ElCap Report 5/16/12

ElCap Report 5/16/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Another killer day here in Yosemite. The light was not the best for photography because of pollen, heat waves, and the high angle of the sun in the sky. However, because I wanted to keep you in the action, I shot as best as I could under the conditions. The SE Face is still empty while most of the action is on the Nose and Salathe. On a more serious note… how many times have I written about the best colors to wear while climbing ElCap? That’s right Pukes, about a million!! Still… on they come with the black, brown, and tan shirts!!! Aaaaahhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!! Help me out here sports fans! The Spring shooting conditions are bad enough without having to deal with dumpster diving outfits!

Today’s ElCap Report…unique in all the world… written just for you!

Lost in America: There is a bag at the top of the first pitch and ropes up three more pitches. When will it begin?

Nose: I caught a glimpse of the party with the purple ledge as they climbed past the Glowering Spot this morning. Later I saw them at the Alcove so they will be off this afternoon late.

I saw a mixed team low in the Legs this morning and they steadily climbed to Dolt Tower by the time I departed this afternoon. The woman lead all day and hauled the bag too! She free climbed most of the pitches! Refreshing!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1)  Nice to see free climbing in the Stovelegs for a change!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Hauling kit in the Stovelegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  John Fleming climbing the pitch above Dolt Tower this morning.

Brian Sadowski and partner John Fleming started early and were moving along steadily upward on their NIAD attempt. They lost some time waiting for the Spanish team to clear the Great Roof and thus will be doing some after dark climbing.

 

3D: I got an email yesterday telling me that a mixed Spanish team was on the route. They came into my view at the Traverse to Camp 4. The woman tried to climb across the slab but seemed unsure of the route. Eventually she lowered down and did a pendulum to avoid the climbing and was able to continue. I last saw them finishing the Great Roof pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Starting the Traverse 3D.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Pendulum on the Traverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Making the long reach to the belay at the corner of the Great Roof.

 

Salathe/Freerider: Two teams climbed from Hollow Flake to the Alcove via the Monster crack. One was hauling and the other was just out for a little practice and rigged a top rope on the pitch.

Never Never Land: Mundo’s crew only had one portaledge and after a night on Timbuktu decided they would not be able to climb all the way to Thanksgiving ledge in a single day…. So … they get the Bail of the Day!

 

A few more shots for your pleasure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Morning visitors at the Bridge!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Backlit Pink Dogwoods.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Pink Dogwood close up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Bee’s at breakfast.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Yosemite Falls.

 

In other news: For reason’s known only to the honcho’s at the Puzzle Palace, the ElCap Shuttle will not start running until the Memorial Day weekend. The Ask a Climber program was not funded this year, due to some administrative SNAFU, but I will still be at the bridge doing the program for free. Donations anyone?!!

We are hoping to see greater numbers of climbers on the cliff in the next few days. We had a light winter and the Cap is very dry now … so don’t tell me you couldn’t do some climb because the crux pitch was wet!!

So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 16th day of May, 2012.

I’m out of here to watch the NBA playoffs!

Ansel Evans

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice to meet you Tom!

Thanks for the great info and photos!! Fantastic Day!
Suzi Taylor

What are the best colors for clothing?

Beautiful shots Tom. Thanks for inspiring me.
OK What are the best colors for clothing?
Bruce

First two pics

We met the "mixed team" featured in the first couple of shots, on May 14th on the Pine Line route just to the left of the usual Nose start. Seems they were confused about where to begin the Nose and so climbed Pine Line instead of the usual 4th class approach (giving them credit for an extra pitch!) I recall them saying they're from Vermont, and that the woman is the experienced member of the team. We watched her hauling yesterday, also, on the way to Dolt Tower; she's quite petite so it was impressive watching her drag their super-full pig up the wall. They seemed like a determined pair so I'm betting they'll get 'er done.

Jonesey/DosXX

Glad you're back! The pics

Glad you're back! The pics are gorgeous!

Thriving

Hey Tom,

hows the unofficial office looking ?
still available ?
i will be there may 31 - june 22 or so for starters.
can i get a spot for a weekend of work at my old desk ?

great start to ECR 2012.
keep it up.

d kidd

Great report and I am psyched

Great report and I am psyched you are back for season!

Tim Niedringhaus

Excellent!

Excellent as usual, Ansel. That bear shot is sweet!