ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/10/11
By Tom Evans

Yo.. We had a very nice day here in the Valley, right up until the rains came.  My Astrologer, Erik Sloan, mentioned at breakfast this morning, that the charts and darts said it was going to rain later in the day.  “Balderdash”, I said!  The morning was cloudy, which any ElCap Photographer will tell you makes for great shots, because of the lack of shadows and calmer air.  I got some nice shots this morning, but the clouds closed in and the rain fell a bit after noon.  I packed up my kit and got the hell out of there, as my gear doesn’t like water.  Now, closing in on 7pm the vertical visibility is about 300ft and the rain continues to fall. 

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Free Zodiac:  Someone told me that Sean Villanueva and Nico Favresse were going on the Huber Zodiac to see what they could do.  They made rapid progress up to the 5th pitch when the rains came.  They gotta go down I think.
1)  Sean leading on Zodiacs 4th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Sean running it out higher on the 4th.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zodiac:  A team blasted off the deck with kit and all and were finishing the 2nd as I departed.  This team is Dave Pope and Chris Belino who are both YOSAR rangers who have been involved in high angle and helicopter rescues that saved climbers lives.  Great to see them have time off to climb on the rock on which they have done so much to help other climbers!
3)  Dave finishing cleaning the 1st pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trip:  The two man team of Austrians, E.V. and Patrick, were last seen a pitch below the bolt ladders this morning.  They are lucky they are slow enough to have a good position on the face for the rains.  They should be dry!
4)  Austrians on the upper middle of the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  NA Wall:  The solo, Karel Novacek, passed the long traverse pendulums this morning and climbed to the Black Dihedral as I left.  He should be in good shape under those overhangs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

South Seas to Pacific Ocean:  I watched Max Jones climb the long ramp on the third pitch this morning.  Originally rated at 5.6, those in the know will tell you it is far from the grade!  I got some nice shots of the spectacular colors on that pitch.  They are way under the overhangs and will be cozy and dry for this storm.
6)  Max Jones… crawling, aiding, scratching his way along the ramp on SS’s 3rd pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reticent:  Neil and Callum made LLL last evening and started out on the Reticent part of the wall this morning.  Ah yes!!… the fun begins!
7)  Neil leading the 1st pitch on Reticent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  I didn't get a glimpse of T2 or Jenn as they were in steep corners out of view.  Probable still based on LLL.

Nose:  The Nose continues to draw them in, without regard to possible weather consequences.  Several teams left ECT this morning headed to the Gray Bands via the King Swing.  The second team on the swing had a leader who was just pulling the corner to Eagle Ledge when he unexpectedly wheeled off and flew back across the face in huge cartwheels.  The crowd was stunned!  It looked pretty bad, but the lad was un-phased and went right back and stuck it!!  They will all bivy in the wet zone and are, as we say…. in the shit now!

 
Higher up several teams were making a run for the top as the rains came down.  The Columbian team topped out about 4pm preceded by the Swedish women and a team of two.  Below them Craig and Dave were finishing Pancake Flake as the weather caved.  Fortunately the lads have a ledge and fly with them.
Lower down the Legions marched into the Stovelegs.  What will become of them?…I’m sure they are asking themselves that question right now!
8)  Welcome to the Stovelegs!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3D:  I did see Steve Gerberding at the traverse late in the morning but didn’t stay long enough to see Cal join him.
9)  Steve taking a break to look over at the Shield Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shield:  Pete and Ian are on Mammoth Terrace and ledged up for the duration of the storm.

Albatross:  I did see Ken leading from the Canoe on to the Shield part of the route.  They just might squeak it out to Chickenhead Ledge but are fully equipped for any eventuality.
10)  The belay at the Canoe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Kenny, barely visible, leading onto the Shield portion of the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe etc:  They were lined up from a pitch above Hollow Flake all the way to Sous le Toit.  A team of guys dressed in sharp red shirts came from Hollow Flake and were finishing the Monster as the rain came.  A couple other teams were bailing through the ascenders.  It could be ugly up, there as the Salathe is not noted for its storm worthiness.  I did see a party high on Golden Gate but I think they came in from the top to practice.
12)  Uppers and Downers passing along the way on the Salathe.  Maybe the Downers knew something the Uppes didn't!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  Climber headed to the Ear on the Salathe.  Red, yellow, orange, green… anything but dark!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  TC and KJ were supposed to go back on the Project today but most likely didn’t.  Brad sheepishly wandered into the Café this morning after he and Mason bailed from the lower part of their project yesterday.  They waited until I left so as not to get the coveted… Bail of the Day.  Smart move?… some say that any publicity is good publicity!  I don’t know about out west.  The storm today was unexpected and not forecast until late yesterday… so it could be a long, cold night up on the Cap.  Good luck to all up there and we will be down in the morning to see what is to be seen.  
FYI the ElCap Shuttle Bus’s last day will be Wednesday, 12 October.

So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 10th day of October, 2011.
I’m off to the Bar for some hot chocolate and chili and a seat with a view of the game.
Later… Tom