ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/02/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Pretty nice today, if a bit cool at the Bridge.   The weather continues to hold with partly cloudy conditions.  The Park Service is warning everyone about the storm coming on Wednesday.  It will be pretty cold with snow above 7,500ft and that means rain in the Valley.  The throngs have left the Salathe and returned to the Nose.  They need to climb fast!  Lots of climbers on the Captain today…. Read all about it below…

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The Swedes Petter and Stefan who are hoping to do the Huber variation free were at work on the route today.  They didn’t look too serious as they appeared to be doing some assisted recon up to the Nipple.  We will soon see!

1)  Climbing in the White Circle… ever wonder where all those rocks at the base come from?  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Stefan, bare foot jugging, in the White Circle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down Ottawa Doug and partner, Hugo, are on a mission to do the route in a push.  I lent them my ledge, as they just might not have the guns to push the route in the time they wish, and in face of uncertain weather.
3)  Ottawa Doug back on the Captain.  Zodiac’s third pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trip:  The Dave and Coby, who blasted yesterday bivied at the base of the Slab pitch and were heading up the corners I the center of the route as I departed.
4)  Slab Pitch, Tangerine Trip Dave Lane leading.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Lower down the Lithuanian couple, Gedas and Saule blasted today and were on the 5th as I left.  Gedas has climbed several EC routes before, and this will be the easiest one for him I think.
Saule lowering down to the corner belay on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aurora:  Dave and Luke are racking up the pitches and were half way up the route by 3pm today.  What can I say about these guys?  They are always efficient and fast and have done several big routes in excellent time.
6)  Dave out on the sharp end while Luke hangs in the bag.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mescalito:  The heat has gotten to Regan.  I talked to Tommy Caldwell this morning and he said he talked with Regan on the wall the other day and he didn’t look so good and was running out of water.  Tommy told Regan to go over to his kit over on Wino Tower and get what water he needed as they had an ample supple.  Thanks Tommy!  
This morning Regan climbed the infamous Bismarck, after bivying on the Ledge.  He looked good on the pitch and was up it without problems.  Later in the afternoon I saw him rappel down to Wino and left with a couple jugs of water.  Hope he got enough!  Last time he climbed ElCap he barely survived a torrential rainstorm!
7)  Regan sending the Bismarck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Regan leaving Wino Tower with the goods.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The lower Nose was loaded today.  Several mixed party’s climbed toward Dolt as the afternoon wore on.  Above a speedy team was heading to the Gray Bands around 2pm via the Jardine Traverse.
9)  Speeding along the Jardine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down I spotted a mixed team in the Legs and noticed a pretty snazzy pair of pants adorning one of the male members of a large party… couldn’t resist giving them the ….
10)  PANTS OF THE DAY!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe/Freerider: A team of two dropped in from the top today to preplace kit on the various ledges along the way.  They rapped the entire route.

11)  Dropping in on Freerider.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The action on the Headwall continued with the usual suspects in evidence.  Nico and his girlfriend have a ledge set up at the edge of the Roof pitch.  She worked her way up the long, overhanging headwall without too many falls.  I didn’t see Sean and Mayan climbing but spotted Sean on Long Ledge for most of the day.
12)  Nico’s friend working the headwall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Another busy day at the Bridge with Tourons in full force and climbers too!  It was a good time and everyone got along well.
Climbing Ranger Ben Doyle showed up around quittin time in the company of Sherpa Dawa, an exchange rescue guy from Nepal.  We had a nice chat and I showed him what was to be seen on the cliff.  He has an excellent command of the English Language and seemed to be having a good time.  I am not quite sure what he thought of the Bridge scene.
13)  Ranger Ben Doyle and Sherpa Dawa, at the Bridge this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It would appear that a sudden decision by those at the throttles, has resulted in me getting a camping spot at Lower Pines, for the duration of the season.  So I will not be hanging with the Bros in Camp 4 as often as I thought.

So that’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 2nd day of October, 2011.
Later
Capt. Tom