ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 5/23/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Perfect days and nights here this spring… hasn’t been this good in several years. Good action on the Captain, but we are in need of replacements as several of the teams are topping out today and tomorrow. So saddle up that old nag of yours, not your spouse, and ride hard for the Valley. You are needed on the Captain… report immediately… that’s an order from old Capt. Tom himself. We hear of some possible sketchy weather on tap for the weekend… I…don’t… think … so!

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: The only team established on the route will top out later today. They have done a good job on the route thus far.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

 

1)  ElCap salute from the pitch above Peanut ledge this afternoon.

　

Lower down a team of two climbed the first two but I haven’t seen any kit yet.

North America Wall: The upper team, of Austrians, climbed out of their bivy at the Cyclops Eye this morning and were on the way to the Igloo as I departed around 2pm. I think they will top out today in late evening.  Unfortunately the team below reports that the Austrians threw their shit bags off the route instead of carrying out their waste.  I and others have commented many times in the past on this deplorable tactic, that too many of our visitors seem to find acceptable.  WE DO NOT!  Carry out all your wall waste!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

2)  Climbing up the right pillar of the Cyclops Eye this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

3)  Cleaning and hauling to the start of the Reverse Traverse this afternoon.

　

Lower down the other team climbed the Roof after their bivy in the Black Cave. They climbed rapidly to the Cyclops Eye and I have a suspicion they will keep going to the Igloo or perhaps the top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

4)  Roof pitch on the NA Wall.

　

Mescalito: The Miller boys have been moving along at a good clip on this climb and were climbing to the Bow, three from the top, as I left today. They have YOSAR training tomorrow so I think they will push to the top this evening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

 

5)  Belay before the Bow, high on Mescalito.

　

New Dawn to Tribal: I did spot Gabe and Mike hauling kit low on the route today. It looked on the warm side over there.

　

Nose: The poorly dressed team who climbed from ECT to Camp 4 yesterday were up early and climbing fast in the shade of the morning. They made Camp 5 while still shaded and disappeared from my view above the Glowering Spot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

 

6)  The pitch into Camp 5, scene of many debacles in the past and generally regarded as one of the least desirable pitches on the route.

 

Lower down Woody and Darren climbed from their bivy at ECT to the traverse to Camp 4 while I was in attendance. Woody, unfortunately, ditched the red shirt and appeared in green today… not good Woody! Darren did the King Swing just before I arrived and looked very sporty in his blue shirt!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

 

7)  Woody working the wide section after the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

 

8)  Darren leading the classic pitch to the tension traverse to the start of the Grey Bands.

 

　

Super YMS mountain guide, Scott Stowe and client, Brit Stuart Watson blasted for the Nose this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

 

9)  Watson and Stowe hoofing it to the base of the Nose.

　

Shield: I did spot a large, WELL DRESSED, team heading up the Muir pitches to the start of the Shield this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

 

10)  Leading the Muir pitches to the start of the Shield.

　

Salathe: Les and Drew topped out this morning on this excellent and popular route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

11)  Finishing up the Salathe in first light.

　

In other news: Alik Berg, Rich Copeland, and Matt Thomsen showed up today and we all got caught up on various doings from the winter. The heroes of the Muir climb, Ryan and Roger, hung out a while too. Piton Pete and frequent climbing partner, Mark, arrived today and are fueling up for Grape Race to the Muir. They will be blasting on Friday if all goes to plan. The Bridge is still very quiet these days… the ElCap Shuttle starts Friday so the easy days of leisure are sure to end!

So that’s the way it is for this Wednesday, the 23^rd day of May, 2012.

Bye, Bye… Tom