ElCap Report 9/30/2022

ElCap Report 9/30/22

By Tom Evans

Yo… The weather is cutting us some slack with lower temperatures and still, crystal clear skies.  The action is picking up on the Great Rock with several different routes being done and none are crowded.  The Nose and Salathe are practically empty.  So shed the moniker of 'Cubical Puke' and get in on the action here in Yosemite.  The maples are turning yellow now, and the air has the smell of Fall.  It is a nostalgic time for me as Fall has many memories from years of climbing and shooting and I wonder just how many Falls I have left in my life... so like me... you should enjoy it the fullest!  

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you …unique in all the world.

1)  One of several solo climbers on the rock is Dennis Garcia on the Classic Zodiac.  Here he is jugging to the first pitch after leading it previously.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Over on Lost in America, Hayley Ashburn was spotted here leading the first pitch of Virginia thus bypassing the not so popular first pitch of LA.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Yesterday Hayley then traversed over to the end of the first on pitch of LA to start on that route.  She is looking smooth thus far and I like her organization of the belay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Over on SSPO Chris got into the photogenic area around the Sharks Fin and is seen here leading up to the classic feature.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  The next pitch on SSPO is the interesting and difficult “Rubber Band Man Pendulum” which some seem to get without problem and others go cowboy and throw a rope until it catches.  Chris did the swing and was able to get some hooks and gear to the end of the pendulum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Higher on SSPO Chris got into the PO part of the route and is seen here on the pitch below the traverse to the Central latitudes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  On Mescalito, Adrien is climbing very well and is seen here reaching the base of the ramp leading up to the excellent Bismarck Ledge, one the most memorable on the rock.

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Yesterday, I got a shot of Adrien from way out west, leading to the Ships Bow and the sloping bivy ledge there.  He topped out today around 3pm.Great work Adrien Costa!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  This three-man team is moving along well on the Nose.  Here we see the 2nd climber on the lower-out from Boot to the ledge at the end of the King Swing pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Camden Clements, YMS guide we saw with a client on the Nose last week, leading a new client on the route again.  That is a lot of Nose in a short time.  Here they are on the sweet pitch above Dolt Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Nose:  Some parties don’t like fixing to Sickle Ledge so they haul their kit with them up the first 4 pitches.  That is ok if you are moving fast and light.  But with a big crew and kit it is a hassle.  Here is a team jammed together on the start of the third pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Next day the team decided to head on down.  So… you know what is coming right?

BAIL OF THE DAY!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  The Salathe is seeing some action but not much.  This is a good time to head on over to that mega-classic route.  Here we see a climber leading the chimney above the Hollow flake.  This is the spot you want to exit the chimney and not climb higher as it thins out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14)  I spotted this team high on the Headwall of the Salathe yesterday afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15)  Spectacular weather is shows the Captain in its best lighting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Other routes that are being done are Lurking Fear, Kaos, Dihedral, and Bad Seed and I will be posting shots of them shortly.

So that’s the way it is on this last day of September, 2022.

Capt. Tom