ElCap Report 5/24/10

ElCap Report 5/24/10

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Well the metrological pontificators said this was to be the best day of the week. I sure hope not, as it was cold and dark at the bridge all day. The cliff had that ominous grey look about it that said, “come on up, let’s see what you got Puke!” The action was limited, for the most part, to the parties you have been reading about these past few days. A few new faces came and went… mostly went! The weather has been bringing them down faster than gravity ever could. That said, the SE Face is still the place to be on the Captain and the scene of most of the action today.

So here it is … Today’s ElCap Report .. written just for you… unique in all the world!         

Zodiac: The two man Spanish team who were climbing on the route late in the day yesterday, were spotted on the Black Tower pitch. After a time they climbed into the Circle via the Straw pitch that is often mistaken by Zodiacer’s for their pitch into the Circle. They had just finished the lead to the start of the Nipple pitch when I departed and most likely carried on to its end.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Climbing the Straw pitch to the White Circle.  The real route goes up that crack on the slab to the right of the climber.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spanish team of Santiago and Marco hauling and cleaning in the Circle.

The solo woman, Meg Curry, appeared today at her kit, atop three and lead the 4th in the morning and into the afternoon. She had a nice, powder blue wind jacket, with hood extended, that is all the rage this season on the distaff side. A useful, yet stylish little number that should keep her dry and warm on those long leads in the White Circle, assuming of course, she makes it that far. Thus far she has labored slowly along and was on the bolt ladder on pitch 5 when I departed. He seems to have the grit to do the labor required and her aid climbing will undoubtedly improve in speed as she progresses. Plus, she is sporting a long stick that will also serve her in good stead higher up!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meg, climbing the 4th on Zodiac.

Zenyatta: The two man Swiss team climbing on this route made the top today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last haul on ZM.  Lars and Martin finish it off.

Lower down the team from yesterday left the first two fixed and were at the bridge for a visit this afternoon. They are the Germans, Marc and Markus, who did the South Seas to PO last season. You may recall they were the so called “old guys” in their mid forties. Good to see them back in the valley, and these guys know how to dress too! Remember, 90% of the poorly dressed climbers bail!!

Genesis: EE and Kate bivied beneath the Dawn Roof last night and were up early and climbing. Kate was hauling to the big ledge two from the top as I left. They could push to the top, as each of them has done this part before. But, maybe they will stay and enjoy a last night on the Captain.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Breaking down the bivy beneath the Dawn Roof.

Nose: The team of Jim and Karla who have been on a week long road trip, up this route, make the top this afternoon, after nighting on the necessary but repugnant, Camp 6. Good on you guys! They did it just like they wanted to without any regard to the atmospherics..

Lower down a team of three make a run for Dolt Tower and looked miserable the whole way. The climbed just fine but were bundled and huddling at the belays. They rapped not long after arriving on top.

Lower down yet, the speedy lads, Alex and Uli, made a run at the route but decided to work the first four pitches as they weren’t feeling the love on this cold, windy day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alex and Uli getting ready to go on the Nose.

A team bailed from Sickle this afternoon in what is:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE BAIL OF THE DAY!!!

In other news: The SW Face is pretty well shut down by weather concerns, with the exception of Piton Pete and buddy Mark, who have assembled a junk show atop Little John in preparation for bulldozing their way up Pace Maker. Start your engines! Otherwise things are quiet, cold, damp and very un-May like thus far. This is March weather, not late May.

So that’s the way it is for this the 24th day of May 2010.

I'll let Hondo take it on out from here…. Bye Bye

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I.C. Please see the thread on

I.C. Please see the thread on Super Topo about Koreans on El Cap.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1178472/Koreans-on-El-Cap

IC  no problem... the weather

IC  no problem... the weather should be solid by then... rest assured I will keep a close watch on the lads.

Hi..Tom.. I am very concern

Hi..Tom..

I am very concern about weather....

6 or more teams of Extreme Rider from Korea will go there from late May to June...

I pray the weather get better....

Please pay warm and kind attention to them.....

Most of them are first visit Yosemite....

Cheerio...

I.C.Kang

You mean Ryan and Bill?  They

You mean Ryan and Bill?  They bailed....

We're watching for friends

We're watching for friends who are supposedly climbing the Muir Wall. Have you seen anything of them? (Two guys)

Hondo and Uli had the right

Hondo and Uli had the right idea

Appreciate it Tom. Thank You

Appreciate it Tom. Thank You for the report despite the weather!!

The weather

It's supposed to get warmer next week.

Mark