ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/14/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Another sweet one in the books!  Still on the warm side, however, we did get some relief later in the afternoon when a high, thin layer of clouds crept in.  More action than I can relate as I was not able to cover the whole rock once again.  However, I did get some killer shots today.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Zack and Everett did finish their push early this morning, stopping for a while at Peanut Ledge to chat with Dave and Chris.
Dave and Chris did make Peanut ledge for their bivy and were off the route by 3pm.  
1)  Chris Belino leading the “Slab pitch”, the scene of several big plunges in the past.  The largest I saw was Russ Metrovich taking a 45 footer when he back cleaned everything before falling off the sidewalk on its’ left end!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zenyatta Mondatta:  Regan continues to get in two a day on this popular, harder route.  He will have the Lightning Bolt Roofs to do in the morning.
Regan’s old school rope technique can lead to piles of rope uncoiling if one is not careful.  These days, up to date solo climbers like the continuous loop method, as it is much more convenient and the climber doesn’t have to carry tons of rope with them.
2)  Regan dealing….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lost in America:  Josh and Brett are moving well on this popular SE Face route.  I am not sure who is who but I like the guy in yellow!!  They were at the start of the so called “Mandatory Free pitch” when I left.
3)  Interesting rock on Lost in America.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nico and Sean’s expedition across the SE Face:  They were parked at the top of the GFF for most of the day and came out in early afternoon to see what could be done to keep on free climbing.  Nico’s, fiery redheaded, girlfriend came by to watch and shout encouragement to the dynamic duo.  However, it didn’t look good up there as Nico became an aid climber for the most part.  They have a couple more days food and water and then will have to climb off via some aid line.
4)  Nico the aid climber.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

North America Wall:  The Lithuanian couple, Saule and Gedas, were first across the traverse to the Black Dihedral and were followed closely by the Mike’s, who graciously let them pass yesterday afternoon.
5)  Mike doing some back cleaning while Mike belays in the middle of the traverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SSPO:  Mark lead out of the Central Latitudes this morning and Max pushed the lead into the Bearing Straights this afternoon.  This just might be the oldest team ever on this route!  Anyway, they are looking solid and should be off on schedule.  The bad thing is that their porters for the descent left town yesterday and I haven’t managed to find replacements.  See me at the Bridge if you are interested in making some $$$$ and helping out some old codgers get down from the Cap!
6)  Mark passing through the Central Latitudes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Max leading in the Bearing Straights.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mescalito:  Christian and Mike knocked down more pitches than I estimated yesterday and were finishing the Molar traverse when I arrived this morning.  Later they lead the nasty 5.9 wide crack above.
8)  Finishing the Molar traverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  Everyone got along fine on Wino Tower last night and this morning the two teams switched places, with the Reticent team going left and the ND team going right.

Reticent:  Callum manned up and lead one of the crux pitches today.  He looked like an aid climber as he littered the pitch with screamers that were, fortunately, not tested.  A very nice lead to watch.
9)  Reticent to the left and New Dawn to the right.  They will cross paths twice again higher up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The King is pretty empty these days.  There was a party who climbed up to ECT and appeared to be fixing a pitch higher as I departed.  Also the Green team from the last few days topped out around noon as did Ashley and Trevor.  Lower down I did see some climbers milling around on the first few and a bag hauled to Sickle but that is about it.  Tomorrow should bring some more of the crews out.

Shield:  Alex, Josh, and Andy are running the three man system very nicely and should be on Chickenhead by now.  Rumor has it that they were planning on to top today… so… full moon will help but the fatigue will be setting in about the time the moon comes up.
10)  Alex, Josh, and Andy soon to be passing the famous canoe, high on the Shield.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Down below I spotted the team of Piton Pete and partner Ian as they passed over the roof and on to the headwall.  Their kit is pretty compact, for Pete that is, and Ian did a nice job on the Roof pitch.  Pete was finishing the long C1 pitch to the Groove when I left.

Sunkist:  The crew that appeared to be working on El Corazon after Petter and Stefan worked it moved off to the west today and I figure they were going for Sunkist.  Nice, photogenic route that and I hope they are indeed on it.
11)  Bags moving west…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

El Corazon:  I didn’t have the angle to see if Petter and Stefan were up on the higher chimneys yet, so I can’t say what is up with them.

Salathe:  Several teams were on the route today.  High up I saw a team of three make the top late in the morning.  A team went from the Block to the headwall and were headed to Long Ledge when I left this afternoon.
12)  Sometimes it pays to just let go!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down there were three teams who came up from Hollow Flake.  The lead team was a mixed team who were very smartly dressed… must be Euro’s, as the locals seem to be draped in the worst garb in recent memory.
13)  This woman isn’t afraid to haul the mail!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The other teams made the Ear by afternoon and are most likely on the Spire or at the Alcove for the night.

In other news:  Beautiful days here now, but still no Fall colors… maybe it is still late summer and the trees know it better than us.  The bridge was fun today as a load of climbers hung out and talked smack all afternoon.  The Touron population has dwindled considerably now that the EC Shuttle is no longer operating.
So that’s the way it is, for this Friday, the 14th day of October, 2011.
Bye, Bye…
Tom