ElCap Report 10/29/11

ElCap Report 10/29/11
By Tom Evans

Yo…Spectacular day to hang out or climb on the Captain.  Tommy got started on the send on his route this morning.  Will and Sonnie were up on the Prophet doing some work on their quest to send it.  Ryan and Trevor were high on Freerider working on the send.  The Nose is empty.  Alik Berg is down from the Tempest.  Read all about it below!  Thanks Curt for the DVD’s I really needed and appreciate.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Prophet:  Sonnie, Will and (?) were seen rapping in and putting in some time working the upper section of the route.
1)  Will rapping down to Sonnie below the Devil’s Brow.




























Zodiac:  The BC team spent the night on Lunar Ledge, which is just a short distance from Zodiac and a good ledge if you can’t make Peanut.  Later they climbed to Peanut and were seen on the next to the last pitch as I departed late in the afternoon.
2)  Traverse back to Zodiac from Lunar Ledge.






























3)  Traversing the bolts to the start of the ramp leading to Peanut.





























Trip:  Matt and Daryl made it to the first bolt ladder by the time I left today and will be off tomorrow.
4)  Matt starting the first of the two long bolt ladders high on the Trip.






























NA Wall:  The Ranger team of Ben, Jesse, and Harrison, climbed to Big Sur and Jesse was seen leading out on the traverse to the Black Dihedral late in the afternoon.  Assume he is fixing and they will stay on Big Sur tonight.
5)  Jesse (yellow shirt) and Harrison, on Big Sur this afternoon.





























TC’s Project:  Tommy and wife Becca started early this morning and had done 4 pitches by the time I saw them.  There is also a filming crew of Ben Ditto and Sender Films, Kyle who were sometimes just a couple of feet from Tommy, as he climbed.  Unfortunately, that put them in several of my shots too.  Don’t they have zoom lenses?!  It must be somewhat unnerving to be doing 5.13D with a photographer breathing down your neck!!  No matter, as Tommy climbed strongly and quickly up extremely strenuous and delicate climbing and sent the pitches without any falls!  He looked very deliberate and his lower body work was exceptional.  A great start to the hoped for send!
Tommy rested, on Stork Ledge, until the shade came late in the afternoon.  I switched to deep shade white balance and shot on.  Unfortunately, the warm afternoon air between Tommy and I was shimmering badly from time to time and my shots went from sharp to blurry in a matter of seconds!  So I shot a lot to get the few good ones the air didn’t obscure.  Aid climbers, over the past several weeks have changed the route a bit and key holds are gone.  However he worked out other combinations and for the 13+ and 14- pitches.
6)  Tommy starting the 5th pitch with Becca on the belay.






























7)  A rest stance higher on the 5th pitch.





























8)  Climbing over the face of the Stork just off the ledge.





























9)  Move to the longer corner, on the 6th pitch.





























10)  Hard moves off the corner high on the 6th pitch.






























11)  Freerider:  Ryan Baker and Trevor climbed from the Block this morning and were last seen late in the afternoon traversing under the Roof.
Ryan at the belay late in beautiful afternoon light.





























12)  View from the Bridge this morning.




























In other news:  Various heroes of recent ascents and many other climbers were hanging around the EC meadow all day.  It was a fun time.  Alik Berg was down from his solo of Tempest and commented that it wasn’t too bad!
Paul and Tom were down from New Dawn and found the route to be really beautiful, especially up high.  The Montana boys were down from the PO, after bailing due to time constraints and lack of motivation.  Nathan and Chris were here from their 17hr on sight of the Nose two days ago.  Glen and Meg, keepers of the Yellow pack, were down this morning.  
The heroes of the Scorched Earth climb were sorting gear in the afternoon and posed for a few shots.  Some really hot women were hanging around, making all the youngsters quite excited too!

13)  Skiy Detray, Ammon McNeeley, and Dave Allfrey posed for this shot after the record climb of 22:28 on Scorched Earth two days ago.




























Skiy got to lead the dreaded “Leavittator” pitch in the middle of the night.  It goes at 5.11 A-4 and varies from Knife blade size to 11 inches.  Skiy used the classic, wooden block, big friend combination to overcome the intimidating off width.

14)  Skiy and the Wood!



























The Tommy show is to continue for many more days.  Also the Hans, Hondo speed climb is coming soon.  The Prophet is under assault by a strong team, and the NA is getting some much needed refitting.  Glory Days!!  The best days of our lives!!
So that’s the way it is, for this beautiful Saturday, the 29th day of October, 2011.
The report may be late or not happen tomorrow as I have to shoot real late in the evenings now …so …stay tuned!
Later, Tom


no pictures of the hotties?

no pictures of the hotties? :-(

Tom, That's so interesting


That's so interesting about the light and also the effect heat has on the air and your ability to focus on the wall!


Skiy give me wood...


Sweet report, Tom! Nice to finally see TC in action!

Third on NA Wall

After talking with Ben as we descended from our climb of the NA Wall, he said that they were taking some bigwig from the Park Service up the route, so maybe that's the third. Thanks for the great shots Tom.