ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/19/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… The weather continues to please and will do so for the foreseeable future the boys at NOAA predict.  So this it is …. The last run at the season before the winds of November blow in the cold and wet.  Replacements haven’t shown up in any numbers although there are a few teams talking the talk but we will see if they can do the walk to match it.  The SE Face is literally empty at the moment…so pick your poison!

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Prophet:  Will Stanhope and Sonnie Trotter have had a few days working the top part of the route and recently decided to have a go at the first 5 pitches.  They showed up today in nice colored shirts and had a go at it, and by what I saw had a good day!  Both looked strong and confident.  I would love to see them do a ground up run before the season closes out.
1)  Will on the 4th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Sonnie on the 5th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ZM:  Regan was just a couple from the top as I left early this afternoon.  He is past the major difficulties and should be off tonight or early tomorrow.  Looked like he had a smooth climb.  I didn’t get any good shots of him today.
Lower down a guy climbed to the end of the first pitch, and hauled bags.  He made two moves off the belay and got the coveted …. You guess it!
BAIL OF THE DAY!
3)  ZM climber on the second move of pitch two.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A well know Canadian climber is hauling kit to the base of  Tempest for a solo climb.

Nose:  The two man team from yesterday vanished today and I assume were in the Changing Corners area, out of my view for my time at the Bridge today.
Lower down:  Solo Dan climbed to the Tan Band and was going back to the belay to hauling kit to the start of the Gray Bands when I left.  I talked to several climbers today who have encountered him on the route and they say he has about 9 days of supplies and I think this is day 5 or 6 for him.  So Dan needs to get on his pony and ride.
4)  Dan on the Tan Band.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down in the legs I spotted a team of two climbing toward Dolt Tower.  They just might sweep up Dan on the way by in a couple of days, if necessary.  It won’t do much good for him if they just hike his ropes up a pitch or two.

Shield:  Ian and Tino headed for their kit on Heart ledge today for a late season shot at this recently popular route.

Golden Gate:  There seems to be one party left on the route now.  They would be Luka and partner Nastja.  Luka was leading above the Tower and looked strong while I watch him.
5)  Luka and Nastja doing the Golden Desert pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Luka, the last man on Golden Gate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  I did see a team high on the route at Suis le Toit in the morning.  Far down below a team of two climbed from Lung ledge toward the Ear as I was leaving.

Dihedral:  Word reached me at the Bridge this afternoon that a two man team out there bailed yesterday, due to the heat.  I didn’t get out there to take a look.
 
7)  The Tree.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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9)  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Climbers from recent ascents stopped by the Bridge to hang out and tell of their climbs today.  Very nice day here with cool breezes and warm sunlight.  A team of three, Jordan, Aaron, and Mike say they are going to do a push on Eagles Way tomorrow.  They are going to die!
So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 19th day of October, 2011.
Enjoy the Fall folks.
Tom