ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/14/2021

By Tom Evans

Yo..  The Weather has been a little strange and that has affected climbing teams in different ways.  As you read on the previous report, we recently had a night of high winds combined with cold temperatures.  The woman’s team on the Straw kept going with apparently little trouble, while the men’s team on the Sea bailed because they lacked cold weather gear and suffered from the cold.  Piton Pete’s team were quite alarmed at the conditions and were fearful it would be very difficult to retreat as they felt the conditions hampered rope management.  Pete’s team bailed because his partner Kurt had serious back problems along with intestinal issues that incapacitated him.  The Green Bag team just kept rolling along, putting the pitches behind them.  This is the Fall season and the weather is uncertain some of the time… so any team should be prepared for anything from heat to freezing temperatures.  Don’t go on the Cap without a full kit.  Several people have died up there from the cold.  Climbers tend to see Yosemite as just “Fun in the Sun!”  The price for making that mistake can be your life!

ElCap Report 10/12/2021

By Tom Evans

Yo… Nights have been cold and the days cool with some sun and wind.  There are some interesting routes being done as the big trades seem to be languishing in solitude with a few NIAD’s keeping it interesting. Many climbing friends have shown up and the line-up of vehicles seems to be fulling daily.  I will keep plugging along in the meadow just for you! Most reports, like this one, will be a consolidation of 2 or 3 of days of climbing.

10/12/21 8am.  BIG NEWS just in from Piton Pete who is trying to bail due to partner illness.  High winds buffeted the Captain all night and into the morning.  Pete says it is too cold and windy (70 mph) to rappel and the conditions are full on epic.  Hopefully the wind will back off as the day progresses.  Just goes to show you how important it is to be fully prepared for any circumstance. 

ElCap Report 10/9/2021   First Report of the Fall season.  

By Tom Evans

All right folks, the ElCap Report is back, after 2 years of no reports amid the covid 19 restrictions. So, wake up Cubicle Pukes, and pay attention because cool things are happening and more are planned... So, where the hell are you???  I arrived in Yosemite Valley around 8am on October 6^th after a drive of 7.5 hours, from my home in SoCal.  The driving was easy at night and I arrived to find ElCap with climbers on some really good routes… some I don’t usually see.  The Nose has been empty for the past two days.  The weather has been ok but the smoke has been a constant problem this season.  I am planning on being here until the end of the month, and am staying at site 36 in Camp 4.  I didn’t shoot on the 6^th as I was pretty tired from the trip up and hit the sack around 6:30pm.  This report is a compilation of the past couple of days.

ElCap Report 5/18/2021 Special Report Wilderness Climbing Permit

Yo.. It has been a while since I wrote an ElCap Report as the Pandemic has locked many of us into our homes and out of Yosemite.  Recently the NPS released a new requirement for all climbers to apply for a Wilderness Climbing Permit (WCP going forward) if they spend one or more nights on a big wall climb.  Since everything over the elevation of about 4,000ft is considered wilderness, that applies to all big walls in Yosemite. Unfortunately, the roll-out was poorly handled and all it accomplished was hostility among many in the climbing community.  So, the ElCap Report (ECR going forward) known for its straightforward and credible reporting on all things ElCap (EC going forward) related, is going to give you the real dope on this latest eruption from the NPS. Understand, however that I am speaking only about the effect of the WCP on EC climbs, as I have no direct knowledge of any other climbs.

ElCap Report 10/19/19

By Tom Evans

Yo.. The weather has continued to hold and many climbs of importance are about to be done.  And I am leaving for home in the morning, so this is the last report of the season.  Too bad I have to leave but I planned a month-long cruise a few months ago and can’t cancel it for anything.  I would like to thank all you readers and supporters of the Report. It couldn’t happen without your donations and rabid interest in the climbing on the Cap!  I have had a good, if shortened season and, as you have seen, gotten a lot of interesting shots for the climbers to have and share. 

ElCap Report 10/18/19

By Tom Evans

Yo… Surprise… the Nose is almost empty.. so all you folks constantly complaining about crowding… now is the time.  Lots of other stuff being climbed too.  I will be leaving the Valley this Sunday so come see me very soon if you want to get your shots directly from me.  Otherwise use the “contact” button above to send me your information about the climb.

ElCap Report 10/17/19

By Tom Evans

Yo… Exceptionally stable weather has been the hallmark of this season. We have not had a drop of rain in daytime for the entire month I have been here.  The forecast continues to promise good weather.  I am leaving soon as I have other things on my agenda so keep that in mind and come see me in the Café morning or evening to get your shots…otherwise I can drop box them to you when I have time.  Lots of interesting climbing going on these days aside from the big trades… so come on out and see all the action or better yet get up on the big stone yourself.

ElCap Report 10/15/19

By Tom Evans

Yo… The smoke seems to have vanished as quickly as it appeared… so come on down!!  The climbing season has returned.  Lots of action off the trade routes to report on.  But the big trades are still getting most of the numbers. 

ElCap Report 10/10/19

By Tom Evans

Yo.. As you know by now, the weather is great but the air is not.  We have a big fire burning out to the west near Midpines. It is producing a lot of smoke and the prevailing west wind is bringing the smoke into the Valley where it is sitting and concentrating.  It does make for some interesting sunsets and views of a very red moon at night.  When it will disperse, no one knows.  To keep your mind off the smoke, I have written a report from shots taken over the last few days.  Later... 4pm this afternoon... the smoke is back since 1pm and it looks like the cycle will continue for some time... so ... stay away and keep checking back to find out what is up with the fire.

Big fire out to the west near Midpines.....Smoke thick in the Valley and it is not going away for several days.... don't come here until it clears ... maybe by the weekend.  

Capt. Tom