the arch to the final ledge, this morning.

























5)  Teammates, Kyung Han and Yeol Soo, at the belay, waiting for Eum to finish the lead.

























6)  I spotted Mike Flood leading the last pitch as the rain came on.  He pushed on to the top in short order.  Nice work Mike!!

























7)  Matt and Cameron bailed from Camp 4 this morning and are seen here negotiating the slippery slab down to Dolt Tower.  Nicely done... but still....BAIL OF THE DAY!!!!


























Lower down a team was seen climbing the Legs to Dolt, where they set up their ledge, as an awning.  I figured they would bail immediately and took no shots of them… they didn’t!

In other news:  Pete made it down to the Bridge, just after Ottawa Doug arrived from the top of the PO.  A couple of our local guys helped Doug get his kit down from the top.  I had dinner with Doug and we had a nice time catching up on two years of our lives and the climb too, of course.  His was, I think, the best climb of the Spring season.

8)  Pete, Doug, and Erik at the Bridge.

























9)  Doug enjoying his first beer on the deck!

























A little later, Beau States pulled in with a swollen ankle that didn’t look so good.  Also, Spike and Dan came by, after their climb of the 3D.  It is always a pleasure to have climbers come by after ascents, as we love to hear about their climbs and renew old friendships over a cold brew.

10)  Tourons like to see the climbers, even in the rain!

























Well, I guess that’s all I have for you on this day.  I will be seeing you again in the Fall, when the quiet days have settled upon the Valley, and the warm sun shines through the crisp, cool air.  Thank you all for your support and remember that the climbing season IS NOT OVER.  I will still be shooting and hanging at the Bridge until I leave in early July.  So come on by for some cheap beer and fun times!

So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 24th day of June, 2013. 

I hope to see you here when the Report returns, on 15 September, 2013.

Until then, Capt. Tom… signing off for now.



Thank you so much!

Hi Tom-

Thank you so much for the great reports throughout the spring season! Hope you enjoy the summer ahead and return soon for more of the same...

Thanks again and Cheers,



That is a really good photo of Doug. Looks like he just climbed El Cap or something!
Thank you for the Report!

Thank you!!

Thanks for another season of amazing photos and reporting, Tom. Congrats to Canadian Doug on an incredible solo (of the season). We were rooting for you on the ground with our weak headlamps and hoarse monkey calls. Hope to see a write up!

thanks a lot for all the nice

thanks a lot for all the nice pics and priceless comments. I'll miss the report as part of my morning routine (I live in europe).

One of a Kind!

Thanks Tom for all your amazing work. This report is the best way to stay close to the valley from afar! Great reporting again this season!


Tom - the 2 man team below the Koreans are Rob and Kendal. 2 Floridians, not Euros. Though I suppose if theyve busted into their whisky stash already that might sound as if theyre from a far off land.

thank you

Thanks Tom for keeping the stoke up while our tails get soft in front of these glow-box machines. Looking forward to the fall season already. In the meantime, time to run to the Sierras....