ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/22/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Indian Summer continues with its warm sunlit days and cool starlit nights.  The Tree is maxed out now and will be done within the week, hiding in plain sight for the next year or so, until we are drawn to it once again.  We’ve had a wonderful Fall climbing season, the best in recent memory.  The high drama continues on the Captain for a few weeks more and then most of the climbers will depart for other places near and far.  So enjoy these last few Reports, for the winter will soon take me away, and the long, welcomed silence, will permeate the Valley once again.

 
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Prophet:  I did see Will and Sonnie up there on the upper reaches of the climb, working on the exit from the A-1 beauty.  Later it looked like they were clearing their lines and going off the route.

Zodiac:  Yesterday Alex Buisse easily fixed the first three pitches on this classic route.  He was down at the Bridge for a time today before heading up with the rest of his kit.  I think he starts tomorrow.

ZM:  Another solo climber is on the route now.  He fixed one yesterday and climbed two more while I was there today.  He is Alex Evans, fresh from the Shield last week.  
1)  Alex on Zenyatta’s third pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tempest:  Alik Berg is moseying along this excellent, difficult route.  He seems to like to stay in bed late and climb at a relaxed, unhurried pace.
2)  Alik adjusts this line on the 5th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  This recently popular route has two suitors on it now.  Paul Gagner and Tom Dickey blasted today after hauling kit and fixing a couple over the last few days.

Nose:  I spotted Solo Dan, getting ready to depart Camp 5, as I arrived this morning.  His encounter with the 3D team late slowed him down so he was not able to climb as much as he had planned.  The 3D team went on, leaving him to his own devices.  I last spotted him leading the Changing Corners pitch in mid afternoon.  Good climbing up there ahead for Dan.  

3)  Dan preparing to leave Camp 5 this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Dan climbing the Changing Corners pitch this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Higher up I spotted the 3D soloist, Mason Robison, from the last few days, leading the last pitch.  He, still shirtless, quickly climbed and hauled the last pitch by 1pm and was soon gone from view.
5)  3D solo, Mason Robison, climbing off the greatest climb on the Captain.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I spotted the three man team, Domen, Emory, and Ian, doing a push on the route, at ECT this morning.  They started around 10 last night and were looking a bit worse for wear by afternoon.  They were at Camp 4 by 3pm and have a long way to go.  Dan may be off the route by the time the “rescue crew” tops out!!  At Camp 4 they encountered a mixed team coming over from the 3D, a very popular route these days.
6)  Ian is flaked out on Texas Flake, and he is the one belaying!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Emory grabbing the tiger by the tail on the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down several teams worked their way up the Legs  with a party of three in the lead of a party of two.  A couple of guys bailed from Dolt by mid morning.

Shield:  The team of Ian and Tino climbed the long pitch to the Groove this morning and were finishing it, as I departed.
8)  Clearing the belay on the Shield.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Starting the infamous Groove pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  A team dressed in smart yellow shirts climbed to Hollow Flake and above this morning.  They were on the pitch above the Ear when I last saw them.
10)  Belayer utilizing the new belaying craze sweeping the climbing world.  It is known as the “lying down, asleep belay”… all the rage in the high mountains these days, I hear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Starting the Ear pitch, Salathe Wall Route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Higher up a team climbed over the Roof this afternoon and onto the headwall with Long Ledge in their sights for tonight.
Clearing the Roof pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  I just returned from the 50th anniversary celebration, of the climbing of the Salathe Wall.  There was an excellent crowd in attendance, who were very appreciative of Royal and Tom’s presentation.  Inspiring to see the giants of that generation in person, and listen to them talk about the good times they shared on the Great Rock.  Robbins and Frost, one of the great partnerships of American climbing!  Alas, the remarkable Chuck Pratt, the third member of the team, died several years ago and is remembered as one of the great climbers of Yosemite climbing history.
The Bridge was a great hang today, as it always seems to be.  Lots of climbers came and went in the splendid weather.
So that’s the way it is, for this Saturday, the 22nd day of October, 2011.
Back to Camp 4 for me now….
Later Tom