ElCap Report 9/29/13

ElCap Report 9/29/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… It was another beautiful day here in big wall heaven.  Lots of interesting routes are getting attention.  The Nose is essentially empty now that the ladies are done … SETTING A NEW WOMAN’S SPEED RECORD, THIS MORNING!!  More about that below.  Many Bigs have shown up to climb on the Captain… Gerberding, Trotter, Caldwell, Leary, Smith-Gobat, Sharma, Cecil, Hillary, Harding…the list goes on!!  Do they know something you don’t?  Yes!!  They know that this is the time to get it on with the Captain…now, you know too!

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Mike climbed the Black Tower this morning and was seen later in the day climbing into the White Circle.

Mike, getting it done, on the Black Tower.




























Lower down Andrew Barnes climbed to the top of the 4th while I was shooting, and the girls took the day to organize kit.

Regan blasted on Kaos this morning… he has been lacking sleep of late and wants to do the climb to relax a bit, after his climb last month on the Great Trango Tower. 

Trip:  Some new dude is solo on the route, which has seen no action in several weeks.  Here is a shot of him on the 4th this afternoon.






























Atlantic Ocean Wall:  Mark Hudon and Max Jones blasted today on this seldom done, but spectacular route. 

Here is Max climbing the roof, just left of the ElCap Tree, with Mark tending the belay.



























This shot shows Max having hauled kit while Mark cleans the strenuous pitch.





























NA Wall:  The “Dark Dudes” climbed from Big Sur, across the traverse and into the Black Dihedral as the afternoon wore on.

Here they are climbing off Big Sur, up to the traverse.






























Sea of Dreams:  Simon and the boys are on easy street tonight and I expect to see them on the Hook or Book pitch, in the morning.

Here Simon, short fixing above the belay, is heading for Easy Street.






























Here he is again out on the vast sea of granite, waiting to haul the freight.





























Nose:  NEW WOMAN’S RECORD ON THE NOSE!!  Mayan Smith-Gobat, fresh off the mixed team record, with Sean Leary, of 4:22 two days ago, teamed with Libby Sauter, who sported a broken leg, tibia, on the climb, demolished the previous record by almost two hours this morning!!  Got the news on FB.. the girls crushed it...5 hours 39 minutes.  Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Libby, on the Boot Flake.  She led the block from the deck to the top of the Boot.  I got there as she started the Boot, so I don’t have shots of her leading below.






























Mayan did the King Swing in short order and is seen here on the Lynn Hill Traverse.






























Here we see Mayan doing some nice moves on the Great Roof.































The team, making quick work of the last pitch.






























Libby and Mayan on top!!!




























Muir:  Solo climber, Matt Farrell, climbed onto the start of the three pitches to Grey Ledges this afternoon.  He is out of view from where I shoot from most of the time so here is a random shot of him doing nothing much in the afternoon!





























Salathe:  The two guys, at the end of the line, climbed from the Block this morning and were on the Headwall early this afternoon when I got this shot.





























Horse Play:  Pete finished the beautiful corner and was climbing toward the Truck Stop when I shot this, a bit after 2pm.  I must say, Old Pete is looking good up there.  Vertical Camping… not for everyone, but works for him.































Lurking Fear:  I did spot the party from yesterday climbing across the traverse on the 7th but since I had a shot of the solo on it yesterday, I won’t put it here.

At the top of the 10th I think, I spotted the solo, Dave Brendgard this afternoon.  One reason I don’t shoot much on this route is that it is impossible to see above the 4th pitch from anywhere on earth.  So I downloaded this image from the Hubble Space Telescope, just to keep his family from going crazy!






























In other news: 

I talked with Sean Leary after his record mixed team climb and he told me that the Nose is getting littered with piss bottles.  Piss bottles are a good idea but not if you just leave them on the route… take them up with you or find a place to empty them that will not hose the route with urine.  He also commented that a lot of duct tape is showing up on the route.  He said that such measures are unnecessary as the edges on the Nose are rounded enough not to cause rope problems.  Your cooperation is greatly appreciated.

So that’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 29th of September, 2013.

Until next time…

Capt. Tom











Exciting times!

Great to meet you yesterday, Tom! Loved the shots of the girls busting the speed record!! I'll definitely stop by again when Cristiano and Brian head back up the Nose.

Really cool to see Max and

Really cool to see Max and Mark climbing together. And as always, thanks for the excellent news coverage...including the p.s.a. about piss bottles & duct tape..


wow, lots of action!. AO looks really cool. where are Bill and Adam???