ElCap Reports

 

 ElCap Report 5/15/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… Sweet day here in the Valley of our dreams. The weekend has brought the crowds out in force to see the blooming Dogwoods and the busting water falls. Cars were parked all over the place and the traffic was jammed until late in the evening. However, none of that had an impact on the Bridge and the action on the Captain. Horsetail falls, yesterdays scenic shot of the day, continues to enchant as it keeps the whole upper East side past Zodiac out of commission. There was plenty of climbing action in response to the excellent climbing conditions.

 So here it comes straight to you.

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…. unique in all the world.

Zodiac: Neik, the solo from Holland, showed up on the route and sadly climbed in dark clothing for most of the morning but as the temps heated up he broke out the yellow T-shirt he was sporting yesterday. He climbed well and was on the Black Tower pitch as I departed around 4:30pm. I watched him climb into the crux part above the tower itself. He took two nice whippers right back onto the top of the tower and was proceeding with caution at my last view. I just had to go… so … hope he figured it out!

Trip: The highest crew was past the bolt ladders by the time I departed and seemed to be in cruise control.

Richie and Josie swapped leads and will get three done today.  Ain't love great?!

Bryn and Chris were going kind of slow after a late start and later in the day caused a dust up for the NPS…. Explained below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Starting the 6^th on the Trip.

Mescalito: Tommy and Mikael dusted off the Molar Traverse and climbed a few higher by the time I was out of there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tommy sticking the Molar Pendulum on Mescalito.

Genesis: Kate and EE most likely made ElCap Tower late in the day. They are climbing well enough and seem to be in a relaxed mode… hard not to be with EE on the team!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kate, in that damned black shirt, leading just below the top of ECT.

Nose: The wall style teams moved along smartly high on the route today and were blown through by a couple of NIAD teams, one of which was really fast and looked to be doing a lot of free climbing. Another wall style team was just past the King Swing as I departed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wall Style team on the last pitch of the Nose.

 KFC started at 8am this morning in hopes of doing a sub 24 hour solo ascent of the route. He climbed well, utilizing a self belay system, all the way past Dolt Tower but had to retire when he got cramps in his hands and was unable to proceed safely.  He carried 3 liters of water but strangely didn't drink any.  Cause and effect?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

KFC speeding along in the Legs.

There was a wall style team that KFC passed at the top of Sickle. They were hurting for time and technique and I trust retired miles from Dolt late in the day.

Muir: The local woman’s team showed up on the upper part of the wall today and climbed with speed and efficiency all day. They most likely will bivy near or on the so called “ledge for one” at the base of the long, final dihedral.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Holly leading the pendulum pitch with Lorna at the belay.

Shield: The team of three guys I saw yesterday were not going for the Muir but this Charley Porter Mega Classic. I saw them climb the pitch above the roof and moved smartly up the Groove pitch as I left…. these guys are Gil, Logan and Sean from Boulder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Morning high on the Shield.

Salathe: This route was pretty full above the Alcove as the parties moved past the slime pitch headed to the Block. Looked like three teams.

Out west Lurking Fear I did spot a team just finishing the Grand Traverse pitch but they were hauling a bag so I guessed it was not Jesse and Roger who were not to be seen due to the poor viewing angle I had. Lance and Big Andy bailed from the base as Lance was struck with an attack of vertigo. He has a head cold and I think his inner ears are affected.

Scenic shot of the Day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

 

 

In other news: The bridge was pretty busy with mostly climbers today. Gene and Soren showed up the Cobras and consumables as did Scott once again. Lots of climbers drifted in and out including Cedar and Nick, who were down from Golden Gate for a little R and R. The list of luminaries is too long to list here, but it was good to see the gang out in force.

Around 2pm the area was awash in rangers, who had been informed by various Tourons that a team on the wall was in danger and were waving a large red flag. Another reported seeing flashes from a “signal mirror”. Of course the boys in green had to respond and that they did. They knew, of course, what was going on but a quick check with Scott Stowe and me confirmed their thoughts. The lower team on the Trip was hauling their ledge open with the bags and the wind was spinning the kit around… thus the waving flag reported. Also sunlight was being reflected off some 4 inch cams on their rack and thus the signal mirror!! We had a good laugh over it and the rescue was called off!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Help, Help!!!!   We're dying up here!!!   Can't you see our red flag and  signal mirror?!!

On that note….

So that’s the way it is for this the 15 day of May, 2010.

Come on out and share the madness!!

Later Tom