ElCap Report 10/01/09

ElCap Report 10/01/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Spectacular day here … even better than yesterday with gentle breezes and cool temps.  The meteorological pontificators say it will rain this weekend with a low snow level.  I say “Balderdash” what the hell do they know anyway?  Everyone knows that the weather is always perfect here in Yosemite and it never rains during the climbing season, right?  Right!!  So come on out and get on the Big Stone because you ain’t getting any younger and I am not going to live forever and you don’t want to miss your chance to glorify in front of my Big Gun!! 

Gerberding is here, the girls are here, PTPP and Kate are here, Ottawa Doug and the Canadian Mafia are here, the Flagstaff ass kickers are here, Regan is here from half way around the world, KFC and even Davis Turnis are here…. So… Cubicle Pukes and Pukes of all stripes, you are without excuse!!  Don’t even try… I know all the Puke excuses, and none of them are worth their weight in shitbags!
Today’s report is brought to you by Holly and Lorna who are smoking their way up Eagle’s Way as I type these lines.  Send on ladies, send on…
Today’s ElCap Report… just for you…. Unique in all the world!

On the H2O Front:  Stevie G is racking them up and knocking them down on this obscure upper east side route.  Ammon reports it is one of the eziest routes he ever did on the Cap…. Been hitting the Cobras again Bro?
Stevie G and that damned white shirt.























Eagle’s Way:  The girls are moving into the better rock now and making good time.  They will be in the middle of the waterfall if the pontificators are correct.  Hell, they might even be off before it rains!
Lorna cleans the Seagull while Holly vanishes among the kit.

















Zodiac:  The Flagstaff fliers continue to roll along the route.  They were headed to peanut ledge by 3pm and just may finish the route this evening if they want to.  Good working team!

Lower down the Canadian Mafioso, with Ottawa Doug on the sharp end, climbed through the entire circle today.  His two wall newbee buddies were looking good and the team was making good time.  I got some killer shots of them I the White Circle.  I think they will fix the Mark of Zorro pitch by dark, but stay at the top of the Circle.  The third man did some really exposed jugging today and went at it at a frenetic rate.  Exposure and fear make for fast jugging!!
Canadian Mafia member Behrooz in the Jaws of Death on Zodiac.






















Ottawa Doug on the Nipple Pitch Zodiac





















Below them the team of two climbed the Black Tower early in the afternoon and I think are headed into the Circle this evening.  They look at ease and are doing fine.

El Nino:  I did see Tom working on some climbing a few pitches up and his partner, Brian, from Brian and Sandra of Freerider last week, are climbing and fixing with an eye on the weather.

North American Wall:  The Italians, Iacco and Fabio, were on the route today and climbing the 4th pitch when I spotted them.  Unfortunately they were not high enough to be photographed just yet.  I will try to get a shot, from another location, in the morning.

New Dawn:  Englishman, Chris Bevins replaced the water bottles the Bear got yesterday and was busy climbing the first three on this long route.  He has done several EC routes over the past couple of years and is stepping up to do this route solo.  I will keep an eye on him for you Mom!

Nose:  Getting hard to keep track of the climbers on this route. 
Russ and Brad were well on their way to sending a NIAD when I left around 4pm.  They climbed through two teams of three, one with a woman, who were in the middle of the route and making reasonable progress.  A team of two was in the back of the line, as they were the slower guys from yesterday trying to do some free climbing.  They were getting it done.
Below in the Stove legs two teams of two were seen headed to Dolt.  Art and Jeff, a local Wawona boy were in the lead.
Hard to remember all the details with so many teams.  No bailers today.
Climbing off Texas Flake on the Nose route.






















Big Lower out from the Great Roof Nose Route.





















I didn’t see a soul on Salathe but hear that a Canadian team is about to go on Golden Gate after coming in from the top and stocking The Tower to The People ledge with provisions and a ledge.  Stephane and Pewee are up to the task they say.

Octopussy:  Kate and her belay monkey continue to make good progress on this recently popular upper west side track.  The show must go on, and as we all know, logistics is PTPP forte.  Having some fun over there folks?  Most likely so… just don’t climb so fast that you end up with a lot of extra food and water… they may need a couple of days off to keep from doing the route too fast!

Sunset from home:





















In other news:  I had the day off today as it was ES’s day to work the Touron trade.  Thus, I got some shots from other locations I enjoy working. The air was clear and a pleasure to work through.  Nice today at the bridge with some of the usual Bridge Rats hanging around. Nicki and Allisyn were taking a rest day off before going on the Muir tomorrow.  Davis Turnis made a late afternoon appearance dressed in Dockers and a golf shirt…. Tell me it isn’t so Dave!!  KFC had an afternoon off from working construction in the West.  Chris Chan came by looking for a partner for something good on the Cap before she has to go back to school.  Any takers?
Leo Burk, where are you?  Jay and Jeanette, where are you?  Pukes, where are you?
So that’s the way it is for this the first day of October, 2009.
Later Tom.

French climbers

contact me by email.... just hit the "contact" part of the upper right hand line of information on the page.
thanks Tom

French Climbers

Your report it amazing Tom, it's a hard work. Next time i would like to see you.
I would like to know if is possible to have some picture of our team on "the Nose" and also in "the shield" the 12-14 september. It's our first time in USA, and it's a amazing place.
Tell me if i need to join some money or not and were in case.


Canadian Mafia

Thanks for the update on the "Canadian Mafia".

Friends and family back hear in Ottawa are grateful to be able keep up to date on Doug, Dennis and Behrooz's (AKA the Canadian Mafia) progress. BTW Behrooz isn't a French Canadian name, he hales from somewhere in Eastern Europe, can't rememeber where.

Thanks again Tom, Simon.

woo pig sooie!

My cousin and I are headed out there next Thursday the 8th to climb the Captain. Being ozark hillbillys were coming ready for the drama that awaits us up on the big stone. Your report is awsome and has been priming us for our big adventure. Can't wait to get there! See ya soon.



Thanks for the Report Tom.....Skully

yee haw!

Wow, that is a real sunset! Maybe I'll have dreams about El Cap now.

We are coming back Hopefully.

Hope to be back later this month. Just seems so strange that not many people on other routes.