El Cap Report 09/23/09

ElCap Report 9/23/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Ok … the weather has cooled off a touch and the Captain is ready for your team to start climbing.  It was really nice at the bridge with lots of climbers coming by and hanging out in the cool shade.  Today was the first day of the clean up and it is off to a great start.  Last night we had presentations from the Ken Burns film on the national parks and a show by Dean Potter.  A nice crowd showed up with lots of good cheer all round.

BTW my webmaster says my shots are using too many mgs. so I have had to reduce the quality of the downloads.  Sorry the shots won't be as crisp from now on.

 The show by Dean was really great and I highly recommend you see it, if you haven’t.  The somewhat controversial Mr. Potter is leading a life of adventure and fulfillment.  His video clips and from the heart commentary were very well received.  He is in a unique position at the top of several sports and still is searching, searching, searching to fulfill aspirations in areas that he seems to be inventing as he goes along.  Those of us who have, in the past, thought we were really hitting it hard left the program thinking otherwise.  The most common thing I heard on the way out was… “I’m such a pussy!”  200 men were emasculated in less than 2 hours!!
So… today’s ElCap Report is brought to you by The Dean himself… out there on the edge for all of us who can’t be there… long may you run Dean, long may you run. 
Today’s ECR… unique in all the world… fresh off the keyboard… Just for you.

Zodiac:  The team from yesterday climbed through the White Circle today and will most likely bivy above the Mark of Zorro.  These guys are racking up the pitches in good style, even though their outfits leave a lot to be desired!
1)  Climbing past the "Jaws of Death"  in the White Circle.























2)  Cleaning the Nipple Pitch.


























Below them a team of two started off the deck today and were seen on the third pitch as I left a shade early at a bit past 3 today.
3)  New Team doing the 2nd on Zodiac.  Love the sun hats!
























Trip:  The team that fixed a couple yesterday were back on it by afternoon and were fixing higher to the 4th when I left.

Nose:  I did see one of the two man teams from yesterday topping out in early afternoon.  The other team should be close behind.

Lower down one of the teams in the clusterfuck at the top of Sickle yesterday climbed to the Jardine from Dolt and crossed it quickly.  An 8 ft. stick seemed to solve all kinds of problems for this Swiss mixed team of Adrian and Silvia. 



























 It looked like a team was holed up on Dolt but I couldn't tell for sure.

A team was seen in the Legs making good time by mostly free climbing.  ECT for these guys tonight.

Albatross:  Kevin climbed a couple of more pitches today and has settled into a steady pace.  His belays are well organized and he is in cruise control for sure.

Salathe:  I did see a couple of teams cross Hollow Flake and climb to the Ear before I left.  It looked a little warm over there on the west side.
5)  Sorting gear on Hollow Flake ledge.
























6)  Blast from the Past:  Tom Evans and Eric Peterson in the Camp 4 lot after coming down from the 3D in 1982.  So long ago, so long ago.


























In other news:  Tons of climbers hung out all day basking in the glory of recent ascents.  Erik Sloan and Logan Talbot were just down from the North Face of Quarter Dome and raved about this great route.
7)  Bridge rats hanging early in the day at the ECB.


















8)  Afternoon Bridge rats.
















The highlight of the afternoon was the arrival of Chris Chan, just down from the Shield Solo she did over the last 9 days.  As she walked across the deck the Crew rose to their feet and gave her a round of applause.  She got a chair in the shade and a cold Cobra to wash away the gunk and dryness in her throat.  Although filthy, she was as bubbly as ever and told her story to an attentive audience.   All the guys wanted to shake her hand and congratulate her.  Great stuff!!
9)  Chris Chan, Hero of El Capitan.                                                                                           10)   Hands after ElCap.


























So that’s the way it is for this the 23rd day of 2009.
Later Tom

Chris Chan

i never saw in Climbing or Rock and Ice that this young lady did the Shield solo. Seems noteworthy. what has happened to our climbing culture when a sport climb takes presedence over this?

Silvia and Adrian

We hope so see more pictures from them. Good loock lucky. Mam and dad.

Prod sez

Thanks Tom, you do us all a great service!


Chris Chan's solo.

Congratulations Chris !

An adventure to lodge in your brain for life !

Jim Brennan

Way to go Chris Chan!!!

More than awesome! Thanks Tom for the great shots and current news!

Thanks for sharing


Thanks for the daily fix. Much appreciated.



PS: Congrats to Chris for the solo. Totally awesome.


Awesome as usual - almost as good as being there.... almost. What program are you using to save your images for the web? You should be able to get under 200kb without losing much.

the stash

Years have flown by, yet the stash remains in full valor!

Congrats Chris Chan!

Thanks Tom!


Tom, You do a great service & all, but those are ARMS, fer cryin' out loud....
Or what, eh?
I liked the young skinny Tom, Too.
Cheers, Skully