ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/05/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. The clouds and rain have vanished as quickly as they arrived and we had a spectacular day with brilliant blue skies.  The temps were cool at the bridge and the climbers on the Captain looked comfortable.  There is some rumor of a shower tomorrow but my astrological advisor, Erik, was off to town today and was not available.  I suggest checking a weather site on the net if you are interested.  It was pretty brisk here at the bridge and thus the Tourons didn’t linger after looking through the scope and getting the real dope on climbing from me.  So it was a relatively quiet day for me. 

Yesterday a former student of mine, who I hadn’t seen in 22 years, showed up at the bridge.  Nancy Smith came by today too and we caught up on a lot of my old students lives.  It was nice seeing someone from so far in the past.  After the bridge shut down I took her to several of my favorite shooting places and she got some shots to take home and some ideas for future visits.
So today’s report is brought to you by Nancy Smith, a clueless, non-climber who happens to love Yosemite.  She is a Report reader but not a Cubicle Puke.  Have a safe journey back to Aurora, Missouri Nancy!
Today’s ElCap Report…. written just for you … unique in all the world. 

On the Waterfront:  Stevie G. and that shitty shirt climbed to the top today around 3pm.  He made it look easy!
Steve climbing the long sweet corner to join the belay that Holly is presently at a pitch from the top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve doing some interesting slab aiding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eagles Way:  The girls were up early and dusted off the last couple of pitches on this route.  They were off by 1pm.
Holly hauling the bags for the last time while Lorna cleans to the top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zodiac:  Zack and Saylor climber out of the White Circle this morning and were headed to Peanut as I left around 3pm.  Bivy there tonight?

Solo climber, Mike Kozusko, jugged to the top of the fixed second pitch and I got a shot of him on the way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Virginia to the Trip:  The team of two who fixed yesterday climbed to the corner of the roof and were leading on the Trip’s 5th when I left.
 Just behind them, Matt Lambert and Grover Shipman climbed to them.
Grover cleaning while Matt rides the pigs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the regular route, solo climber Regan, lead and hauled to two and was leading to three when I departed.  The pink shirt looks sweet and shows he has no identity problems!
Regan climbing on the 3rd of the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

El Nino:  Tom and Brian bailed, leaving some water at their high point.

New Dawn:  Chris Bevins headed off ECT this morning and did an excellent job on the long traverse over to the Wall of the Early Morning Light.  Once there he seemed to look through some of his kit and after a short time reversed the traverse and took his kit back with him.  Is he bailing on to the Nose?  Is he bailing in general?  None of us at the bridge have a clue.  He doesn’t appear to be injured so we will just have to wait and see what tomorrow brings…. Up or down Chris?

Nose:  I fast team climbed through Steve Schneider and friend Benjy (Yes ROWCC members he is our Benjy) at Dolt Tower, they were Scott Deputy and buddy Todd going up to Eagle for a little exercise and then off.

Steve and Benjy talking it over in the Stovelegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  A New Zealand mixed team climbed to the Monster crack on a recon mission.  It didn’t look like it went well there and they retired.  Stephane and Peewee are off the Golden Gate for the time being.

Octopussy:  Kate and Pete are slowly moving up the upper part of the route.  Pete lead to the Pinnacle of Hammerdom in the afternoon.
Pete leading to the Pinnacle of Hammerdom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunset from Home:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news;  There isn’t much other news these days.  The Trip seems to be the climb in vogue at the moment with the Nose a close second.
The nights are getting longer and colder so bundle up!!  The moon is full and deserves your attention at night.  I went down to ElCap last night around 10pm and it was really beautiful in the moonlight.  There was only one light showing and that was from Saylors team in the middle of the White Circle.  I was the only person down there on this beautiful night.  Get out of your tents and the bar and walk around a little in the moonlight… it is good for the soul!!
So that’s the way it is for this the 5th day of October, 2009.
Bye Ansel