ElCap Report 9/30/12

ElCap Report 9/30/12
By Tom Evans

Yo… The masses have assembled on the Big Trades, even though the weather remains warm and dry.  The Nose is loaded but the line is moving.  Zodiac is not far behind with three teams and a solo.  So this just might be the time to get out here and start working on that tic list!
The Facelift ends today with a dinner and the usual raffles.  It has been a great week and zillions of climbers have come out to support the event.  We have seen a lot of them passing by and hanging out at the Bridge.

Today’s ElCap Report …written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The two guys who blasted off the deck yesterday bivied at the BT ledge and were doing the Nipple as I departed.  The leader took a little whipper early in the lead and unfortunately I missed the in-air shot.
1)  Leader checking his pants for dodo after his plunge!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down another two man team climbed from the top of 4 and were starting the BT as I departed.  Another drab team, who didn’t make the report shots.

Lower yet, Alice Ng climbed the third this afternoon in some stout heat, while another two man team came up the direct start.  
2)  Alice talking to ascending climber at the 2nd belay on the route, after fixing to three.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  Tom and Kenny are high on the route now and were just entering the long corner leading past the Harding Roof when I departed.
3)  Kenny hauling while Tom cleans this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Tom leading toward the start of the dihedrals heading to the HR.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Genesis/ND:  Jon and Pete climbed off in mid afternoon after a long time on the route.  I think Jon has to fly tomorrow so they need to hustle down this evening.
5)  Jon jugging the line to the start of the last pitch, this morning, as Pete assembles the Show for its’ last hurrah!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Pete lowering out part of the kit while Jon hauls to the top of the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  Several parties are strewn along the route, each a few hours apart.
The Drab Brother’s climbed past the GR after a bivy at Camp 4 last night.  They were heading into C5 when I departed.

Lower down the super-fashionable triad, from, yesterday climbed from ETC to Camp 4 while I was shooting.  Another drab team was below them.
7)  Looking good on the Boot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“8)  Look!  I think someone left a beer on over on Eagle Ledge!!”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Getting the helping hand across the KS this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A bagless team climbed from the deck to the Jardine this morning and into the afternoon.  Probably just an Eagle Ledge run.  
10)  “Dude, did you see my climbing shoes go by?””

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down yet a couple of teams were staging below Sickle and one team was dragging slowly along in the legs, light years away from Dolt.

Shield:  Fredrick and Ola, from Sweden, climbed from Gray Ledges to the start of the Roof pitch while I was shooting.  Should be nice shooting tomorrow.
11)  Hauling bags to the start of the Roof Pitch, on the Shield.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  Several teams were in the vicinity of Hollow Flake but none seemed to be hurrying to climb above there.
12)  Two climbers on Hollow Flake Ledge this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Lots of people at the Bridge today.  I never got so sit down all day.  Oli Warlow came back from his solo of the Trip and is looking for a partner for Mescalito… I recommend him highly, as he has proven to be a capable and safe climber.
So that’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 30th and last day of September, 2012.
Later, Tom

 

ND/Genesis Coverage

Hey Tom, Thanks for keeping my family and friends posted on our ascent of New Genesis. The route is full value and "not a kids route" with both scary and demanding free and aid pitches. The final pitch is probably 220 feet of climbing, including the pendo/back-cleaning. I really appreciate your dedication to the community and hope that more people contribute (listen up folks, this means $$$$$$ to keep the action flowing) to the excellent coverage you provide. Thanks again and I can't wait to shake your hand, my friend. Jon Fox
 
 

Go Alice Go!

Go Alice Go!

The Nipple

Whoo hoo - I took the same exact fall on The Nipple pitch. About 5 cam hooks out from the last good gear but proud to get straight back up there and do that pitch clean.

Thanks for the shots today

Thanks for the shots today Tom! Really enjoyed getting to spend some time at the bridge this week. - Travis

Drab brothers

No shots of the "drab brothers" today? Darn.....I was looking forward to it ALL day.

SWEET!

Thanks for the updates Tom. I look forward to this report every evening. Better than anything ever posted on supertopo.

Thanks as always from climbski

Every season I look forward to the reports and you never fail to deliver! Super appreciated! Miss your links on the Taco.. making me work for it lol