ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/09/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Another great day of and for climbing here on El Capitan.  Lots to report on and I had a lot of images to process this evening so I am going to get right to the Report.
 

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Those Frenchies fooled me yesterday… they kept on climbing and spent the night on Lunar Ledge and dusted off the remainder of the route today.  I later learned that they have to be out of here by 10am tomorrow… so the haste was a good thing for them.
1)  Heading for the top on Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trip:  Turns out that the team of 3 yesterday was faster than the team of two and thus were in the lead all day.  The team of three had a near disaster when they hauled their ledge open, not flagged, and the third man jugged the haul line.  The ledge spun like a helicopter blade and the guy was flattened out in a rapid spin.  I got some video of it too.  A rope was lowered down to him and he got on it while the ledge just kept on spinning.
2)  Team Two passing slab pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Flat spin … don’t let it happen to you!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

El Nino:  I hear a couple of guys are working this route but I have not seen them yet.

NA Wall:  Karel Novacek is moving strongly up the route.  I talked to him before he left and let me tell you he is a Big Man… big enough to solo ElCap for sure!  He was almost to Big Sur ledge by the time I left.
4)   Karel and kit on the NA Wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nightmare on California Street:  It must have been a nightmare because the men bailed this morning.

South Seas to Pacific Ocean:  Mark and Max finished hauling freight to the base this afternoon and blasted after fixing two yesterday.

Reticent:  Neil and Callun have gone on the route, after a delay to wait for T2 and Jan to get higher on ND.

New Dawn:  Tommy and Jen should be bivying on Lay Lady Ledge tonight along with Neil and Callum.
5)  Tommy and Jen at the belay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  Simon and Martin topped out late this morning.  The team of three behind them also topped out but in the afternoon.
Craig and Dave were stuck behind a slower team and may be staying at Camp 4 instead of Camp 5 tonight.  I NIAD team made good progress today and eventually passed everyone in front of them.  The Swedish women, both named Hanna, climbed from ECT, did the KS, and were behind Craig and Dave at Camp 4.  Lower down there were several teams climbing the Legs and only one had made ECT by the time I left.  The teams are too numerous to keep accurate track of and the ones that are getting my attention are the ones who are dressed in bright colors… so… is there a moral to this story?
6)  Happy feet on ElCap Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Swedish women in the Gray Bands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3D:  I read in the comments section that a team did the Nose and 3D in a little more than 24 hours.  Man I wish they had told me they were going as I only got three shots of them on the 3D part.  Is there a moral to this story?!
Congrats to them for a great day on the Captain.
Later in the day I saw the Columbian team cross the traverse to the Nose and a place at the end of the line.
Lower down I spotted Steve and Cal Gerberding climbing above Gray Ledges this afternoon.  Steve is still sporting that damned white shirt while Cal is fashionably dressed in a sweet little power blue number that is warm, yet versatile and just right for the season.  They both could use some advice from the Swedish women and perhaps will have the good fortune to run into them higher on the route…. It is never too late to upgrade your climbing wardrobe, I always say!
8)  Steve and Cal up the big corner above Gray.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shield:  Piton Pete managed to find a partner, one Ian Cavanaugh from Bozeman, Montana.  I spotted them lounging on the big ledge after the first Heart rap, while the rest of the climbing world rapped past them or jugged up past them.  They appeared to be in no hurry… surprise, surprise!
9)  “So Ian, all we have to do is move 600lbs 3,000ft up the wall."

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Albatross:  Kenny Bokelund and partner were a pitch below the Canoe as I departed today.  God, I wish they would run into the Swedish women too!  Kenny gets his climbing clothing from a nearby dumpster and his partner is not too fresh either.  However, they are doing some good climbing and making excellent progress.  They would both FEEL better in brighter clothing I would bet!
10)  Kenny catching the first light on the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Cold and windy up high.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe and routes in that vicinity:  The Salathe area is packed with all kinds of climbers ranging from Salatheiers, to Golden Gaters, to Freeriders, to New routers.  Hard to tell who is who there but most are smartly dressed and moving up the rock.  The Green guy from yesterday’s photo on Hollow Flake made the alcove as I departed today.
Supposedly there are two parties headed for Golden Gate.  The first is composed of Luka Krajnc and Nastja Davidova from someplace east of the USA, and the second is composed of a couple of Brits of some renown, namely, James McCaffe and Adam Hocking.  I will keep an eye out for them.
12)  Hard move to the Monster crack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Further out west… hell, it is packed enough in the regular places without having to scout out that area.  Plus the wood yard is locked shut so I can’t get out there to shoot anyway.

In other news:  The Lithuanian couple did come down the face today and retrieved their kit from a few days ago.  I saw them at a big party in Camp 4 last night and am amazed they could even hike up to the top much less haul kit out!!
My time is up….  So …
That’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 9th day of October, 2011.
Chow
TME