ElCap Report 6/11/10

ElCap Report 6/11/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… Warmer today and breezy, but it looked colder on the cliff as all the teams were dressed warmly. The Captain was spitting them out like watermelon seeds. The Bridge was frequently jammed with Tourons and climbers alike. Jerry Miller showed up to shoot today but will not be around for the rest of the weekend, so check out his website for your shots from today. Unfortunately, I still have the Valley Plague so I will get right to it as I need to go to bed soon.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: The three man Korean team, winners of the highly coveted “Worst dressed team of the Day” award for the past several days, were up and hitting it early. They climbed to Peanut ledge by late morning and were dusting off the pitch above as I departed. They are off by now for sure. A nice ascent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Early morning finds the Korean team headed up.

 

Lower down, the Nomad Team bivied at the ledge at the start of the Back Tower pitch but were soon at the Captain’s table, eating some humble pie from the bitter bowl of bailing. Thus they earned the not so coveted…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BAIL OF THE DAAAYY!!!

 

Trip: Justin slept in today as Kate and Kitty jumped a pitch ahead of him as they finished up on the Trip. He could be off tomorrow.

Lost in America: These three well dressed men are progressing, although be it at an unsustainably slow pace. Pick it up guys, or you’ll be trading your “Best Dressed of the Day” in for a “Bail of the Day’!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Waiting for the boss to finish the lead.

 

Aurora: Kate and Kitty climbed onto the exit pitches on the Trip this afternoon and could be off by now. I saw Kitty leading the pitch up to the corner to the tree as I departed. Kate looked particularly strong on this route.

 

Mescalito: The two dudes are pretty fast and wanted to be off late today. I don’t think so lads…. unless of course you go into the night, until it is done. This team, with the home made gear, has done some impressive climbing and have racked up an ascent to be proud of.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leading up the famous Bismarck.

 

New Dawn: Ben, Eric, and Scott are trying to do this route, from the ground, in just three days….a tall order for sure. But they are on day two and easily made Wino Tower in the late afternoon and probably higher! So many pitches!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Relaxing on ElCap Tower while the leader heads for the long traverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Starting out on the traverse rail leading to the WEML rivet ladders.

 

Lower down I saw the Korean team climb up the long corners of the right side of ECT, headed to Lay Lady Ledge. This is a team of 4 and it will be interesting to see how they divide up the work on this, one of the longest routes in the Park. I didn’t see much of them as they are still blocked by the trees most of the time.

The Nose: The King is alive and well these days. A fresh crop of Noser’s showed up in the Legs today and battled for position all day. Holly and Jeff swept through the teams like they were standing still, in an afternoon jaunt up to Dolt Tower, just for fun. One of the other teams continued above Dolt while the rest evaporated in the afternoon sun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“Excuse me, excuse me, coming through” Holly Beck cruises past a wall style team in the Stoveleg crack.

 

Higher up a team from yesterday did the King Swing, in front of a large throng of Tourons here at the bridge. The folks hooted and hollered as the leader made several passes at the swing and finally got it done. Unfortunately they lost all the advantage they had gained by bringing the second and the bags down to Eagle Ledge instead of just leading to the higher ledge. They were last seen doing the pendulum into the Grey bands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Downward bound after the King Swing.

 

Higher yet several parties were clustered around the Great Roof, which seems to be the custom of late. All were wall style teams and I think some came over via the 3D traverse. Anyway it was pretty full up there!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Turning the corner on the Nose.

 

Shield: I was wrong….imagine that! Mash and partner did show up on the route and didn’t take the 3D cutoff yesterday. I picked them up this morning doing the Groove and later in the day they were way up on the Triple Cracks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cold and windy up on the Shield today.

 

Pace Maker: I did see Pete and a fixed line up above the Tower of the People this morning. They should be off pretty soon.

Salathe: Still a busy place above and below the Spire as mostly wall style teams continue to trudge up Roy’s favorite route. I have no idea of who is who up there but I haven’t seen anyone bail in quite a while on that route.

Out west? I haven’t been out there in a while and in my present condition have no inclination to do so. Sorry about that….

In other news: Another weekend is here and with the falls gushing and spring in full bloom, I’m sure the traffic will be crushing. But the climbing is good now and the weather fine, so the big waller’s will be big walling and we will be watching them, living the dream! So if you can stand it, come on out and enjoy some great weather and climbing.

Heroes of ElCap assembled at the bridge today to bask in the Glory.  Bob was there too, hoping to extend his basking for a couple of weeks instead of the customary one day!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bob, Brian, Jordan, and Adam basking in the glory at the Bridge!

So that’s the way it is for this the 11th day of June, 2010.

Bye Bye… Uncle Tom

Well, let me explain that name…. In Korea, I am told, I am a well known, practically famous climber. That due, of course to this Report and my photos. So the climbers there, I have recently learned , call me “Uncle Tom”. Well, I guess that’s ok in Korea, but not quite ok here in the USA! Anyway, it’s harmless and I take no offense in it. So…. Another moniker to close the report with!

Jan and Mark, kick ass!! I'm

Jan and Mark, kick ass!! I'm curious how and from what they made the ledges!!

greets from below sea level

Niek

What Peggy said. Hope you

What Peggy said. Hope you recover quickly.

-John Fine

Hope you are feeling well

Hope you are feeling well soon, Tom.
Peggy Thompson-Hudon

Superb. Great photos,

Superb. Great photos, Tom.
Thanks
Regan

Nice closeups and angles

Nice closeups and angles today Tom. A new perspective on some pitches, I dig it.

Feel better man!

Kate is a rockstar.

Matt
"lambone"

Feel Better Uncle Tom I think

Feel Better Uncle Tom

I think a few reports back that something was said about Pete moving rather nicely and would be doing speed ascents by the fall. well maybe not

Russ

Correction Tom. Kate looks

Correction Tom.

Kate looks particularly strong on every route she climbs.

Too bad about Team Nomad - you guys still rock - just the fact that you're there and made the attempt makes you winners in my book!