ElCap Report 9/28/13

ElCap Report 9/28/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… It was an absolutely spectacular day here!  The Nose and Salathe saw most of the action today and most of the other routes were standard fare.  It is high season on El Capitan, so if you are coming to climb the big stone, now is the time.  I would go on and on with the usual spray but I have been slowly running out of energy these past few days and I sure need to get some rest.  So……

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

1)  Zodiac:  Mike was at the start of the Black Tower pitch as I left around 3pm today.  I assume he did that one, before he quit for the day.  This shot is of Mike finishing the Bolt Ladder pitch, earlier in the day.






























2)  Lower down, Andrew Barnes jugged to the top of his fixed line at the top of the second pitch.  I assume he hauled his kit to that belay.  Also on the route are Amanda Finn and Amber King, not the Amanda who introduced Scott Deputy to climbing, back in Missouri, much to the dismay of his parents, who thought he was throwing his life away!   Amanda is seen in the lead here, as Andrew ascends his rope to the right.






























Atlantic Ocean:   Old Timer’s, Mark Hudon and Max Jones, fixed to the start of the route today.  They were the shit, back in the day.

3)  NA Wall:  The “invisible team” made progress today and I was able to get a nice shot of their kit, from out west.  I think there is a climber with it!  No shirt is better than what they were wearing.





























4)  Sea of Dreams:  Simon and the two other Swiss are on the route now.  Simon climbed the pitch to the traverse where Chongo, staged is kit for a couple of years, hoping ElCap would erode down to that level, so he wouldn’t have to finish the route!  He bailed.  Here Simon is doing some interesting free moves to reach a placement.





























5)  The Nose:  The upper part of the route contained two teams, from yesterday, who climbed well today.  The first is seen here on the pitch into Camp 5.





























6)  A second team member is seen finishing the “changing corners” pitch.  I can’t seem to recall when and why those 4 bolts were added, when the original route traversed into the infamous corner at the horizontal crack, lower in the picture.  Anyone know?






























Lower down there was a bail fest, with one team reaching ECT before bailing and a couple more throwing in the towel low in the Legs.  I think there was a surviving team heading above Dolt, as I departed.  Sad really, as the conditions don’t get any better than they are right now.

7)  Muir:  Solo climber, Matt Farrell, was spotted, with his kit, hauling to Mammoth Terrace this afternoon.  Now this lad knows how to dress!!!  BEST DRESSED CLIMBER OF THE DAY!!!!






























Salathe:  The mob that advanced up the route yesterday, congregated in the vicinity of the Roof pitch this afternoon.

8)  Here is the slower team, of two, pulling onto the Block.  This area is normally an oozing slime pit but the extremely dry conditions this year have made it much nicer.





























9)  Here is a three person team leaving Suis le Toit ledge this morning, as the light came on them.





























10)  This shot shows them on the upper part of the Headwall.  Long ledge is above and right of them.





























11)  Horse Play:  Pete was on the move this afternoon when I shot him in that beautiful corner he entered yesterday.





























12)  Lurking Fear:  I did spot a team of three climbing the window pane flake this afternoon.  Higher, I took this shot of David Brendgard, cleaning the traversing 7th pitch.  He looks to be going strong, and since he has gotten that far there is an excellent that he will climb the route!


























In other news:  My friend, Tom Cecil, from Seneca Rocks Mountain Guides, at Seneca Rocks, in “West by God Virginia”, stopped by with some friends, after climbing the West Face of the Leaning Tower, over several days this past week.  Great to see him again, after many years.  I started lead climbing there back in the 60’s and dearly love the place!  Climbing Ranger Ben Doyle stopped by and renewed his friendship with Tom, having known him from other climbing venues. 

Marek Raganowicz, aka Regan, fresh from his climb of the Great Trango Tower, showed up yesterday and is going to solo Kaos for some relaxation! 

The Facelift is drawing to a close now, with fewer pounds of trash collected, than other years.  A sure sign that all the previous efforts have been highly successful!  Many thanks to, “The Man”, Ken Yager, and all those who helped in the effort.

So that’s the way it is, for this Saturday, the 28th day of September, 2013.

Otta here… Capt. Tom





Tom, it's 'West, by God, Virginia'.

First class reporting. Thanks

First class reporting. Thanks Tom!

Lurking Fear

Nice shot!! Thank you from his Mom and I! I talked to him last night and all's going well. He's in no rush, just enjoying being on the route and taking it all in. He's guessing 4 more days weather and water permitting. We've been married 5 months as of the 27th (after proposing beneath Lembert Dome last year), and this is my first time actually getting to see him in action on a very big wall. Stellar - thanks again!C Hope your son had a good birthday - just 1 year younger than David. Enjoy the day! - Diana

Tom Cecil

Tom Cecil...now there's a name from the past! I met Tom briefly on the summit of Seneca in July of 89, while we were both guiding. During our conversation we discovered that we had both climbed the Triple Direct the month before. Small world.