ElCap Report 10/12/2014

ElCap Report 10/12/14 

By Tom Evans

Yo…Tons of shots on the report today, as we finally have some interesting routes being done, aside from the usual trade routes.  Not that there’s anything wrong with climbing trade routes!  Today was the, second, and last Moon Day for the Fall climbing season.  Look below to see the shot.

I am running a day behind on the report…not because I don’t do them every day, but the internet has been out a lot lately and I have not been able to post them.  Hope this one gets on line pretty soon!

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

PSD:  Erik, Dana, and Charlie are moving along but seem to be ensnared in ropes and bags at the belays.  But they are getting it done, as expected.

1)  Here they are atop the pyramid at the end of the black rock, this afternoon.
































2)  Surgeon General:  Marek lead the second pitch while I was shooting today… a good sign, as he bailed from the top of the first several years ago, right after the huge avalanche that blasted off the upper east side… go Marek!!!






























3)  Zodiac: The three man team, are utilizing the advantages of the system, and keep a leader out most of the time.  Unfortunately they need to get over earth tone clothing!  Here they are breaking the bivy in the center of the Circle, this morning.





























4) Tangerine Trip:  The solo on the Trip is Neal Davis and he is looking good.  He took a pretty good plunge off the 5th pitch yesterday but that doesn’t seem to be bothering him.  Here he is finishing the 6th pitch.





























Kitty and Karen bailed late yesterday, as Karen had an ankle injury that wouldn’t be quiet.

5)  Highway to Hell:  Jim Beyer showed up on the route today to finish the lower part.  I talked to him the other day and he is looking around, above that start, for something that interests him.






























6)  Mescalito:  Skot lead the Molar Pendulum and I got this shot as he finished doing more of a tension traverse than a pendulum.  Jon lead the pitch to the start of the 5.9 corner which Skot finished off while I was departing.





























7)  Native Son:  Jordan got the call again and lead the spectacular “Wing” pitch this morning.  Here he is nearing the end of the overhanging part.  Smooth Jordan, smooth!





























8)  Adam got the next pitch with some thin aiding up to the junction with the Iron Hawk A4 traverse.





























9)  Tempest:  Paul got a rather nebulous lead this morning, and in the afternoon Jeremy, seen here, lead the pitch to the start of the Quinlan Corner.  Those guys are cruising it thus far.






























The Nose is still the most crowded route these days but the parties are mostly staying out of each other’s way.

10)  Jim Shimberg releasing the bags from the start of the Great Roof pitch.






























11)  “Yellow Bag Team” running for the top in early afternoon.





























12)  Grape Race to Tribal.  The “Stealth Brothers” are grinding their bags to powder on the longest slap on the Cap.  Here they are hauling freight...how’s that working for you guys?  Where is the “Dolt Cart” when you really need it?!





























Muir:  Several teams are using the pitches above Mammoth to get to the Shield, 3D, and the Muir.

13)   Mark and Alice are seen here climbing from the bottom of the route.  Alice is leading here, where the Muir grazes the fixed lines to Heart Ledge.






























14)  Higher, Adam, of the Jean/Adam team, is seen here leading the pitch to the junction with the Shield and Muir.  They are doing the upper Muir.





























15)  One of these teams, seen here at Grey Ledges, is going to the Shield and the other I don’t know.  Jack and Drew are the well dressed team headed to the Shield.





























16)  Salathe:  Another team leading the headwall.  This shot shows Long ledge above and right of the climber. 





























In other news:  Sorry for the problems getting the report out to you… just the internet again… not working well now.  I will keep trying…

So that’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 12th day of October, 2014.


Capt. Tom








either the topo is wrong, or

either the topo is wrong, or Jim Beyer is off route on HtH, or am I mistaken? the topo shows it going to the three holes seen in the photo from the lower right, and then following the seem up and left, on pitch 2. 

Is he doing an Fa var. to HtH or trying a repeat?


He just used HTH to get up a bit to do some "exploring".  Tom