ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/23/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Sunny and warm, as usual this Fall!  The action has faded a bit.  The number of climbs that are being soloed is equal to the number being climbed by teams!  They are all open, waiting for you to show up!  I hear from my source, deep in the Alex, Hans camp, that the speed record attempt will be this coming Thursday.  So be here or miss another big event here in the Valley.

 
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The solo did show today but just to fix and move kit to the top of the 4th pitch.  He has obligations for the next week so don’t expect to see him for a while.

ZM:  Alex showed up late in the morning and was working on another pitch as I departed.
1)  Alex jugging up his fixed lines this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tempest:  Alik had his normal leisurely morning, then got cleaning the Sharks Fin, which he fixed yesterday.  He moves along smoothly, seemingly without much effort, doing all that has to be done to keep the climb going for the long haul.  He climbed the pitch above, the one before the Rubber Band Man pendulum, in about half an hour.  He will most likely do the pendulum pitch later in the evening.
2)  Alik cleaning the Sharks Fin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Alik at the belay starting  the pendulum pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  Paul and Tom are on their way to one of the best ledges, Lay Lady Ledge, on the Captain.  They are climbing well and are planning on a leisurely ascent, so don’t be expecting the record to be broken!
4)   Climbing the corners below LLL.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:   Solo Dan did two pitches yesterday and I spotted him this morning just two from the top.   I saw him climbing into the Alcove around 2:30pm and suppose he will push to the top today.  It has been a long and timely climb for Dan in adverse conditions and situations.  He will most likely climb to the top late this evening.
5)  Dan, high up on the route, climbing to the Alcove.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yesterday, the two teams that could have reached him today both bailed at the start of the Great Roof!  Yep, the locals making up the “Rescue crew”  were wasted by late afternoon and bailed.  The mixed couple on the 3D also came down.  All reported it was kind of warm up there… yeah, right…try it in July or August some time!!

The two teams, one with three climbers and one with two, climbed from ECT and were seen leading the Great Roof as I left.  The two man team of John and Scott, is trailing along behind the three man team and will most likely not pass.
6)  Two man team leader, John, getting ready to pendulum into the Gray Bands traverse ledge.  Rear guard of the three man team is on the ledge to the left.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Three man team leading the Great Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shield:  Much to my surprise, I spotted the Shield team below the Groove, even though they had climbed and hauled it yesterday!  So….that didn’t bode well for them.  Sure enough they were bailing from high on the route.   I couldn’t believe it!!  They are solid climbers and were moving right along yesterday.  It is usually far easier to go up than down at that point.  They down aided some and clipped stuff on rappel and were soon enough down to the Gray Ledges!  Very well done…but…you know…. it is still a bail…and thus they get the…
8)  BAIL OF THE DAY!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Shield.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  A coincidence of course, but Royal mentioned at last nights lecture, that it was a shame the original pendulum to Sous le toit is no longer done, because he felt it was a really good one.  So guess what?  The Yellow team, from yesterday, actually did the original pendulum!!  I have never seen it done in all the years I have been shooting!!  They were headed to the Roof as I departed.  They have only a large pack for baggage.
10)  Original pendulum to Sous le toit ledge!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Heading for the Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down a team dressed in white ground their way up from Lung ledge and were still miles from the Ear when I departed.

12)  Forest floor debris near the Bridge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Very quiet at the Bridge today, no Tourons, and hardly a climber to be seen.  The weather is spectacular but the number of climbers belies it.  Guess the season is closing out but not without some good action still to come.  The Nose speed record is on the block,  also the Prophet crew is still working, and Tommy is around too.  So stay tuned for more action, if somewhat limited, on the Report.
So that’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 23rd day of October, 2011.
Later
Tom