ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/07/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Perfect day here, after two rather harsh ones.  Last night was really a cold one but beautiful blue skies and cool temperatures made for great conditions on the Captain today.  Wall climbers have responded by heading up their fixed lines or starting out on the major routes.

 
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Zodiac:  The French team of Elliot and Oman have started on this soon to be popular again route.  They climbed the first two and fixed.
1)  Exchanging gear on Zodiac’s second pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Trip:  The Lithuanian’s were out early and headed for the top.  We were mystified as to why they left their entire kit, minus sleeping bags at the spot they have bivied for the past three nights.  But after watching Savle jug the reason seemed obvious.  She was going very slowly and the crew here felt that she must be ill or perhaps injured.  Whatever the story is they topped out around noon.  
Last few feet to the top on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Lower down the two man team who fixed before the storm made it back to the kit and were finishing the 5th pitch as I departed.  Who are they?
Climbing over the roof on the Trips 5th.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Lower down yet, Matt, Bill, and Ben from Colorado climbed the first three while I was there.  I am not wild about their outfits but one takes what one gets in this arena.
Organizing the belay on the Trips 2nd.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TC/KJ project:  I talked to Kevin today and he said they are going up the first 5 today to get back on the route.  Both climbers are eager and in good health so we just might see this project come to fruition.

Nightmare on California Street:  I did finally see the team, Dana Eubanks and Charlie Cable on the route.  Both are not so visible.  They are around the 5th pitch.
5)  The kit and belayer on NCS.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reticent:  Recent heroes from the Continental Drift team, Neil Chelton and Callun O’Neill are fixed on this classic from the 90’s.  Should be a good show, as these guys are good aid climbers with a lot of desire.

New Dawn:  Tommy Thompson and Jennifer Sonders are fixed to 4 on this route that shares the first several pitches with Reticent.

Nose:  Ah yes…. The King is alive and well.  The masses have assembled on the lower pitches and are all jockeying for position.  Several teams have returned from the base not wanting to get in the scrum there.  Tomorrow is another day lads!
Simon Anthamatten and partner Martin worked their way through the crowd like Earnhart at Talladega and were the first in line before you could say, Quaker State.  Simon is very highly regarded by all the local climbers and, if you are a report reader, you have read about him and his brother climbing 8 EC routes in 10 days last year.
6)  Simon leading off in the Stovelegs as Martin watches intently.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  The rest of the field was running into each other and languished in knots of climbers strung all the way to the ground.  To be kind…. it was ugly!
“But mine is the gray one Dude” …Baggage check area at the top of Sickle.  Simon looking for his bags!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  What is up with all these climbers showing up in dark colors these days?  It's easy to see why I hate black!!  Is that guy wearing a dress?!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shield:  Piton Pete and partner Mark Doswald hauled kit up the Heart Ledges elevator this afternoon and will blast tomorrow.  I got an email from another Pete who says he and a partner are coming tomorrow to start the route.  I wonder if they will be faster than PTPP?  God I hope so!

Brad and Mason are heading onto their long standing project that takes a more direct start to Golden Gate.

Salathe:  I did see some climbers sorting ropes on Lung Ledge this afternoon.

Mirage:  Kate and EE are most likely back on the route today.  I can’t see them from anywhere I can get to so this will most likely be the last I will write about them until the end.

In other news:  The Valley was really beautiful today, with snow at higher elevations and a crystal blue sky overhead.  I stopped by “The Tree” this afternoon to have look.  It has just started to have a few leaves brighten up and I suspect it will be several days before it gets its Fall splendor.  Funny thing is that the Black Oaks,  whose leaves usually turn a yellow color are just turning brown and dropping off…what’s up with that?
9)  Sugar Maple leaves starting to turn.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  This afternoon I took a few moments to go down by the river, to get a shot of the Dome, with its’ crown of snow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is, for this Friday, the 7th day of October, 2011.
Keep reading the Report for updates.
Later Tom