ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/28/15

By Tom Evans

Yo… Cool and cloudy weather has moved into the Valley bringing a welcome respite from the heat of the past two weeks.  The Facelift is now history for another year, so the Fall climbing season is on!  Come on out and share the good times.  I did shoot a few shots, other than the rescue, of the Cap yesterday, but am just going forward with the report as the teams on the rock were most of the ones who appeared today.

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

1)  My camera rig, with ElCap in the background, this afternoon.  Actually cloudy days give the clearest photos as there are little if any shadows and you can see all the features in much greater detail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Eagles Way:  Matt Thomsen and Lance Lemkau have blasted on the route and were finishing the 5^th as I departed.  Here Matt is leading on the 2^nd pitch, earlier in the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Direct Start to the Trip?:  I did spot this climber late this afternoon, as he set up the belay on top of the first pitch.  Love that rock!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  PO Wall:  Last night Regan and Magda stayed on the Island in the Sky and this morning Magda lead the pitch off it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Mescalito:  The Italian/Swiss Team stayed last night at the top of the Bismarck formation, and were up and away early.  Here, they are looking to start the pitch to the Ship’s Bow, where they hope to spend their last night on the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Mescalito:  Lower down, Meg Curry, affectionately known as “The Bug Girl” hereabouts, blasted today after fixing the 1^st four pitches over the past few days.  She is attempting to solo the route while eating mostly insects.  Yep…insects!  Actually they are quite nutritious, being high in protein.  She hopes to demonstrate that aspect by doing this big solo climb.  Big Wall Kate and Chantel Astorga are the only two women to have soloed the route, so Meg has her work cut out for her.  I talked with her yesterday and was impressed by her strength and determination.  Here she is leading the 5^th pitch this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:

7)  The Nose is by far the most populous route as Damien and Jessie, pass a 3 man, wall style team, in the Gray Bands.  Hopefully the lower NIAD guy helped with the bag, stuck under the small overhang.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Later in the afternoon the 3 man team, mentioned above, was seen on the Great Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Higher on the route, the NIAD crew of Jessie and Damien, passed the 3D team of local legend, Greg Loniewski and his partner Tim Ward, on the dangerous and much maligned pitch into Camp 5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  This shot is of Greg leading the pitch to the Glowering Spot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  TOM'S SHOT OF THE DAY!!  Later in the afternoon, the NIAD team of Damien and Jessie, climbed into the Alcove, and were soon off the route with a very good time for the climb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  A couple of teams were active around the Hollow Flake on the Salathe route, but none moved very high.  Higher on the route this team worked on the Teflon corner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Several teams have arrived to do some interesting and photogenic routes on the Cap… stay tuned!

REMINDER:  You must package and take your solid human waste up the mountain and bring it down for proper disposal.  Some "mud falcons" have been floating down the past few days and those responsible will be ticketed and fined.  Please respect our local rules. If I see you tossing anything off the cliff I will report you to the authorities.

So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 28^th day of September, 2015.

Capt. Tom…remember…if it wasn’t for me…I wouldn’t be here!