ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 5/24/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Conditions remain perfect for climbing ElCap…. But no one is taking advantage of them. There is talk of a thunder shower tomorrow and perhaps that has kept some of the aspiring EC climbers off the rock… but since when did the threat of a thunder storm keep climbers off the rock in May thru Sept????????? Seems like timid Pukes are infesting the Valley these days. Why, I remember … back in the day… well… you know I seem to remember that we were all fearless!! Anyway….

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: The team that fixed to 4 yesterday were seen sleeping in late this morning… always a sign that a bail is imminent … and it was a reliable sign once again… so ….

1)  Bail of the Day!!

　

　

NA Wall: I saw Stuart and Niek above the Cyclops Eye this morning and picked them up again as they were starting the last pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Hauling and cleaning to the start of  the last pitch on the NA wall.

　

　

New Dawn to Tribal: Mike and Gabe picked up the pace today and will be lounging tonight on the spacious comfort of Lay Lady Ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

3)  Gabe leading the pitch before LLL.

　

Nose: Scott Stowe hit it right again and has the King to Stuart and himself. They made steady progress and were above Dolt by 3pm when I packed up to go. ECT tonight and Camp 5 tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

 

4)  Scott and Stuart motoring along in the Stovelegs.

　

　

Higher up I spotted Woody and Darren high on the route. They were starting the last pitch as I departed this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

 

5) Starting the last pitch on the Nose.

 

 

Two guys bailed from Dolt after a bivy there.

　

　

3D/Shield: A team of 3 has been working their way up to the traverse for two days now and I went out west this afternoon to shoot them and a push team on the Shield. Both teams arrived at the junction of the routes at about the same time. The 3D team went right where the Shield team went left. The 3D team had some difficulty with the bag line hooked on a flake but cleared it without trouble. Unfortunately the Shield team of Colin and Cheyne decided to give up the push and bailed from the start of the roof pitch which they reached in 10 hours from the deck.  Fortunately, however, I had bet a friend a beer that they would bail!!

6)  Traverse to 3D and Shield. You can see Cheyne up to the left cleaning gear.

　

In other news: Perfectly beautiful today with cool temps and warm sun. Where are you? Not much happening right now. Most smart folks are leaving the Valley for the weekend, as the traffic is hideous on holiday weekends here. The Traffic managers have a new plan… seems like they always have a new plan each weekend!! It will not be pretty no matter what the plan is… so … if you can… stay the hell away from here!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Reflection in van window of me at the Bridge today. 

You may not get a report on the day you expect this weekend because of the crowding here but I will get something out when I can.

So that’s the way it is for this Thursday, the 24^th day of May, 2012.

Later,

Tom