ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 5/20/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Still the perfect weather persists! In fact a little warm up at the base of the Captain. Super season so far.

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: A party of two climbed the first couple in the shade of the morning. They were in the sun, and on the third, by the time I left around 3pm today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1)  Nice, cool climbing conditions early in the morning on Zodiac’s first pitch.

　

Higher up, the team from the past few days climbed from Lunar Ledge this morning, and were on the next to last pitch as I departed. They looked solid all the way up the climb, even though they lost a few hours yesterday in the White Circle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

2)  Running it out above Peanut Ledge, early in the afternoon.

　

LA: After fixing miles of rope, Steve and Pard didn’t show today.

　

North America Wall: The team of Austrians, who blasted yesterday, climbed to the start of the relatively easy corner system leading eventually to Big Sur ledge. They seem to be having no difficulties thus far.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Short tension traverse on the NA Wall.

　

Lower down Stuart Paul and Niek DeJonge blasted this morning after fixing a couple yesterday. This experienced team should do well.

　

　

Mescalito: Once again a team of three has morphed into a team of two.  Pete wasn't feeling the love so bailed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  This pitch has two birds on it. Can you name the birds?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Talking it over at the stance, as the afternoon shade comes on.

　

The Nose: The fashionable Austrian team topped out today around 3pm. What a pleasure to shoot climbers I can actually see without the telephoto lens!

Lower down, the Drab team of three climbed from Camp 4 this morning and were seen approaching Camp 5 by mid afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

6)  ALWAYS tie in short when jugging.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

7)  Worst Dressed Team of the Week, climbing on Pancake Flake.

 

 

The team from yesterday's "almost to Dolt tower" shot did the KS and were headed to Camp 4 as I departed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  The second short ropped himself while following but was able to just make it to the flake on the Boot to save the day!

 

 

Salathe/Freerider: The three man team from yesterday climbed above the Spire this morning and into the afternoon.

Hans and Sebastian worked on the Monster today and will come down for some ground time and another work day shortly.

Aquarian: I didn’t see the team out west today. They may have reached Thanksgiving Ledge and climbed off before I arrived. The route is now CLOSED.

In other news: My good friends, Russ and Denise, left today for home. They brought provisions and refreshments for the Bridge Crew earlier in the week, and hung out watching the show from the Bridge.

Lots of climbers in evidence at the Bridge today. Mikey Schaffer and Kate Rutherford hung around sorting gear for a photo project in the works. Posse members, Mike and Arron, relaxed here for most of the day.

My very good buddies, Mike Ousley and Gabe McNeeley, showed up in the afternoon after hauling some water to, and fixing the first on, New Dawn to Tribal Rite. It has been a while since they were up here and we enjoyed catching up on things. Jesse Huey showed up and stayed a while talking to TC and AH.

Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold were back from the Triple free ascent they did yesterday. Both looked none the worse for the experience. Their logistics’ were spot on and with the help of Becca, Tommy’s wife, the operation went down pretty much as planned. The exception was Tommy forgetting to take his climbing shoes on the hike into Watkins! Fortunately Becca came to the rescue and the climb proceeded. I think Alex said they did the SF of Watkins in 2.5 hours!! A record for that route for sure!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

9)  Tommy and Alex after the climb.

　

So that’s the way it is for this Sunday, the 20^th day of May, 2012.

Later, Tom