ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/30/15

By Tom Evans

Yo…Cloudy and humid weather continues to dominate the past few days.  Rain is in the forecast for the next several days so some teams are postponing their start.  However, it has not actually rained yet and several IAD teams have taken advantage of the cool conditions to race up the Cap.  Traditional wall style teams, high up, may get hosed later in the week… if you are starting a route be sure to get rain-geared up.

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

1)  Eagles Way:  Matt and Lance climbed up to the 5^th pitch and bivied last night.  This day started with some question about where the route went and a very threatening sky.  They were not rain-geared up, and in a waterfall zone, so they bailed for the time being.  Good move guys…. BUT….. still…well you know... “BAIL OF THE DAY!!”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Zodiac:  A mixed team fixed the first 4 today.  Here the woman is lowering out on a very severely back-cleaned roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Higher, she led past the section of the third pitch that many people find difficult enough to use a stick.  She cruised it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Trip:  The Austrian team of, Heli Putz, Rob Hakenberg, and Gunter Goebel, climbed the direct start to the fix the first 4 pitches.  Here Heli is leading to the start of the roof. They ended up bailing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Later in the day another team started fixing on the regular route.

5)  Over on the PO, Regan and Magda are getting high up on the route.  Here Regan is seen back cleaning on the pitch above the Black Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Mescalito:  Meg, the "Bug Girl", is moving along well and is seen here on the 7^th pitch.  Google “Bug Wall” to read more about her climb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  High on the route, the Italian/Swiss team finished the climb this afternoon.  Here, the best haul of any route… the last haul.. is in progress.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:

8)  Two NIAD teams stormed the route today.  The first, a mixed team, was way up the route when I arrived to start the days shooting.  Here they are in the Gray Bands, starting the pitch into Camp 4 while on the short fixing plan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  TOM'S SHOT OF THE DAY!!  Lower down, a two man team got a late start but moved well.  The second had some problem with the KS, a common thing these days, but a good grab, after several tries, got the job done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  High on the route, Greg Loniewski, and partner Tim Ward finished the 3D.  Here Greg is hauling kit at the end of the last pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe/Freerider:  Suddenly the most popular route on the wall, the Salathe/Freerider was loaded with climbers.

11)  YOSAR’s Alix Morris, lead the lower half of the route, while her partner, red hot Jim Reyonlds, got the upper half, on their SIAD.  Here she is on the chimney above Hollow Flake Ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Higher, Alix lead the long pitch above the Ear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  Dihedral:  I am really sorry for not having gotten out west in the past several days.  I have missed Lorna Illingworth and partner Hiroki Ide climbing on the wall.  I did get out there today to see them on the 16^th pitch.  Lorna leading, high on the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Never, Never, Land:  I did see Andy and Jacob fixing two on this relatively popular out west route.

Lurking Fear has several teams on it, including a solo woman and several wall style teams.  Everyone out west looked to be in good shape.

In other news:  Get ready for some big route action from Brits, Neil and Callum, as they head up the Sea of Dreams.  Also Regan is planning a 2^nd ascent of Atlantis, solo, when he is finished with the PO.  Other, yet undisclosed plans are in the works.

So that’s the way it is, on this gloomy but comfortable, Tuesday, the 29^th day of September, 2015.

Capt. Tom…your eye on the Cap.