ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/27/11
By Tom Evans

Yo…Cool and clear here in the center of the rock climbing world.  Excellent air today made for some really good photography for old Tom.  It was cold in the shade but we kept warm by yelling encouragement to teams on the wall.  We got to see some speedy climbing via a NIAD and by the push team on Scorched Earth.  So tighten your harness, check your knots, chalk up and come with me to all the action on the Captain today.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you….unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The mixed team from BC climbed the BT this morning and were at the start of the center pitch on the Circle when I departed.  They will be a little slower than the average team but will still be just fine.

Higher up the mixed team from Montana climbed well again today and were Peanut Ledge bound when I departed.
1)  ElCap Salute on the Mark of Zorro pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Climbing past the Devil’s Brow on Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trip:  Matt and Daryl didn’t blast yesterday as thought so they were not very far along today when I arrived.  They climbed the beautiful 5th pitch and were at the start of the 7th when I left.
3)  Starting the day on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Scorched Earth:  Ammon, Dave, and Skiy came into view around 11am on their push of this route.  They are hoping for a one day ascent.  Ammon’s block was all I saw today and assume the others will be hitting the gear later on.  Ammon took a whipper on the 4th pitch as a hook popped off a tenuous placement.  He was trying to avoid having to use the 8ft cheater stick, called for on the topo.  It didn’t work….so… just for you Bro… unavoidable but still!!!
STICK OF THE DAY!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Later in the afternoon, Ammon lead up to a good stance on interesting rock called the Poison Pill.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PO Wall:  The Montana crew fixed a pitch this early this morning and by 10am had decided to take the rest of the day off.  So they sat there, reading a book, eating some, sunning themselves or having a beer.
6)  Free day on the PO.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tempest:  Alik is way up there now and the angle and contours of the rock made for poor photography so I don’t have anything to post here.  He is rolling along as, usual.

New Dawn:  Paul and Tom entered the wonderful rock higher on the route this morning.  They moved along and will be on the good ledge, 2 from the top, tonight.
7)  Long view of entrance to upper dihedral.  Reticent goes right here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Paul climbing into the big corner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Tom leading toward the Dawn Roof later in the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Nose:  Not many teams on the Nose today.  The mixed three person team bivied at Camp 5 and were gone from there by the time I set up.  The two person mixed team, of Glen and Meg  started out from Camp 4 this morning and made it to Camp 5 by 3pm.   The yellow pack still has Meg strapped to it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A NIAD team, of Chris and Nathan climbed well up to the Gray Bands where they slowed a bit.  The King Swing was pretty scrappy for the team but went after some tripping and falling.  They were on the GR as I departed.
11)  Climbing the nice Jam above DT.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Nice moves on the Boot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  I did see the team of Trevor and Ryan Baker, climbing to Hollow Flake via the free down climb and assume they are going for Freerider.  However, they were slow and were a couple below the Ear when I left.

In other news:  The great weather holds and teams are continuing to climb so we are continuing to watch.  Saturday is the day for Tommy to start his climb.  We expect Hans and Hondo any time from Sunday to Tuesday for their run at the Nose record.  
Fall is just about done here.  The Maple tree is almost bare on the lower branches but still has some color up high.  The Oaks and Aspens on the Valley floor are bare.  I hear the East side is having a spectacular Fall so maybe a jaunt over there is in order.
So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 27th day of October, 2011.
Be safe, but have fun!
Tom