ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/01/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Another beauty here but not enough, it seems, to bring climbers out of Camp 4.  I don’t know what is up with the crews this season.  I heard someone this morning saying they were going to delay another day because the weather was calling for a 10% chance of showers this afternoon!  Bunch of Pukes!  Got rain gear?  Yes.  Got Portaledge?  Yes.  Got rainfly?  Yes.  Got balls?  No!  So it will be a thin ECR today.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac Huber:  Yep there is a team of free climbers, from Sweden I hear, who are going to take a shot or two or perhaps more, at the Huber variation to Zodiac.  They are Petter and Stefan who you might remember from last year sending Freerider.  Both are excellent, strong climbers and it should be interesting higher up!
 

1)  Swedes on the 5th pitch of the Free Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Higher on the route Dan Mottinger climbed to the top late this afternoon after a bivy on Peanut Ledge last night.
2)  Dan getting the kit ready on Peanut this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

VA to the Trip:  A team of two Americans, Dave Lane and old friend Coby Hart, who fixed yesterday, climbed to the Roof and above this afternoon.  They looked pretty organized and were moving well.
3)  VA/Trip team passing the corner of the roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aurora:  Dave Allfrey and Luke Holloway started this route today without fixing and were on the traverse to the Bat Cave as I departed.  The route should go quickly as these guys live to speed up the Cap.
4)  Aurora crew on the left and Trip on the right.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mescalito:  Our man Regan is perched on the Bismarck ledge as I type these lines.  He took a plunge this morning off the pitch leading to the Ramp.
5)  Old school climber Regan likes to carry all the rope with him!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Regan off Mescalito.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  I did see a team top out early this afternoon.  Now the route is completely empty.  I don’t believe it … the most sought after big wall climb in the world sits empty in perfect weather.  I hear a mixed team will go tomorrow.

Salathe/Freerider:  Mayan and Sean are still up there working on the headwall.  I can no longer tell if it is going well or badly for them.  I couple of guys came down the Headwall to work on the top of Freerider this morning.  Other than that the route is empty.

7)  Sean working the Headwall while Mayan belays.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news.  I have moved into Camp 4 as my former site in North Pines is up.  They are going to close the camp on Monday for renovation.  The Bridge was absent many Tourons but we did have the Continental Drift team basking in the glory most of the day.  Lots of climbers drifted in and out today including some who are about to go up on the hill.. Hurray!
A Freerider team from the past several days jumped off the bus to say hi and back on in a flash to go the showers… thank God!

8)  Anthony, Clinton and Andrew just down from Freerider, which Clinton sent, with the support of the others.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Continental Drift Team:  Pete, Neil, Callum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is for this Saturday, the 1st day of October, 2011.
Chunga,
Telephoto Tom