ElCap Report 5/31/10

ElCap Report 5/31/10

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Another nice day for climbing, with the popular routes seeing some action. The traffic wasn’t too bad today either. The Bridge was quiet most of the day, which is typical of Holidays. We got some high clouds late in the day and they continue to thicken as I look out of the window here in the Mountain Room Bar.

The climbing season is full on now and we should have several weeks of “typical” Yosemite weather, whatever that means!!

So here it comes, direct to you.

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you… unique in all the world!

Zodaic: Stefan and Gerda are most likely over the top by now. They climbed the route with just two bivies and Gerda is an EC rookie!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Getting moving early in the Morning on Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pitch above Peanut Ledge is a lot of run out fun.

Lower down, a solo in a push, with sub 24 hour desires, showed up in front of my lens today. It is Scott Bennett, a Colorado climber and frequent Yosemite visitor. He was moving along well but I think the night will be a long one. I talked to him yesterday about his plan and he knows what to expect!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scott in the White Circle.

Lowest down a team of two went off the ground and climbed past the 5th pitch. They were bundled up at the third belay station as it has been the scene of recent water falls that have sent some parties hitting the ropes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Don’t stop here mate!

Trip: The two Germans, Tobi and Reiner, made a speedy ascent of this popular track.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Topping out on the Trip.

Lower down Bob and Oliver are getting it done. They were at the 9th belay when I departed. You know, old Bob is looking more and more like a man who is going to climb ElCap! Don’t screw the pouch Bob!

Mescalito: The gang of three continue to put the pitches behind them and were headed toward the crux pitch as I departed. A few more days left for the lads however.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leading the Molar Traverse pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The boys and their bags await the “off belay” call.

New Dawn: Dave and Adam should be gone off the route by now, after an impressive ascent. Good work men!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the Sweetness that is the Dawn Wall up high.

Tribal: Brian make ElCap Tower this morning and settled in for a time before heading up to Texas Flake, and beyond most likely. Bivy on ECT for sure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brian climbing the jumble at the finish of the Right Side of ECT.

Nose: The herds continue to stampede up this route, although there is no traffic below the Great Roof by now.

Scott and Todd, Springfield, Missouri Pukes, made a run at a short NIAD today and looked good and maybe even fast. They were putting their best effort at a speedy ascent. (Don’t worry Hans!). They passed Bob and Ambrose up near Camp 6. Bob and Ambrose are going for the top tonight no matter what!  Scott and Todd later told me they did a 9:20 ascent.

Lower, Dave Turner and partner Pete climbed to the Boot, where I got a shot of them and then…..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BAIL OF THE DAAAAAAAYYY!!

Tribal via Grape Race: Mark Hudon showed up in my view finder today. He is dragging a junk show up the longest slab in the Valley, if you don’t count the GPA. He has concocted some plan, garnered from some of my shots, that involves traversing far right and down from the end of Grape Race to join Tribal. Should be interesting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark Hudon, in a high friction area on the Captain.

Mason Direct to Golden Gate: Mason and Brad were out working on a free variation, for a more direct start to GG, today. It didn’t look easy and they were flailing and falling most of the day!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brad and Mason, in the hard stuff.

Pace Maker: Pete lead a pitch today that lead to a large vegetated area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pete in the vegetable isle.

Salathe: The teams from yesterday continued above ECS today, making some progress up the wet sections. Lower down a team climbed from Hollow Flake to the Alcove in early afternoon.

Lurking Fear: This route has several suitors on it at the moment but I have not been down to watch them yet.

In other news: Talked to Uli and Hondo this morning for a while. Uli is not full strength at the moment so they bailed on Nose plans and went cragin. They haven’t got a detailed plan yet but are working on it… casually… well…. Maybe they don’t have a plan at all yet… do they need a plan? I think they do. Stay tuned. Meghan Curry stopped by on her way of the Valley this morning.  She had a good time on her Zodiac solo, but got pretty cold she said.

So that’s the way it is on ElCap for this the 31st Day of May, 2010

Later Tom

 

Mark Hudon is climbing the

Mark Hudon is climbing the Grape Race- Tribal Rite link up with a lot of "junk" because he wanted to climb El Cap with an entirely different attitude than he has ever had in his 38 years of climbing. Yes....it is a lot of stuff, but, life up there has slowed down to a pace that is new to him. Mark is always up for new experiences and this one appealed to him with the same fervor that he had when he did the N.A.I.D. last fall with John Fine! I imagine him looking at every part of the rock as he inches up this route, much like he would when taking a close up, macro shot on his camera. I am psyched to follow him, thanks to you Tom.......

Peggy Thompson-Hudon

Thanks for the pics of the

Thanks for the pics of the Mescalito lads. I don't know if it easy's my mind or makes it worst but loved to see where they are at.

Dave's Mom

In regard to my painfully

In regard to my painfully slow Zodiac solo last week - thanks for all of the virtual support! Yes, I did rely a bit too much on the stick at first, but what can I say? Im a young blond woman, wanting to climb up and down a pole is a natural predilection. How about fewer nays and more finely creased one dollar bills! Thanks in advance for what Im sure will be great photos Tom! Peace, -meg

Whooooooo Hoooooo Bob! Glad

Whooooooo Hoooooo Bob! Glad your getting it done! Come home soon, Miss you!

Kimmerz:}

That's a lot of junk Mr. Mark

That's a lot of junk Mr. Mark Hudon, but that is perhaps what it will take. Grape Race should be an interesting start to Tribal. Go Mark, go. Awesome pic of the Dawn Wall up high. Bail of the day : ) The guys were probably out for a short afternoon cool down up to the boot. Sweet!

Thanks for the reports,

Doug

love the pics today. The

love the pics today. The kiwi Boys are camping at Sickle tonight, so you should see them tomorrow - can't miss doug's helmet!

Go Scott!! Glad to see Brad

Go Scott!! Glad to see Brad and Mason finally gettin' after it.

Way to go Ambrose and Bob!

Way to go Ambrose and Bob! See you tomorrow.
Many thanks to Tom for the pics and reports. It made it easy for me to not have to hang around the meadows or the bridge all day.
Awesome trip reports and pics.
Kathy

Cool Pics

Cool Pics

Go Bob and Ambrose! Camp 6 -

Go Bob and Ambrose! Camp 6 - You're almost there!

It's raining in Seattle right now. You're not missing anything.

.Bill

nice!

nice!