ElCap Report 10/03/09

ElCap Report 10/03/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Big crowds around the bridge today… endless streams of Tourons.  Jerry was here with his big unit and that drew them in making my job a little easier.  Beautiful day with some wind and a few clouds later in the day.  The weather pontificators are still calling for some precip, but that hasn’t stopped climbers from embarking on their journey up the Captain.  My favorite tree, the Sugar Maple across from the chapel, showed a few colorful leaves for the first time this Fall.  It should be popping around the 15th or so.
If you are thinking of coming for the Fall colors then maybe put it off for a couple of weeks or so… I will keep you posted.

Today’s report is brought to you by Gene Malone, who came up today with the intention of hiking the Dome but hurt his shoulder putting on his pack!!  What a great excuse!  Anyway, he brought some liquid refreshment and settled in here to deflect Touron questions and ease Jerry’s and my burden.  Gene helps here in the park with things like the Facelift and will do just about anything for members of the climbing community.  He has done several favors for me that saved me from long drives to the city.  Thanks Gene.
Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you… unique in all the world!

On the Water Front.  Stevie G dusted off this route and is exiting the face via the Waterfall route he joined around 2 this afternoon.  He has made it look so casual I couldn’t see where the difficult pitches are.  Off tomorrow.
Stevie G now on the Waterfall ending to his route and his damned dark shirt!!
























Eagles Way.  The Girls reached the A-1 Beauty this afternoon and are getting close enough to the top to make a push for it this evening if they so desire.  The wind picked up this afternoon and Holly was bundled up at the belay while Lorna lead the A-1 Beauty.

























Zodiac:  I picked up the Canuckian’s this morning as Ottawa Doug jugged the line they fixed on the pitch above Peanut Ledge last evening.  They were not off when I left but had one pitch to go and should soon top out.
Doug jugging out while Dennis and Behrooz pray the rope doesn't break!
























Right behind them was the team of two who have been moving smartly up the face for the past two days.  They will all be off tonight.

Lower down the team of Saylor and Zack were on the route.  They were at the start of the BT pitch when I departed at 4pm.  Thankfully they are running an open ledge thus making my life of Touron education much easier.

Virginia:  I did see a team of two start from the ground and climb to the top of 2 by the time I left.  Maybe fixing?

Nearby I saw a couple of guys climb the first of the Trip but not go on the second pitch, heading instead up the ramp to the ElCap Tree for another pitch.  I don’t know what is up with them, or where they are headed.

El Nino:  Tom and Brian are now fixed higher on the route and connected with the NA Wall route.  They blasted a couple of days ago.

NA Wall:  The Italian team bailed from the vicinity of the 8 pitch this afternoon.

New Dawn:  Chris Bevins is putting on a clinic up there.  He climbed onto ECT early in the afternoon polishing off the right side of ECT in just two days!  He was fixing above, heading for the traverse pitch, when I left.  I assume he will stay on, the mega comfortable, ECT tonight. 
Chris leading the last pitch on the right side of ElCap Tower.


























Chris leading above ECT late in the day.

























The Nose:  If you close your eyes at the Bridge and just listen you will hear the thundering of the herd of climbers charging up this route.  Teams from yesterdays report were topping out this afternoon. 
Two NIAD teams smoked up the route and could be off by dark.  No small feat as they had legions to pass through on the way up.

NIAD Team heading from the Jardine Traverse start up to ElCap Tower.


























NIAD climber high steppin on the King Swing.

I saw one of my posse of young guns, Mason, with Pete and Kate waiting forever behind a team dragging up the Legs to DT in the afternoon.  He quickly free climbed up to them as they arrived on the Tower to talk about passing, I assume.  Too long sitting at the belay.  After a time he came down to his team and they rapped off.  The team on DT fixed a line to the start of the Jardine and are now on the Tower for the night.
Two other teams bailed this morning from Dolt after arriving there late in the night. 
Lower down there are various teams jockeying for position but ultimately they will bail from lack of daylight.
Looks like the Nose kicked asses and took names all day long!!
As Cedar Wright would say… “It’s a mystery up there, it’s a mystery!”

Muir:  Nicki and Allyson are supposed to be on the middle of the route but I haven’t seen any traces of them yet.

Salathe:  I saw a couple of teams high on the route but have no idea of what they are doing… maybe someone came in from the top to work on Freerider.
 I did see some climbers go off the Block and climb to the Roof but lost sight of them later.  French Canadians, Stephane and PeeWee are taking loads up their fixed lines to the Spire in preparation for their bid on Golden Gate.

Octopussy:  Kate and Pete moved the show up to the ledge Pete lead to yesterday at the intersection with Never Never Lands 15th pitch.  Kate was climbing above it later in the afternoon.  They still have 8 pitches to do on that route to reach Thanksgiving Ledge.  I think Pete has done that route in the past and maybe Kate has too. 

Sunset from Home:





















In other news:  Climbers from all over seemed to appear at regular intervals at the Bridge today.  Tim came up from Santa Barbara, Matt Lambert, his wife, child, mother and father showed up too.  His partner Grover Shipman is here with him to do something short on the Cap.  Gleason came by on the way out of the Valley to say good bye, as he is going back in the World.  Mike Jefferson and Susan stopped in later.  Mike did the Nose and Salathe back in the dark ages and is now retired and wanting another dose of the Wall Drug.  Too many folks to write about really.  We all had a good time amidst the noise and confusion of the bridge.  As I look out the window of the Café I see the sun shining on the cliffs and a clear sky… maybe the rain will stay away.  We actually need some rain to settle the dust here but not a punishing rain for those nighting on the Captain.

Rob, Andy and Adam, British heroes of ElCapitan, just down from the Nose.

























So that’s the way it is for this the 3rd day of October 2009.
Bye Bye

Moment of Truth

for the King Swing guy. Great picture, Mr. Evans.

Congrats Rob & Co.

Great to see you're off, you're all looking pretty chipper for 5 days on El Cap. Hope you get some more great climbing in before leaving California.

Good to have met you on the wall.


Prod sez.

Thanks Tom,

And pay up to any others checking out this site. Top left of the page. "Donate"


cheers to Rob, Andy and Adam from Clint & Ben

Hit us up for some photos - .

State of Jefferson Boys

Thanks for the update on Saylor and Zack! A picture with their open ledge of the State of Jefferson Flag would be great.




Fixing lines all the way to El Cap Spire in busy season is weak, I don't care who you are or how hard you climb.

rob the rhodo-router


Right on, Ansel Evans.....We always groove.
No "JunkShow"?
That Pete......Sheesh. Another Crazed Monkey. Well, Aren't We All?


Thanks Tom