ElCap Report 6/06/09

ElCap Report 6/06/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Sweet day here today, with cloudy skies and very cool temps.  The rain held off until very late in the day and then it was a casual shower.  The teams on the South East Face were all moving up in the shelter of the overhanging wall above.  The weather is the news here and everyone is getting a little tired of the doubt.  June where are you?  This is April stuff.
Anyway, the bridge was on and off today as the weather dictated.  The entire rock West from Mescalito is vacant, and for good reason.  But if it doesn’t rain then there is no problem, but caution is the rule of the day.
So take a break, flog the snake, and come on back to today’s ElCap report,  where you will be in the shit with all the big wall Pukes you are jonesin to be. 
Today’s ECR…
 

ElCap Report 6/05/09

ElCap Report 6/5/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Well our luck ran out with the weather today.  I heard the pitter patter on my tent, late in the night and knew the run was over. The guys on the SE Face played the smart bet and are warm and dry as the steepness has sheltered them from the rains.  However, the rain has been light, but longer in duration than those of recent times.  No big down pours have occurred thus far.  I went down to the bridge at 10am and scoped it out.  The Shield boys were breaking down their ledge as I arrived and were soon leading toward Chickenhead ledge, where they are most likely interned.  The guys on Mescalito were also out in the weather but looked cozy in their ledge and have made no move to get out and climb the two pitches to the Bismarck Ledge.

ElCap Report 6/04/09

ElCap Report 6/04/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Cold and windy here in the valley with a huge chance of rain today… but of course, no rain!  The bridge was crowded today with Tourons and climbers alike.  Nose and Salathe are still devoid of any sign of life, while most of the action continues to be on the upper east side of the SE Face.
It was very much like an October day here and everyone is wondering where all the forecast rain went.  Today’s report is brought to you by a refreshing family of German Baptists who came by the bridge and just couldn’t believe what was going on up on the Cap and on a slack line from the bridge to the edge of the river.  Everyone  seemed in great spirits today and we all had a good time.

ElCap Report 6/03/09

ElCap Report 6/03/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… another great day for climbing on the Captain.  We had cloud cover all day long and for just a moment, at 2pm, it misted very briefly.  I don’t think the climbers on the Cap even knew it happened.  The Zodiac was the center of attention as the Nose and Salathe languished in disuse.  The weather continues to confound but not enforce.  The cool weather is a boon for water conservation and everyone seems to be headed up, not down.  So don’t be discouraged.  Even though the forecast is doom and gloom the reality is anything but.  I know some of you want to do the Nose and guess what?  The Nose is totally empty…. The Salathe is totally empty… The West side is completely empty.  Hell, what else can I do for you Pukes, I’ve cleared the whole SW Face of ElCap just for you, so show up or shut up!!

ElCap Report 6/02/09

ElCap Report 6/02/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… another nice day of cool and cloud… the Nose emptied out and the Zodiac filled up.  I think it wanted to rain but didn’t, just to piss off all the climbers who are sitting around bitching about the weather!  This has been a strange spring, more like early spring than early June.  I remember one day, long ago, when I was at Pratt’s camp in C4...  he looked at the skies and said to Tom Bauman, “let’s go do the Muir, this weather is perfect”.  That was a day like today.  They went and made the 3rd ascent if I recall correctly.  So… don’t take my word for it, take Chuck’s!!  Three days in a row with no real rain on the Captain. 

ElCap Report 6/01/09

ElCap Report 6/1/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Wow, two nice days in a row for climbing on the big stone!!  The crews have responded by heading up on the routes.  Three parties now on Zodiac, one on Virginia, 7 on the Nose, one on Mescalito, the old dads on the PO,  a team fixed on the NA, one on the Shield, and some more staging on the Salathe.  I think everyone is sick of just sitting around when it only rains a few minutes of the day.  It was great for the photography as the high clouds kept the shadows off the Captain and I could get all the rock details and climbers, normally deep shadows… Sweet!!
So put the kids to bed, tell the spouse you will be there in a minute, turn up some favorite tunes and settle down for today’s report.  The ECR is brought to you by Heinz Zak, noted photographer and climber who told me years ago to ditch the telescopes and buy some big glass… boy was he right!  Thanks Heinz!!

ElCap Report 5/31/09

ElCap Report 5/31/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… well there was no rain all day while I was at the bridge and strangely there were no climbers either.  The only action was people who were already on the wall.  There was one party on the Nose and one on SSPO.  A couple of teams with high powered climbers are headed to the Shield.  The bridge was really quiet all day.  We were expecting rain but it never came.
Today’s report is brought to you by Doug and Melissa who hung out all day. 
Today’s ECR just for you

ElCap Report 5/30/09

ElCap Report 5/30/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… special day here at the gateway to adventure.  Several old timers and young hot dogs were around today for interviews with the Autry Museum staff for the exhibit being prepared there under the auspices of the Yosemite Climbing Association.  Nice weather for shooting with moderate cloud cover until there was a ripping thunderstorm and torrential down pour!  Seems as though there is a low pressure from down south to the east of us and it is sending lots of moisture our way.  These are not the normal, causal showers we come to expect at this time of year… so…. If you are thinking of a run at the Captain be warned.

ElCap Report 5/29/09

ElCap Reports 5/29/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Well it was an interesting day… he weather was unsettled but not really wet.  Around 11:30am a cloud came over and released a very mild drizzle that lasted for several hours but amounted to little accumulation.  The Bridge was quiet but things picked up when Jay and Jeanette showed up with killer CCC’s and Cobras!  Things only got better.  I left early as various teams were in not so photogenic places.  I still say this weather is nothing to worry about but there is this lingering California fear of rain.  Even the most hardened Patagonia or Himalayan veteran cowers in fear at the mere suggestion that there is a 20% chance of rain!!

ElCap Report 5/28/09

ElCap Report 5/28/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Well it was really nice today… lots of clouds to keep the sun off the Captain and make my shooting so nice!!  Right up until the pouring rain at about 1:13 pm.  But as advertised in previous reports these summer storms are just a quick flash and then they are gone.  This one was pretty hard but was over in 8 minutes 46 seconds.  Then the storm blew out and everyone started climbing again, with the exception of the guys on the Shield and South Seas, as they don’t get rain on the part of the route they were climbing at the time.  Late this evening another storm came up but went off to the west without depositing any rain.  Everyone climbed on and we got the pollen washed out of the air!
So it is on and you need to be here to get it on with the rest of the Big Wall Pukes.
Today’s report is brought by the clouds blocking out the sun so I could get killer shots of the climbers on the Captain today!!  CLOUDS!!!  We love you!!
Today’s ElCap Report…

ElCap Report 5/27/09

ElCap Report 5/27/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Pretty quiet here at the bridge today.  Nice overcast sky kept the heat down and the glare at bay for my shooting.  Few Tourons and climbers around today.  A little thunder boomed from time to time but no rain fell.
The wall east of the NA is empty now and awaits your team to get in there and look good.  In fact there are relatively few climbers on the Captain at the moment. 
I have some other business to attend to so the report will come at you right now… Today’s ElCap Report…

ElCap Report 5/26/09

ElCap Report 5/26/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Nice day if you like great weather until about 4pm and then a busting thunderstorm!  Or, nice weather until 1:25pm and then a roaring avalanche over on the West side of the Captain.  It was too far west to hit any climbs but Alex Honnold saw it up close from the Headwall of the Salathe and said it was raging!  The dust cloud rose up to the height of the Cap.  Patty got a video, as Sean’s dog alerted her to it!  I called it in, as did others I’m sure.  Our Jr. climbing ranger Max came down to get the details.

ElCap Report 5/25/09

ElCap Report 5/25/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Wow!!  Gorgeous day here in the Valley.  Warm sun, cool breeze and an almost empty Captain!  The crowds vanished yesterday so today was vacant.  No traffic jams, no Tourons, and no climbers either! 
1)  Today’s report is brought to you by Mason and Clay who were down from sending Golden Gate over the past several days.  Nice send lads.

ElCap Report 5/24/09

ElCap Report 5/24/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… well here I sit in my van at the Bridge.  The great shadow of the South Buttress has worked its way across the magnificent South East Face of El Capitan as it has done for all of recorded history.  The climbers on Zodiac have finally gotten the shade they’ve sought all day long.  Various teams are just a few minutes from the top and the end of a journey that will remain in their lives for as long as they live.  The ElCap meadow is awash in the warm light of the evening and a cooling breeze is sweeping the grasses from the west.  I would be gone by now but the traffic in the east end of the valley is jammed, so I thought I would just sit here and write the report at the bridge.  Ivo, Ammon, and Corbin just wandered past seeking a sunny spot to watch the evening unfold. 

ElCap Report 5/23/09

ElCap Report 5/23/09
By Tom Evans
Yo…. Whoa!!  Really great weather today with sunny skies and cool breezes.  Lots of action up on the Big Stone with most of it on the Nose and Salathe.  Yeah I know, tell you something you don’t already know!!  The traffic today was as to be expected with huge lines of cars trying to get out of the park late in the day.  The shuttle was bringing the Tourons as fast as it could drive the loop.  Lots of people looking through the scope today but not many climbers in evidence.  Maybe everyone went climbing?!!  There were some high clouds building up behind the Dome but that’s not unusual. 
The action on the rock is picking up now, so you pukes and punters need to get it together and make some plans to take advantage of the fine late spring weather!  So lock yourself in the garage, turn up the tunes, settle down on that smelly old sofa and get your laptop cranking because you are one of the lucky people who know about the ECR and get to live the good life, if only vicariously!

ElCap Report 5/22/09

ElCap Report 5/22/09
By Tom Evans

ElCap Report 5/21/09

ElCap Report 5/21/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… really a sweet day here, even out in the meadow with the sun beating down.  The Nose still commands most of the teams on the mighty ElCap.  I hear that several teams are about to pounce but I will believe it when I see it.  SE face will be devoid of climbers east of Mescalito tomorrow…. Where are the Zodiac masses we usually see lined up on the route?  MIA. 
But not to worry because in spite of everything I am still here, hopefully at the Bridge itself tomorrow, to record all the action on the big stone Trades or not.  Mostly the Trades these days.

ElCap Report 5/20/09

ElCap Report 5/20/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… what a sweet today in the EC Meadow.  Sunny but not too warm with a nice breeze from the west all day.  The big Trades were getting most of the action with the Nose by far the most busy.  The Salathe is getting some traffic but not much.  Everything from Mescalito to the East Butt is open.  So where are you my dedicated readers…sitting at home, wasting away, living the dream through the ECR?  Well get a life and bring it to Yosemite.

ElCap Report 5/19/09

ElCap Report 5/19/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Much cooler today but with a touch of humidity.  Nice clouds drifting by all day but never developed into a storm, much to the delight of various wives and mothers who happened by to see their boys on the wall.  I hung out with Jerry Miller, a guy who also takes shots of climbers from the meadow but has a super duper telescope and various computer items that put my little rig to shame.  You can contact him for shots if you were climbing on the wall recently.  We had a nice time comparing notes and swapping photography stories.  The Bridge was way closed today and I couldn’t even get close to it but had a good time hanging with Jerry.
 

ElCap Report 5/18/09

ElCap Report 5/18/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… you know how I said there was no way it would rain today?  Well, I was wrong, really wrong!!  It started out nice enough with some high clouds and cooler temperatures.  Then some rumblings were heard from the vicinity of the Dome.  Matt got a cell message, around 1pm, from KFC and Josh as they were coming down from their 6 hr ascent of the RegNWFace of the Dome.  They said to hold on tight because the storm was a wild one and was headed down valley.  Very dark clouds with much lightning and loud thunder were soon upon us here at the Bridge.  Torrential rains burst upon us and we were in the shit for sure!  Immediately Horse Tail Falls, heretofore dry as a bone, was a torrent pouring over the rim.  Even Middle Cathedral Rx had a waterfall coming down it about 100 ft west of the Central Pillar of Frenzy.  Portaledges went up fast for those with them and the rest just suffered.  It was quite a show for those of us here watching from the meadow.  By 4pm it was all over.

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