ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/08/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… The weather has been so good it’s almost boring! Lots of climbers on the hill these days. The Nose and Salathe have the most with Zodiac a close third. Breezy on the Cap the past few days, but that's better than warm with no breeze! So come on out before the hot weather sets in later in the month.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: The disabled team continues to roll along this classic CP route. They climbed the MOZ and were headed to Peanut when I departed. The climbing leader continues to be the man in red. I’m sorry I don’t have their names but they didn’t stop at the Bridge before the climb. Anyone know them? Post up if you do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1)  The leader of the group just past the MOZ this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  The team below the Devil’s Brow.

　

Below them John Selove, from the past couple of days, continues to move up the route. He and Matt Thomsen are setting the same pace and bivied near each other last night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Solo John Selove, entering the White Circle as Matt packs up kit early this morning.

　

Below the solo the Korean Team Extreme Riders climbed the BT and into the Circle in the afternoon. No stick today!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  The Team giving the Circle above the hard look early this afternoon.

　

Below them another solo, Dave Hutchison, fixed yesterday and blasted today. He was about to start the Black Tower as I departed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Dave on the start of the bolt ladder on the 5^th pitch.

　

Lower down another solo showed up today. Maybe playing or maybe another climber going up.

　

Shortest Straw: Matt Thomsen is keeping a steady pace in spite of the difficulties. He seems to be in the groove now. He climbed through the White Circle and out the top today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Matt catching the early light this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

7))  Matt high in the Circle this afternoon, from way out west.  He is a little ahead of the Zodiac solo in the shadows to the right.

　

New Dawn: Another team has saddled up for this suddenly popular route. This time it as Roger Putnam and Brad Potter. I couldn’t see them above the trees today but they are on the route now.

Nose: The Nose has only one team below ECT at the moment and a hoard above. Pete and Mark abandoned the Muir part of their plan and, much to the distress of some other climbers, continued up the Nose. I hope they are giving free samples of coffee to the climbers climbing over their kit! I imagine there is some kind of time constraint, as they have started to do some hitch-hiking.

There were teams spread out all along the upper dihedral this afternoon.

A team came over on the 3D and got in line with the rest.

The JTree girls bivied a pitch below Camp 4 last night and were last seen heading up the Great Roof. Hope they don’t have plans for Camp 5 as Pete is installed there with the Show. I have a running bet, with some Bridge Rats, that the girls will succeed on the route … so COME ON GIRLS, ROCK IT!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  JTree girls breaking the Bivy down this morning.

　

Lower down JC aka John and friend Lisa were spotted on Dolt this morning. They must have gotten a late start because I completely missed them yesterday. They climbed via the Jardine and were last seen on Eagle ledge this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  JC belaying in the Jardine corner, leading to Eagle ledge. Notice Texas flake on the right.

 

　

Lisa almost to Eagle ledge. The bottom of the Boot is on her right.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Finishing the Jardine to Eagle ledge.　

I did see a team of two low in the Legs this afternoon as I left.

El Corazon: Nik and Madaleine worked their way up the splitter crack to the traverse pitch this morning and into the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Madaleine finishing the pitch as Nik belays early this morning.

　

Salathe: A swarm of climbers suddenly materialized high on the route today. Who the hell are all these people?? Anyway I got a shot of the throng from out west this afternoon. I didn’t see anyone below the Spire today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  The headwall area of the Salathe.

　

Lurking Fear: I did get a glimpse of the route and saw Bob and Ryan on the 6^th pitch and a team below at the top of three.

　

In other news: Nice, once again, at the Bridge today. Mark Hudon was down and talking about his Iron Hawk adventure. Marc and Markus were also here taking to Mark about Tribal, which Mark soloed a couple of years ago. Greg Howland, always helpful with the Tourons hung out most of the day. Several other climbers were here and there too.

So that’s the way it is, for this Friday, the 8^th day of June, 2012.

So long,

Tom