ElCap Report 10/19/09

ElCap Report 10/19/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Heavy weather has rolled into the valley now and I am waiting it out here in the café with all the other people who are afraid to get wet!  It was partly cloudy this morning, so I went out and shot a few trees and such, then  went down to the Bridge to see what was up on the Captain.  Progress was being made and it looked like it might be just another day on the Big Stone. 
However as Scott Stowe, Billy Russell, and I were watching the proceedings, a nasty rain squall drove down on us, hard from the west.  A harbinger of Doom!  It seemed to be a surprise to everyone on the Wall.  The details are found below.

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…. Unique in all the world!

 First are some shots from around the Valley today.
Today’s storm from Cooks meadow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dogwood leaves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dogwood leaves 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Base of Upper Yosemite Falls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sentinel Rock in Fall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zodiac:  The team of Adam and Alex were mid pitch on the Mark of Zorro when the deluge hit and the leader quickly returned to the belay under the Mark.  I think they are safe from the rain there, but they have a ledge and fly anyway, so they are fine.
White Circle with Adam and Alex at the top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below them, the team of Graham and a Chilean  buddy, were on the 4th pitch trying to get a jump on the 3 person team fixed to 3.  They were also hit hard with the middle of operations and looked pretty wet by the time they got the 4th hauled and cleaned.  I am guessing they will fix and return to the ground to wait it out with the rest of us.

The Trip:  Althea seems to have figured the day out in advance and never stirred from her ledge.  She climbed 3 pitches yesterday and is well positioned on the route.

The Nose:  The slow party of three Norwegians did make C4 yesterday and were climbing on the Roof when the rain started.  I saw them holed up at the belay on the pitch into C5.  They had rain stuff on and were just waiting.
Turning the roof before the storm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below them the team that were taking some time in the Legs yesterday, climbed to ElCap Tower and were standing there in the pouring rain when I left.  They did seem to have rain gear on.
Changing gear at the belay above Dolt Tower before the storm hit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Shield:  I saw the leader, Walker, of the combined team, climb to Chickenhead ledge, late in the morning.  But the other 3 guys were two pitches down with all the bags!  They were hauling loads when the sky caved and were not ready for it.  The wind came up and the rain was torrential, and  they were stuck out in the open but just kept working.  Walker came down to help and after a time they put up one ledge and fly but the other fly was flapping furiously in the gale and they couldn’t seem to get control of it for a long time.  About a half hour after the rain started they seemed to have gained control of the fly and set it on their other ledge.  They are split up, a pitch apart. 

Salathe:  I didn’t actually see anyone over there but the Solo should be on the Block, as I write these words.  I will go down later to see what is up with him.  I believe all the other teams are off by now.

Feature of the Day:  Yesterdays was the Seagull on Eagles Way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Regan left today and the Swedes, Petter and Stefan, are headed out tomorrow.  Wes and Turi from the “Dropped rack crew” also departed.  They will all be missed and maybe we will see them here next year.  The rain has continued, though somewhat reduced, into the afternoon.  The forecast looks good for tomorrow and the coming days.  The rain is also bringing down the colorful leaves on many trees.  My Tree is past its prime now and I stopped to get a few last shots before all its beautiful leaves are gone. 
The two teams on the Nose appear to be the only ones with no rain flies and ledges to get into.  It could be a long day and night for these lads.  Good luck guys!  Hunker down…. Be brave…

So that’s the way it is for this the 19th day of October, 2009.
Stay dry, stay warm… stay tuned.
Later Tom
 

Duty

Tom,

Cheers. I write this from my buddies back porch in Santa Cruz. The sun is shining and it's a beautiful day, but I'm missing the valley life already. The rainy morning yesterday made leaving a bit easier. Turi and I stopped by a climbing store before San Fransisco, and he bought up every last Alien that they had. He kept saying, "I climbed the Nose AND got some Aliens. My trip is now complete!" I'll be stoked to sip on Lodge coffee once again come next May.

The below quote was posted above our battalion in big brass letters. For 4 years, we used to laugh every time that we walked past, but as time goes by, it seems to make a little more sense. One might even be able to argue that it is applicable to climbing on The Captain! Thanks again for relentless hardwork and dedication.

“Do your duty in all things. You cannot do more, you should never wish to do less.”

Respectfully,

Wes Walker

rock fall shots

Tom, I thought you said that you got some shots of the recent rock falls. I was hoping to see those...these pictures of autumn make want to live in Yosemite year round.

Regans report

the lad tells me it will be about a week from now.

Prod Sez!

Any word on Regans TR?

And Great work as usual Tom.

Prod.

party of 3 norvegian

Hi Tom,
Thank you very much for your reports and comments. In the party of the 3 norvegian, thereis my son, Vincent (who is actually French). Thanks to your site, I know the weather is bad. I did the nose myself in 1990 and I hope the weather is going to get better for the 9 pitches they still have to climb. It is very reassuring that someone is watching them. Thanks again for your eyes. Please carry on commenting, it is extremly precious to me and Vincent's mother.

Jean-Louis Martinez
mjlx1@aliceadsl.fr

Feature

The carrot, on Tribal Rite?

Feature

Reticent

Hmmm

Nah, man you stumped me the last two in a row!
Bone

Feature

Bottom of the Black Dihedral? PO skirts left?
Lambone

Thanks tons Tom!

Thanks Tom. You are such a trooper and a partner!!

Peter Haan

Yay Tom!

Thanks for the update!!! Love those shots of beautiful Yosemite in wet fall.
-cleo (Val)

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