ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 5/28/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… The splendid weather has returned, and with it the rush is on…. mostly on the Nose, unfortunately. Yesterday was as bad a traffic day as today was a good one. I left the van at the Bridge and took the shuttle in to camp and later returned for the van on my bike. I was not able to write a report for yesterday. Yesterday also saw the demise of the Tribal attempt as Mike and Gabe had serious equipment problems with their new haul bags which were not as water proof as advertised. They were drenched and returned to the deck yesterday. The ElCap shuttle is bringing the multitudes to the Bridge once again.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: A team of three left the deck yesterday with kit and continued upward today. They were climbing into the White Circle as I departed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

1)  Zodiac team headed for the Circle.

　

Iron Hawk: Mark Hudon arrived in the bad weather so delayed starting a day. Yesterday he and 4 Sherpas hoofed to the base and sent him off on the climb. He climbed to the ElCap Tree and hauled kit to there. This morning found him climbing over the roof and onto the wall above. He should be at the start of the KB Traverse for the bivy tonight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

2)  Mark and the boys hoofing it to the Cap.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

3)  Mark clearing the ECTree roof.

　

Sea of Dreams: My spies, who constantly patrol the base have told me that there is a solo a pitch up this rarely done test piece. We will see.

Mescalito: Jim Gaun and Cameron Kern were seen fixing the first 4 today. These Flagstaff boys are an experienced team and should do fine. They had to change plans as Never, Never Land is closed.

　

New Dawn to Tribal: With Gabe and Mike gone the way is now open for the previously referred to as “The Old Man German Team” of Marc Urich and Markus Ruhnau to get on the route. They have fixed a couple and took the day off.

 

Nose: The King is now holding court. Legions of troops threw themselves at the route today. Yesterday was staging day and today is attack day. NIAD’s quickly blasted ahead of all the bag haulers and left them in the dust by late morning. Greg and Cheyne were leading the pack and were last seen heading into Camp 5 at 3pm. Below them was another NIAD who were on their heels most of the time. Below them was a bag team that were putting up a pretty good show too. Down in the lower environs of the route chaos ruled the day. Another bag team dragged their way toward Dolt and were still shy of the land mark by departure time. Lower yet it was reported to me that several parties were tangled in Piton Pete’s junk show on the second pitch. Pete and pard, Mark are doing Grape Race to the Muir but have not gained enough height in the past two days to be visible from the Bridge. Everyone will be happy when the show moves off the Nose and onto Grape Race.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

4)  Cheyne Lempe free climbing the Boot this morning.

　

　

Three King Swings for your viewing pleasure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

5)  The Reach.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

6)  Calf roping champ.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

7)  The lunge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

8)  Cheyne leading Pancake Flake.

　

Salathe/Freerider: A couple of teams came into view around Hollow Flake late in the morning. I hear that Ted and Jason are doing the Salathe while Ryan and Julian are doing Freerider. No one was remotely close to the Ear by the time I departed this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

9)  Almost finished with the dreaded Hollow Flake pitch.

　

10)  In other news: The Bridge has been mobbed this weekend so I have been working pretty hard these days. Several climbers hung out today including the crew below of, Corbin Usinger, "Burt" Bronson Hovnanian, Gabe McNeeley, and Mike Ousley.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Rumors abound about a speed attempt on the Nose later in the week. I will find out what is going on and let you know.

On this Memorial Day weekend, I hope you have taken a moment to reflect on the immeasurable sacrifice many thousands of your fellow Americans have made, in the past and continue to make daily, to protect your freedoms.

I specifically remembered the 10 classmates of my VMI class of 1966 who were KIA in Vietnam. One was a room mate of mine, Scotty Dotson, fighter pilot extraordinary, who lost his life on 9 August,1969 while on a mission over Laos.

So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 28^th day of May, 2012.

Later,

Captain Tom Evans, USAR.