ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/18/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Great day here but late in the afternoon the wind came up and some rather sinister clouds scudded in, low from the west.  Very quiet at the Bridge and on the Captain too.  The Fall colors continue to amaze and it seems like they have lots of life in them too… so get here!  My tree is at max power now and every leaf is a beautiful red/orange.  Sweet!!

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…. Unique in all the world!!

Zodiac:  David and Carmen climbed rapidly off the route by early afternoon.
Last night they Bivied on Lunar Ledge which is just off the route.
Carmen getting ready to leave Lunar Ledge, as David looks on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They made a 2 bivy ascent of the route and David really showed himself to be a top notch climber as he climbed quickly, confidently and had the bags hauled in very short order.  Carmen is a lucky lady to have such a partner.  She cleaned extremely well and seemed at ease on the route.  Good team, these!
David leading the pitch above Peanut Ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down Andy and Alex climbed into the white circle this morning and were about to lead the Nipple pitch, when I left at 3:30.

The team of three who fixed yesterday took today off and left an opening for a team of two to slide in and take the lead tomorrow. 

Trip:  Althea climbed the 7th today and was doing the 8th as I left.  She seems to have gotten her systems going better today and will bivy at the top of the slab pitch.
Althea returning to the belay at the start of the 7th pitch on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Althea leading off on the 8th pitch on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

North American Wall:  Kevin Andrews (recently soloed the Albatross) and a partner, Cooney, are fixing on this historic route.

Nose:  The party of three Norwegians, who dragged up to Dolt yesterday, took the Jardine Traverse this morning and were last seen dragging up to the Grey Bands.  If it rains those boys aren’t going to be happy.  The rest of the route is vacant.

Shield:  The Solo, Walker, and a team of three Americans, have joined forces and climbed from the end of the Roof to the top of the Triple Cracks.  It changed to windy and cold in early afternoon so they are bundled up and keeping the ropes in the bags.  They are working a good 4 man system that should serve them well.
Big Air jugging on the Shield!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hauling freight on the Shield Headwall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe/Freerider:  The three man Euro team was seen this afternoon on the last part of the Freerider and just might get off this afternoon late. 
The team of two who climbed over the Headwall yesterday, were seen at the top around 1pm today.

A team of two Germans climbed rapidly up to the Roof and around the corner on Freerider.  They may be off today.
Down below I saw the Solo in the vicinity of the Block as I left.

I did talk to the powerful Swedish Team , Petter and Stefan today, and they said the high humidity and moist condition of the cracks made going for the Salathe free climb out of the question.  They did send the Teflon corner after a couple of tries and climbed off on Freerider, sending that route, but were somewhat disappointed that the Headwall was out of condition.  You would be hard pressed to find a couple of nicer guys, or better climbers!

Feature of the Day:  Yesterdays was the Pinnacle of Hammerdom with PTPP the climber at its base.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  May get some rain tonight so some of the climbers are holding off to see just what happens.  As you can see from the Report above, the rock is pretty empty, so if you are interested in a last go at the Captain then tomorrow is your day to get on it.
Idiot of the Day:  These Tourons drove past the “do not park beyond this boundary sign” markers, turned around in the meadow and parked facing ElCap so they could view more of the face without having to get out of their car!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They had been parked there about a half hour when I spotted a ranger SUV headed my way, and flagged him down.  I explained the situation and he drove over and yelled out the window that they couldn’t park there and needed to get back on the road…. And he then drove off!  I couldn’t believe it!  If the parked suv had been a climber he would have been on the ground, cuffed and his vehicle searched!!  At the very least he would have gotten a ticket.  I was very disappointed as cars in the meadow should be a big deal… apparently not, for those not fitting the “Profile”!
So that’s the way it is for this the 18th of October, 2009.
Later Tom